OM606 Thread/Info/Discussion

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Dougal said:
Isn't that the one nicknamed "rodbender"?
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yes and i basically remade a 5cyl version of that but with hbeam rods and a MLS headgasket. there is documentation to suggest that the head gasket was the issue and it has been updated but still a fiber gasket. i used an om605 headgasket and had it bored out to 90mm by a waterjet cutter. i used to work at the Mercedes dealer and the rod bender problems are very real, just bends the rod ever so slightly and starts burning oil. the factory rods have been updated several times getting thicker each time. the later om602 direct injection engine in europe all got the newest best rods but i wasnt able to find anyfor sale so i had custom rods made. i made more then i needed but i'm sold out.

DirtSniffer said:
On the topic of stroking, there is a 3.5L variation of the OM603 that used a different crank to increase stroke over the regular 3.0L. My understanding is this crank, along with new rods and pistons can be used to stroke the 606 to 3.5L. I probably won't be doing this off the bat, but will definitely be looking at it down the road as my engine is on the higher end for mileage and would like to rebuild anyways.
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yes you can make a stoker with the 606, can make a 3.3l or 3.5l depending on what pistons you want to use. i have a post earlier in this thread about making one with the stock pistons. The 606 does take some work to get it to work right and have a correct compression ratio. You can also use the om613 or om648 crank and have less of a stroker but way easier (i think) dieselpumpuk used to have the rods for sale to make that work maybe they still do.
 
TheBussman said:
yes and i basically remade a 5cyl version of that but with hbeam rods and a MLS headgasket. there is documentation to suggest that the head gasket was the issue and it has been updated but still a fiber gasket. i used an om605 headgasket and had it bored out to 90mm by a waterjet cutter. i used to work at the Mercedes dealer and the rod bender problems are very real, just bends the rod ever so slightly and starts burning oil. the factory rods have been updated several times getting thicker each time. the later om602 direct injection engine in europe all got the newest best rods but i wasnt able to find anyfor sale so i had custom rods made. i made more then i needed but i'm sold out.


yes you can make a stoker with the 606, can make a 3.3l or 3.5l depending on what pistons you want to use. i have a post earlier in this thread about making one with the stock pistons. The 606 does take some work to get it to work right and have a correct compression ratio. You can also use the om613 or om648 crank and have less of a stroker but way easier (i think) dieselpumpuk used to have the rods for sale to make that work maybe they still do.
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Had a feeling the 3.5 was already discussed, was too lazy to look back. Definitely something I'd want to do.
 
LandCruisinMy93 said:
I did a 606 swap into an 80 series, anothernord followed in suit, we have another on here I'm talking with doing one. I have a dpuk r150f adapter set, new unused with bellhousing and other parts if anyone is interested. Also an old 603 mechanical pump...unmolested, still has the ALDA cap.
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little late on this but still got the pump?
 
Anyone try the OM648? It was only in the US for 2005-2006 and was a common rail engine or CDI. I'm working on a deal to get one with 90,000 miles but it's coming from a front end collision car. Owner is a Benz repair shop owner that I befriended 24 years ago. Still...I have this nagging feeling the back of my neck. Says he drove it off the low boy when the previous owner left it with him and he was going to power a Chris Craft boat with it. Decided to rebuild the stock flathead. I'm overseas, hard to see it first hand. Rambling.
 
6806goats said:
Anyone try the OM648? It was only in the US for 2005-2006 and was a common rail engine or CDI. I'm working on a deal to get one with 90,000 miles but it's coming from a front end collision car. Owner is a Benz repair shop owner that I befriended 24 years ago. Still...I have this nagging feeling the back of my neck. Says he drove it off the low boy when the previous owner left it with him and he was going to power a Chris Craft boat with it. Decided to rebuild the stock flathead. I'm overseas, hard to see it first hand. Rambling.
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648 would be cool, but would be limited to an edc pump and I believe there is a lot more electric parts on a 648 than just the pump so you would probably want the whole donor or it could get confusing and expensive. I believe there is at least one standalone controller out there for it. Mechanical pump and no electronics was a big draw for me to the 606for swap simplicity. Don't quote me but I believe the engine side bell housing bolt pattern is the same, I see some 606 adapters also say they work for the 648. It's already rear sump. Slightly larger displacement at 3.2L. Crank could be swapped to a 606, but if going that far I'd do the 3.5 603 crank.
 
6806goats said:
Anyone try the OM648? It was only in the US for 2005-2006 and was a common rail engine or CDI. I'm working on a deal to get one with 90,000 miles but it's coming from a front end collision car. Owner is a Benz repair shop owner that I befriended 24 years ago. Still...I have this nagging feeling the back of my neck. Says he drove it off the low boy when the previous owner left it with him and he was going to power a Chris Craft boat with it. Decided to rebuild the stock flathead. I'm overseas, hard to see it first hand. Rambling.
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anothernord says he was going to put one in his 80 after he took the 606 out. a little more wiring but it should be great as would the 612, and 646
 
DirtSniffer said:
648 would be cool, but would be limited to an edc pump and I believe there is a lot more electric parts on a 648 than just the pump so you would probably want the whole donor or it could get confusing and expensive. I believe there is at least one standalone controller out there for it. Mechanical pump and no electronics was a big draw for me to the 606for swap simplicity. Don't quote me but I believe the engine side bell housing bolt pattern is the same, I see some 606 adapters also say they work for the 648. It's already rear sump. Slightly larger displacement at 3.2L. Crank could be swapped to a 606, but if going that far I'd do the 3.5 603 crank.
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The om648 is a "bit more" wiring than the om606, but not too bad if you got the engine with the engine wiring harness. There are a few different ECUs you could use for the om648, some are just the stock ECU with the immobilizer and some other things programmed out. Or you can get one that is completely stand alone and give you ability for tuning as you build your engine with different turbo, larger injectors and HPFP. The bellhousing for the om648 is different from the om606, it's a bit larger to fit the bigger torque converter on the om648. The om647 and om606 bolt patter however are the same. I'm also in the process of swapping my om606 out for an om648 ( Fj62 ), and an om617 to om647 ( Fj40 ).
 
