Older than dirt - refreshing a ‘64 FJ40 FST

[63cruiser]

As i understand it, if your wheel cylinders are OEM and a smooth bore, then you may want to rebuild them. Cruiser outfitters has the kits..and you can save quite few dollars and still have OE parts.

Question for the masses, can the tin cups be installed on the newer master cylinders to give a old school look?

 

[oregon fj]

As i understand it, if your wheel cylinders are OEM and a smooth bore, then you may want to rebuild them. Cruiser outfitters has the kits..and you can save quite few dollars and still have OE parts.

Very true. But moisture contamination generally settles to the lowest point, which is the wheel cylinders. Judging from the condition of the bores of my master cylinders, I don’t expect my wheel cylinders to be rebuildable.

Question for the masses, can the tin cups be installed on the newer master cylinders to give a old school look?

Yes, in some cases. Or so I have read. It depends on how the new master cylinder is made. If the reservoir is attached via hollow bolt like the tin cups are, they can be retrofitted. Some aftermarket cylinders may use other methods, though. I don’t know what I’m getting from the original owner, so not sure yet if I will be able to reuse my tin cups or not. I’d like to.

 

[oregon fj]

Master cylinders were brought by today, neither are correct. Will need to buy a pair instead. That being the case, will try to find cylinders that will accept the tin cups. Might as well try to maintain the vintage look.

 

[oregon fj]

On a different front, I drained the coolant and pulled the t-stat housing today to see if it was salvageable. Once again I marveled at the methods the original owner used to “fix” things. What a mess.

And then again I was pleased to see that the Toyota parts are better than one would expect. I fully expected to find the two halves of the t-stat housing to be badly rusted or corroded, and maybe the water opening in the head as well. Instead all those parts look great once I clean up the mess from before.

This means the cooling system issue becomes a simple refresh, not a major parts pit. Hoses, and t-stat with gaskets.

The aftermarket heater was plumbed to replace the bypass hose, don’t think that is correct or how I want to do it later. The lower rad hose has the heater fitting in it, but capped off. I assume the other preferred heater connection is on the head, but I don’t see any likely suspects. Where should that go?

 

[oregon fj]

Cleaned up nicely, good sealing surfaces.

 

[oregon fj]

One down, one still to go. No, not concours re-plated, but OK for a driver level refresh.

 

[oregon fj]

Of course, while the truck still has lots of its original bits, there are - unsurprisingly - things that are missing. I’ve been compiling a list as I identify them. While plenty of them are easy to find (tail lights, for example), here are the ones I’ve noted so far that may be tougher.

1. Switch for Vader light (have cheap/ugly/broken replacement)
2. Ashtray (original crumbled from rust)
3. Hood spar/spear/ornament (original cut in two pieces by original owner)
4. Running boards (missing)
5. Complete driver’s seat and brackets (replaced by home made brackets and later seat by original owner)

Re-visiting and updating this list, as of today. Updated 7/5//18

• Switch for Vader light - installed
• Ashtray (original crumbled from rust) - installed
• Hood spar/spear/ornament - Installed
• Running boards (missing) - in hand
• Complete driver’s seat and brackets - Installed
• Soft top frame bows - in hand
• Rear frame cross rail and diagonal supports - Installed
• Trailer lighting socket & bracket - wired for this, but no longer looking
• Inside mirror - in hand
• Battery hold-down long side - built one

I think that covers the harder to find bits. Plenty of other stuff that I know I can get.

 

[oregon fj]

Looking ahead - anyone know of a source for a replacement heater fan switch like this? The rheostat coil inside mine is destroyed. Doesn’t need to be exact, similar look and function would be fine.

 

[oregon fj]

Waiting for new parts to arrive to go with these.

 

[65swb45]

I’ve got plenty of ashtray Arne. $40, and I can toss it in with your current order.

 

[oregon fj]

I’ve got plenty of ashtray Arne. $40, and I can toss it in with your current order.

Let’s save it for the next order, Mark. I’m way over budget for January already.

 

[hdjtachtig]

Looking ahead - anyone know of a source for a replacement heater fan switch like this? The rheostat coil inside mine is destroyed. Doesn’t need to be exact, similar look and function would be fine.

I bought a new one on eBay a couple of years ago. There were plenty for sale back then at different sellers.

Edit: I bought one like this: Vintage Heater Switch HOT or RAT ROD BUS TRUCK Universal GOLF CART - Retro 6 V | eBay

 

[cppilot]

One on eBay now....vintage Bakelite under dash heater switch.

Regards
Mark

 

[middlecalf]

What heater do you have?

 

[oregon fj]

I don’t know what brand it is, but it’s a fairly standard aftermarket heater. You can see it and the switch dangling in the picture below. It has no defroster ducting, which is to be expected I figure as my FST has no defroster ducts anyway.

It was hooked up rather goofy, someone simply removed the bypass hose and connected the heater hoses in its place. No valve, so hot coolant would flow into the heater all the time, and they apparently just used the fan to regulate the amount of heat. When I put it back in, I will want to do it right - connect to the T-fitting in the lower radiator hose, and add a nipple on the head. I will adapt some sort of valve as well.

 

[oregon fj]

Thanks for the Ebay links, folks. I ordered one just now.

 

[middlecalf]

That’s a sharp looking switch, just wondering where the resistor for variable speed should reside. Your unit looks like what I’m putting in my ‘63 (Hupp model 356) that has a single wire for power with no built-in resistor. My ‘65 factory optioned heater has the resistor at the fan unit (2 speed) so uses a 2-speed switch. I’ll be curious how that switch works, might have to chase one down myself. Which fuse terminal you going to use?

 

[oregon fj]

That’s a sharp looking switch, just wondering where the resistor for variable speed should reside. Your unit looks like what I’m putting in my ‘63 (Hupp model 356) that has a single wire for power with no built-in resistor. My ‘65 factory optioned heater has the resistor at the fan unit (2 speed) so uses a 2-speed switch. I’ll be curious how that switch works, might have to chase one down myself. Which fuse terminal you going to use?

@middlecalf - The switch I have (and the new one coming) are variable speed rheostat switches. They use a resistance coil inside the switch. They are also lighted. See this picture, look inside and you can see the coil. In my original switch the coil is damaged and broken.

The switch just has two connections. The supply (marked ‘B’ for Battery) and the output to the blower fan (marked ‘M’ for Motor). The output connects to the single wire on the heater, the supply to the fuse box.

In my rig, I have replaced the original 5 circuit fuse box with the later 6 circuit unit. So I have an extra fuse marked Spare that I intend to use for the heater. I’m going to try to remove the current lettering from the fuse cover and relabel it to match the labels on the 5 fuse unit, plus label the Spare fuse as Heater.

 

[oregon fj]

I hate waiting for parts. Seems so non-productive. So I end up doing non-essentials, just to kill time. Today, cleaning and relabeling the knobs and switches.

 

[cppilot]

Arne, I have a re-made sticker for your heater. I had a heater like that in my 64 FJ40 FST that I sold. I still have some left over and your welcome to one....

Regards
Mark