Older than dirt - refreshing a ‘64 FJ40 FST (1 Viewer)

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That's a cool color. When doing my research on Toyota colors, I found that they used the same basic color pallet from the USA cars of the same era. I have cheated in the past when unable to find a color mix, I go with American version and its way easier to find.

Example below: Left Column is Toyota, right is American. Some are closer than others. I cheated on my 1976 Spring Green rig, and used the General Motors version and mix... I thought it actually looked better... :)

color compare.JPG
 
It's not a bad color, but not what I was aiming at. Looks more like that Subaru Crosstrek color, just a bit too purple. Too modern looking, not really vintage. I think we'll give it another go.
 
That's a cool color. When doing my research on Toyota colors, I found that they used the same basic color pallet from the USA cars of the same era. I have cheated in the past when unable to find a color mix, I go with American version and its way easier to find.

Example below: Left Column is Toyota, right is American. Some are closer than others. I cheated on my 1976 Spring Green rig, and used the General Motors version and mix... I thought it actually looked better... :)

color-compare-jpg.1752516
It's interesting to note that to my eye, all the Toyota colors have a touch more yellow in them than the GM alternatives. The Toyota yellow is more saturated, and the other colors are a bit more muted by the additional yellow in them compared to the GM colors.
 
You have a great eye
 
You have a great eye
Perhaps. That same 'eye' for color is what has me stopped at this point. The color we tried is a pretty cool color, and would probably look fine on the rig. But to my 'eye' (and my wife's eye as well) it looks too modern, not like a true vintage color. So still hunting.

I tend to get fussy on stuff like this, as an example it took 8 tries before I got the results I was happy with on the sill sticker project. I'm hoping to get this color nailed down in a lot less tries than that.
 
Hope you don't have to strip the vehicle and repaint any of those 8 tries...
 
Hope you don't have to strip the vehicle and repaint any of those 8 tries...
That was a bit of a fear of mine as well. Both painter and the paint jobber have assured me that a second color, maybe even a third is not going to be a problem.

After visiting the jobber with my wife today, we narrowed in on a better match to what we think we were looking for. And then the owner came by, and noticed that my printed notes had a Toyota paint code. He said that most old codes don't come up in his computer cross references, but gave it a try anyway. And when he punched it in, the answer was "River Blue, Toyota, '64-65". It referenced a slightly different chip in the color book than we had gone to, but that chip looked even better to us, so we went with it. Will probably not have anything to show until next week. But I have high hopes.

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Finally! This has bugged me since the day I bought the rig. Still have to get it all attached, but that's minor. Kevin's work (@Awl_TEQ) is fantastic!

Before:

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After:

IMG_1215.jpg
 
You plan on riveting or bolting that bad boy on?
 
After thinking about this new frame rail a bit, I think this may be even more significant an accomplishment than I first thought. I believe this is the last of the fixes for all the indignities the original owner inflicted on this truck. It might be all downhill from here.
 
I’m interested in what you find and use. @65swb45 has mentioned button head screws iirc in another post. I’ve been looking but haven’t committed. I definitely need load bearing, that rear rail probably does also especially if towing. I don’t like the square plug going into round hole in steel, maybe ok structurally?
 
I’m interested in what you find and use. @65swb45 has mentioned button head screws iirc in another post. I’ve been looking but haven’t committed. I definitely need load bearing, that rear rail probably does also especially if towing. I don’t like the square plug going into round hole in steel, maybe ok structurally?
I looked at button head, but didn't want to have to fill an Allen or torx head before painting. Easier to smooth the head of a carriage bolt. I used a triangle file to square up the holes a bit for a better fit.

Grade 8 are not normally available at the big box stores. I got mine at a local fastener shop. Can also buy them online:

5/16-18 Carriage Bolts Hot Dipped Grade 8-Fastener Warehouse

Carriage bolts, Grade 8 steel plain finish, 5/16"-18 x 1" - Bolt Depot
 
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Nice channel!
Yes, it is. Kevin's part is the only one I found with the recesses in the top where the rivets go. All the holes are exactly where they should be, and the ones that had captive nuts originally have them in his part as well, with correct metric threads. Much heavier gauge metal, too.
 
Wow, I didn’t even know this part existed.

As if the quality of the part wasn’t news enough, there’s more!

I think it is safe to say you have found the bottom of the rabbit hole! Your chances of seeing daylight again are now much more certain.
 
Wow, I didn’t even know this part existed.
It didn't exist until now. I reached out to Kevin and provided copious amounts of measurements, he did the magic. Now that the first one has been field tested, he can turn these out on demand. This one is correct for '61-67. He should have most of what is needed to do the '68-only and '69-73 rear rails too. Contact him about those.

I think it is safe to say you have found the bottom of the rabbit hole! Your chances of seeing daylight again are now much more certain.
Yeah, it's looking like that might be true. No guarantees yet, but maybe...
 
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Slow going at the body/paint shop. The welder who started working on the floors and rockers didn't come in the second half of the week. Work is progressing on the other parts, but not much on the tub yet.

In the meanwhile, I've been working to finish out the work on the parts I still have in the garage. Cleaning and painting the frame and other parts. Tried to re-install the transmission and t-case, but the replacement clutch disc I got is bad, the splines are not properly machined. So I'm waiting on a replacement disc to finish that up. Have new shackle bushings in 3 of the 4 springs now, will finish the last one either tomorrow or Tuesday.
 
You'll notice a huge difference with those new bushings, I did in my 40. Did you replace the spring pin bushings? And if so what magical tool did you use to get the old pins out? Come on, I'm counting on someone like you with eons of experience in coming up with a better solution than fire and chemicals and the BFH. There has to be a mechanical tool for this. Has to be. Has to be. Has to be. Are we in Kansas anymore?
 

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