I am in need of the Mercedes plug that goes into the Nag1/722 transmission with as much wire on it that I can get. Let me know if anyone has one. Thanks.
 
I haven't tested it as a compound but I've run both turbos as singles and seems like it would work well and cost effective. He221 6cm with he300 9cm (there are a TON of different he300 versions) external wastegate helping to move even more exhaust gas around the he221 internal gate can flow.


The he221 is great, I can't imagine anything spooling any faster and handles high boost but chokes at RPM and will float stock valves when pushed. The he300 that I was using had the same compressor as a he250 but a much larger turbine diameter. Hits hard at 3300RPM and did not choke at all up to redline, no valve float with stock springs despite higher boost.


The he300 is a bit smaller then the hx35 or hx40 and should make packaging easier. I wish I had more numbers for you. Might be in rod bending territory with compounds though if you haven't already upgraded.

now that you have DSL1 you can monitor/datalog back pressure would help tune in the small turbo wastegates(s)
 
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@TheBussman Just curious about using the stock 606 turbo as the smaller in a compound setup??? I would think it must be close in size to the He221..
 
fjdiesel said:
@TheBussman Just curious about using the stock 606 turbo as the smaller in a compound setup??? I would think it must be close in size to the He221..
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Yea that could work, it's almost exactly the same size. you can use DSL1 to control the vacuum wastegate on that turbo. The he221 might have an edge with newer wheel design I'm not sure, seems like that can make higher boost numbers but that's not as important if its compounded. You could use the stock exhaust manifold and add a external gate port to it somewhere in the middle. I've welded that manifold with sucess before. May not be the best flowing but it would work.
 
The HE221 is a turbo that trades off efficiency for high boost capacity. If you're only running ~30psi a MHI TD04HL-19T will do the same job with higher efficiency. Which means less drive pressure for the same boost.
 
Dougal said:
The HE221 is a turbo that trades off efficiency for high boost capacity. If you're only running ~30psi a MHI TD04HL-19T will do the same job with higher efficiency. Which means less drive pressure for the same boost.
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Would that hold true in a compound setup as well? Use the tdo4hl-19t for the smaller/first turbo?
 
@Dougal I have a td04hl-19t on hand. I also have a Borg Warner s252. Here are the specs for that. Would that work for the secondary turbo?

  • BorgWarner s200sx-e (s252)
    • Model: 12709095019
    • Forged milled (billet) compressor wheels with extended tip technology
    • Compressor cover integrated speed sensor port and pre-machined boost port
    • 1/4"NPT oil inlet
    • Oil drain is the standard T3-T4 with M8x1.25 threads
    • Compressor: 52.17mm inducer 69.5mm exducer FMW Forged Milled Wheel (Billet)
    • Turbine: 61mm exducer, 70mm inducer turbine wheel
 
fjdiesel said:
@Dougal I have a td04hl-19t on hand. I also have a Borg Warner s252. Here are the specs for that. Would that work for the secondary turbo?

  • BorgWarner s200sx-e (s252)
    • Model: 12709095019
    • Forged milled (billet) compressor wheels with extended tip technology
    • Compressor cover integrated speed sensor port and pre-machined boost port
    • 1/4"NPT oil inlet
    • Oil drain is the standard T3-T4 with M8x1.25 threads
    • Compressor: 52.17mm inducer 69.5mm exducer FMW Forged Milled Wheel (Billet)
    • Turbine: 61mm exducer, 70mm inducer turbine wheel
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You'll need a bigger compressor. Around 56mm inducer to get the required air-flow. I'd need more info to check the turbine size.
 
@Dougal I see they offer this style turbo in many configurations. And they don't seem too bad of a price if one would work for the bigger one.

agpturbo.com

Borg Warner S256sx S200sx 56/61 177268

AGP Turbochargers, Inc. founded 2002, best pricing and service for all your Borg Warner, Precision, and Garrett Turbos. Including installation parts such as flanges, gaskets, tubing, and silicone.
agpturbo.com agpturbo.com
 
fjdiesel said:
@Dougal I see they offer this style turbo in many configurations. And they don't seem too bad of a price if one would work for the bigger one.

agpturbo.com

Borg Warner S256sx S200sx 56/61 177268

AGP Turbochargers, Inc. founded 2002, best pricing and service for all your Borg Warner, Precision, and Garrett Turbos. Including installation parts such as flanges, gaskets, tubing, and silicone.
agpturbo.com agpturbo.com
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I've got that one listed as the S200SX. With the 0.83 A/R turbine housing it will be comparable turbine flow to a Holset HX35/40-12cm. With the 1.22 housing it will be similar to a HX35/40 with 18cm.

Everything else scales in the middle.
 
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