That's pretty low boost. Is it turbo response, fuelling or wastegate settings stopping you getting to 20?
OM606 Thread/Info/Discussion (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter fjdiesel
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That's pretty low boost. Is it turbo response, fuelling or wastegate settings stopping you getting to 20?
Ya, I think you are right on them not being offered in the US. I saw one that was imported and it was a pretty good deal relative to the OM606's I've seen available lately.
there are some that are being imported Mercedes-Benz OM605 Turbo Diesel Engine | Benz Injection - https://www.benzinjection.com/product-page/mercedes-benz-om605-turbo-diesel-engine also the om602 takes well to mods too. I have a OM602 stroker at the shop right now, just going back in to a car though.
Holset have outline maps only.
The HX30 with 6cm housing and 44mm intake is similar size and flow to the He221 6cm. But the HX30 is heavier so will be a little less responsive.
The HE221 is a turbo built for high boost (40psi) and it trades off compressor efficiency to do that.
If you don't need more than ~25psi boost then the TD04HL-19T turbos will give you good response and better efficiency.
@Dougal we have been looking into the TD04HL-19T you suggested. I am still learning turbos, but it looks to me it wont support the air flow the 606 is capable of due to it revving higher than most diesels (6, even 7,000+ rpm. Not that that's where we would be using them most, but some of us like to have fun 
). Running 25 PSI gives us a pressure ratio of 2.7. It looks like we would be choking out the turbo at about 530 cfm, which we hit just before 5,000 rpm. Long ways to go after that. Will running higher rpms cause the turbo to overspeed or other issues or just a reduction in efficiency?
I am also looking at getting one for a 1HZ-T build and it looks about perfect for that engine at 12-15 PSI (1.8-2 pressure ratio) and generally maxing out around 350-400 cfm.
Correct me if I am wrong, but the best option for obtaining one would be to build one off of an easier to find 16T and swapping to an aftermarket compressor wheel and housing? As far as we can tell, the 19T is rare here in the states and only came on the '00 volvo S70R. Not interested in a complete aftermarket chinesium whirlyboi, but an aftermarket compressor wheel and housing on an OEM turbine and CHRA may be amenable.
). Running 25 PSI gives us a pressure ratio of 2.7. It looks like we would be choking out the turbo at about 530 cfm, which we hit just before 5,000 rpm. Long ways to go after that. Will running higher rpms cause the turbo to overspeed or other issues or just a reduction in efficiency?I am also looking at getting one for a 1HZ-T build and it looks about perfect for that engine at 12-15 PSI (1.8-2 pressure ratio) and generally maxing out around 350-400 cfm.
Correct me if I am wrong, but the best option for obtaining one would be to build one off of an easier to find 16T and swapping to an aftermarket compressor wheel and housing? As far as we can tell, the 19T is rare here in the states and only came on the '00 volvo S70R. Not interested in a complete aftermarket chinesium whirlyboi, but an aftermarket compressor wheel and housing on an OEM turbine and CHRA may be amenable.
@Dougal we have been looking into the TD04HL-19T you suggested. I am still learning turbos, but it looks to me it wont support the air flow the 606 is capable of due to it revving higher than most diesels (6, even 7,000+ rpm. Not that that's where we would be using them most, but some of us like to have fun
I am also looking at getting one for a 1HZ-T build and it looks about perfect for that engine at 12-15 PSI (1.8-2 pressure ratio) and generally maxing out around 350-400 cfm.
Correct me if I am wrong, but the best option for obtaining one would be to build one off of an easier to find 16T and swapping to an aftermarket compressor wheel and housing? As far as we can tell, the 19T is rare here in the states and only came on the '00 volvo S70R. Not interested in a complete aftermarket chinesium whirlyboi, but an aftermarket compressor wheel and housing on an OEM turbine and CHRA may be amenable.
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What VE are you using for your calculations?
75%, this is what I have seen some people use for the 606 but I am not familiar enough to say how accurate that is. 3 liter displacement.
If you want max boost across the whole rpm range you're going to need compound turbos. There's a big thread on 4BTswaps where I worked through all of that maybe 8 years ago now. I can't find it right now.
