Ol' Blue, my 68' fj40 project (3 Viewers)

[2fpower]

A small compressor like that just will not work to do what you want. They cannot produce the CFM needed to run your tools. Sandblasting and DA's take a ton of air. And the cheaper tool you purchase, the more air they take.



My first "big" tool purchase was a sears crapsman 3/4 hp compressor when I was 14 years old. It blew up before my first FIAT was restored a few years later. Next, I had a 3hp 220 volt "blackmax" that I got almost 20 years ago at Sams club. Many times I had a box fan sitting next to it trying to keep it cooled down from running so much. Well, it is still going today, and I run it when I sandblast to help keep the CFM up. YES, it takes that much air!

I finally got an Eaton compressor, and have been pretty happy with it. 5 year warranty was the big selling point. They have had to mail me a few sets of gauges over the years, but it still goes strong.

So, I would say at a minimum, get a 220 volt larger compressor, 3 hp.

Best would be to find a mildly used one on C-list or from someone on MUD.

Remember that you want this to work for a long time, so do your research.

 

[blanch77]

Great stuff - You pretty much told me everything I unfortunately thought you were going to say. I wish they weren't such amazing machines, then I wouldn't HAVE to have one.

So ... onwards with searching - I appreciate the insight much!

 

[2fpower]

after three weeks stuck in the office, got out to the garage this am and tore off the intake/exhaust manifold. Found bad news on the exhaust leak. It was not on the heat diverter thing, the exhaust leak is coming from the intake exhaust manifold connection.

The issue appears to be that there has been too much deteriation of the metal on the exhaust manifold. It is not flat and true, to the point if I chinch down the three bolts, it skews the exhaust manifold at the back side about 1/4 inch such that it will not go on the head studs. Even then, it appears to still have a couple small gaps.

So, the questions I have that are possible solutions, is to put some sort of delete there, and likely grind off some of the surface of the intake to make room for the hardware of said delete. I don't like welding on cast iron, so that is out for me.

Second is find someone that can hone that surface flat. It is not that easy to get to the surface, so this seems like a longshot.

Finally, find some headers that work with the 3 on the tree linkages. These appear to be in the way unless the back three cylinders piping come forward to center, then go down and back.

Thoughts?

 

[CrowleyFJ40]

I have a header on my spare F in the garage. I'll see if I can't dig it out enough to get you a pic of them. If they will work for you they're yours if you want to go that route.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

From my recollection of F engine header assemblies.. there are or were 2 main varieties.. 6 into one and 3 into 2/1 style. I am of NO help other than any machine shop should be able to mill that thing flat. I'd take it into a shop, have them weld it up building material then mill it flat and mate the 2 pieces for you. YOur going for the resto look and want it all original... I think if you go headers your going to lose your oil canister and other cool retro things on the truck.
I'd take them an intake manifold gasket and the gasket between the intake and exhaust. They can weld that hold for the heat riser at the same time. They'll probably preheat the material and use the proper stick welding material to build it up. It's been 15 years since i took a welding class a Junior college so I'd have to do some research on that but different sticks are for different materials.

That's what I'd do.. turn it over to a professional welder/machine shop. Choose your battles! While i know you like to do everything yourself you don't wanna dork this!

 

[2fpower]

Ok, good advice. Now I need a machine shop reccomendation.

Just to set my limits..... Sorry Charles, not going to your engine rebuilder!

 

[CrowleyFJ40]

We use Speed Shop at work. I'll ask one of the machinists if that's something up their alley if you want?

 

[2fpower]

That sounds great; however, my only concern with milling down the surface is that the more you mill it down you have to then double up the gasket, which is a problem waiting to happen. If you don't double up, then it won't line up on the bolts correctly to the head. I like the idea of welding up the hole somehow flush with the surface that exists. Then I can bolt them up again with the existing gasket and not care if it does not line up exactly.


I posted up in the 40 section too to get any other ideas. I just read up on the different header options, and it appears that jt has a header that works with the old oil cartridge, just need to replace the hard lines with stainless, so that is my second option.

 

[ccasteel]

Ok, good advice. Now I need a machine shop reccomendation.

Just to set my limits..... Sorry Charles, not going to your engine rebuilder!

That's a good call. The place to avoid is John's Machine shop in Olathe.

However, after dealing with him I got a few recommendations and ended up using Davis machine shop in Shawnee. It's in the same building as an O'reilly's at 61st and Nieman. They machined my intake and exhaust manifolds together to fix the missmatch I was dealing with.

FWIW, I would try to build it up and machine it smooth if it can be done. But if you're looking for options I have this header taking up space on my floor. Does it look like it might work?

 

[2fpower]

It may fit, but if you look at the head bolts on that engine, you will note the one on the front end. There is another on the very back. Well, on the f engine, it did not have that bolt. So, the word is that headers leak there pretty easily.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

I do not know, perhaps you havent heard but the bird is the word. What i was talking about is having them add material to avoid the double gasket thing. Worth asking a machine shop that can deal with cast. Any shop that deals with old iron should understand your issue.

 

[2fpower]

Here is pic of exhaust surface.

 

[CrowleyFJ40]

And just so I'm clear, if you can just get the hole filled/blocked off that's all you're after, or is your first preference to build it up and machine flat so it's useable again?

 

[2fpower]

I am good with either... however making it solid seems bulletproof.

 

[2fpower]

Carb rebuilt. last year, I found a rebuild kit brand new.... bought it just in case I need it...

 

[mwalls54]

Have you had a chance to swing by a machine shop? I might have a intake and exhaust combo from a late 60s f motor in the back of my garage. I will look when I go home next month.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

That would be great to look for one. The manifold was shuttled to blue springs and picked up and taken to independence then taken to a machinist. I never even saw the thing and rode in rush hour with it. It kept very quiet in the way back. Perhaps it knew it was to be tortured soon. Maybe on its return trip i will try to snap a pic of this elusive manifold that came for a visit.

 

[2fpower]

Quite a twisted web we weave.....

Thanks to Jenn, Erik, and Colin for all the taxi rides to get this done....

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

The elusive manifold arrives. And will soon depart

 

[2fpower]

Wow..... Wonder if it got warped with all that heat.... Find out soon enough...