Older than dirt - refreshing a ‘64 FJ40 FST (1 Viewer)

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You'll notice a huge difference with those new bushings, I did in my 40. Did you replace the spring pin bushings? And if so what magical tool did you use to get the old pins out? Come on, I'm counting on someone like you with eons of experience in coming up with a better solution than fire and chemicals and the BFH. There has to be a mechanical tool for this. Has to be. Has to be. Has to be. Are we in Kansas anymore?

Cut off the head and nut. Carefully climb up a 20' ladder with the spring, then drop the spring pack onto an old concrete pad. Then hammer out the remaining center pin with a BFH and find all of the scattered leaves. A trick is to paint one end of the spring pack before it explodes, this makes orientation of the re-assembly easier. HTH John
 
I'm counting on someone like you with eons of experience in coming up with a better solution than fire and chemicals and the BFH.
No fire involved. But I did use chemicals, BFH, BF pipe wrench, several big punches, a bench vice that is not mounted to the bench, forged tire irons, big wrenches wedged in as other pry bars... You get the picture.
 
Cut off the head and nut. Carefully climb up a 20' ladder with the spring, then drop the spring pack onto an old concrete pad. Then hammer out the remaining center pin with a BFH and find all of the scattered leaves. A trick is to paint one end of the spring pack before it explodes, this makes orientation of the re-assembly easier. HTH John

No doubt you watched Clevis Bungeecord do this in a YouTube video.:hillbilly:
 
No doubt you watched Clevis Bungeecord do this in a YouTube video.:hillbilly:
But in re-reading the tech help request, my reply was for info regarding spring pack center pin removal, sorry about that. @middlecalf in a week when you get to removal of the spring pack center bolts, please re-read post #380, Glad to be of service, John
 
Carefully climb up a 20' ladder with the spring...
Dang I only have an 18-ft ladder. Oh well.

My spring packs are nicely rusted, er patina’ed, together. No need to take them apart, nature has worked wonders on them. :hillbilly:

@oregon fj I suspected I have the same magical mechanical tool(s) you have for this job. Keep up the great progress, almost there:bounce:. BTW, what does the bottom of a rabbit hole look like?
 
BTW, what does the bottom of a rabbit hole look like?
Unsurprisingly, much the same as the top of the rabbit hole. The main differences are the parts-to-order list is a lot shorter, and my wallet is a lot thinner. :confused:
 
i thought he was talking about shackle pins. if so, i just burn the bushings out.
 
Another (small) milestone today. I drilled out what I believe were the final 2 broken bolts. These were classic ones, I expect—2 of the right fender mount bolts just below the battery. I _think_ that's all. I know there are no more in the tub, and I've pretty much been through the whole frame now.

Speaking of the tub, some progress there too.

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Picking away at stuff while the body is off. Kind of a scatter/shotgun approach. "What parts should I clean/restore today?"

Almost done with restoring the inside mirror.

Before:

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Today:

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First sign of color! Only on the underside so far, and much of it is hard to get good pictures of. No portable parts in new color yet, so I haven't been able to take it into the daylight outside. But so far, I'm thrilled!

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BTW - Yes, I know the blue on the vertical supports isn't "correct" for my early truck. That was a touch that the body/paint people talked me into trying. I agreed, knowing that fixing that is trivial as long as the tub is off. But so far, I like it. Gives a really clean look.
 
Well, bearing in mind that we can't trust color chips scanned and posted on the Internet to be 100% accurate, I believe that page 472 chip D1 from the ColorMap book of Akzo Nobel (parent company to Sikkens, Utech and Wanda paints) truly IS T-431 River Blue. It matches the printed images, and Akzo Nobel's database still cross-references T-431 to 472/D1. I think this is truly it. It doesn't matter what lighting I compare it in, it matches quite well. I'm very happy with it.

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Well, bearing in mind that we can't trust color chips scanned and posted on the Internet to be 100% accurate, I believe that page 472 chip D1 from the ColorMap book of Akzo Nobel (parent company to Sikkens, Utech and Wanda paints) truly IS T-431 River Blue. It matches the printed images, and Akzo Nobel's database still cross-references T-431 to 472/D1. I think this is truly it. It doesn't matter what lighting I compare it in, it matches quite well. I'm very happy with it.

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Where did you find the ColorMap book or access their database?

Thanks!
 
@Bad Mojo - Physical ColorMap book should be available at any paint jobber that sells one of the Akzo Nobel family - Sikkens, Wanda, UTech and others.

But the physical book is just page after page of chip samples, with no reference to what may match a given original paint. For that you need the computer database.

But that is available online at MIXIT

Select OEM, not Standard Collection or Fleet. Then enter search terms. For vintage Toyota codes, enter T-431 as TOY431. That will pull up the entry for River Blue.

To be perfectly honest though, I may have been phenomenally lucky in that I was looking for River. None of the other codes I punched in give any results. :frown:
 
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Have new shackle bushings in 3 of the 4 springs now, will finish the last one either tomorrow or Tuesday.
Finished with the last spring today, all new bushings on each corner. Continuing with the cleaning and refreshing. Trans and t-case linkages next, then will clean and reinstall the rear wiring harness.
 
Here's more stuff I can't do anything with yet. New soft top from Julie (Anchor Stitch), the supplier @Trollhole was using before he turned it all over to Julie. Really nice looking piece of kit. Wish I could do something with it...

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...because it won't fit on this.

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