Here's a thread where I've back-calculated stock boost, fuel, VE and BSFC: OM606 stock boost and fuel? - https://www.4btswaps.com/threads/om606-stock-boost-and-fuel.80218/
I don't have any maps or numbers but I've driven a 606 car with a HE250 6CM and it's a great pairing, nearly 0 lag even with a manual transmission, only Slightly chokes at high RPM, works better then HE221 (he221 is quite good) . I'm going to try an 8CM he250 on my 1HD-T
Does anyone have wheel dimensions for those? I can calculate turbine CCF (basically turbine flow size) and compressor max flow and max rpm from that. Can't predict surge line but I can compare sizing easily then with all the other turbos.
turbine inducer: 59mm exducer 49mm
compressor inducer 69mm exducer 50mm
That's a big turbo. I think you've got compressor inducer/exducer around the wrong way.
Turbine CCF comes out around 17 lb/min (similar to a TD05H with 9cm housing).
Compressor should flow around 46 lb/min.
Max rpm will be around 140,000.
Alright Dougal it seems like you enjoy math challenges. What do you think about this freakinstein?!
Turbonator® VGT S300 & S400 Turbos | T3 & T4 - https://www.dieselpowersource.com/turbonator-vgt-s300-s400-turbos-t3-t4/
Turbonator® VGT Housing fits S300/S400 T3 & T4 - https://www.dieselpowersource.com/turbonator-vgt-housing-for-s300-s400-t3-t4/
I was curious about a VGT to keep as much low end grunt as possible but not as complex as compounds. This sure looks enticing but I'm trying to figure out if all of their options are too much for the 606. The pneumatic VGT is interesting that it can range the ar from .4 to 1.01 while maintaining a 1.1 exhaust to boost. But seeing as it has 3 positions for the stator positions, Im trying to get a turbo map(s) from them right now to see more info. Some cummins forum guys said they really like them.
Turbonator® VGT S300 & S400 Turbos | T3 & T4 - https://www.dieselpowersource.com/turbonator-vgt-s300-s400-turbos-t3-t4/
Turbonator® VGT Housing fits S300/S400 T3 & T4 - https://www.dieselpowersource.com/turbonator-vgt-housing-for-s300-s400-t3-t4/
I was curious about a VGT to keep as much low end grunt as possible but not as complex as compounds. This sure looks enticing but I'm trying to figure out if all of their options are too much for the 606. The pneumatic VGT is interesting that it can range the ar from .4 to 1.01 while maintaining a 1.1 exhaust to boost. But seeing as it has 3 positions for the stator positions, Im trying to get a turbo map(s) from them right now to see more info. Some cummins forum guys said they really like them.
VNT/VGT turbos are less efficient than fixed geometry turbos. The big challenge isn't changing the size of the turbine side, it's having a compressor that can run the same range without surging or choking.
But those turbos are basically twice the size you need for a 3 litre diesel.
The 1:1 exhaust/intake ratio is a myth. The turbine drive pressure constantly varies and temperature is the biggest factor. Because turbines feed off energy and the hotter they are the less pressure they need to run.
Even my old T25 with a 0.49 A/R exhaust housing can run below 1;1 if I keep the rpm below 2000 and the EGT above 650C.
But at 2000rpm cruise (400C egt) it runs 1.5:1.
Thanks for the in-depth response sir. I guess that goes back to the whole "if it's too good to be true" saying. I'm trying to soak up as much real-world experience and knowledge as fast as I can. If you have any good reading or video material I'd appreciate the suggestions.
So then are there any twin scrolls that are worth it for the 400-450 range that also have an early spool. I've seen the HX351 recommended. Or is it more worth it to go the compound route. Which has been harder to find more detailed info on. I can't even make an account on STD anymore. I'm trying to keep enough air flowing low end to keep soot down and hp up.
The only way to get power that high and driveability is compounds. Otherwise it would be a dyno queen with nothing but smoke until an uncontrolled burst to max rpm.
Don't write off the other engines in this family, just got this om602 back on the road for a customer. Original 2.5L 5cyl motor bored and stroked to 2.9L they did this from the factory in other parts of the world mostly in vans/trucks. Very cost effective to rebuild even with the stroker parts. Running HE221w 7CM and 6mm pump very good usable low RPM power and 0 smoke. Feels like it would move a cruiser or 4runner down the road quite well. Shares same bell-housing pattern as om606 so all the adapters out there or 722.6 will fit.
![IMG_20240926_1226289[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_20240926_1226289-1-jpg.3744967/ "IMG_20240926_1226289[1].jpg")
On the topic of stroking, there is a 3.5L variation of the OM603 that used a different crank to increase stroke over the regular 3.0L. My understanding is this crank, along with new rods and pistons can be used to stroke the 606 to 3.5L. I probably won't be doing this off the bat, but will definitely be looking at it down the road as my engine is on the higher end for mileage and would like to rebuild anyways.
Isn't that the one nicknamed "rodbender"?
