Oil Sludge Now What?
- Thread starter landtoy80
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- Thread starter
- #22
Cary, should I go Delo or RotellaT syn?
Is Delo syn oil or is the bottle misleading?
I have been using RotellaT syn in the 80 but had strange oil consumption.
Sent in an UOA and switched to Delo 400 15w40 untill I get the results from the UOA.
I liked the RotellaT as it somehow sealed up my oil pan leaks.
THe rear main on the 3FE is leaking a little bit along with most every other seal in the motor.
Is Delo syn oil or is the bottle misleading?
I have been using RotellaT syn in the 80 but had strange oil consumption.
Sent in an UOA and switched to Delo 400 15w40 untill I get the results from the UOA.
I liked the RotellaT as it somehow sealed up my oil pan leaks.
THe rear main on the 3FE is leaking a little bit along with most every other seal in the motor.
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I'm gonna sneak over here with landtoy80 for a sec. I'm very curious to know what Cary recommends for our 62s and he never comes to visit us over in the 60 section. Cary, what do you say for landtoy80's and my 62 3FE? I've seen you recommend 0W40 for the early 80s with the 3FE? Might be a stupid question, but can we 62ers use it without worry?
Sorry if this seemed like a hijack, landtoy. I thought this could be resourceful to all.
Sorry if this seemed like a hijack, landtoy. I thought this could be resourceful to all.
My personal favorite oil is the Mobil 1 0w-40, there is no reason you can't run it in a 60 or 62, or 40 for that matter. It shouldn't be used in FJ-55s however. 
For people who have had consumption problems, the Shell Rotella 5w-40 has seemed to help. Also, the Mobil 1 5w-40 Truck and SUV may work well for trucks that drink oil at an accelerated rate. All three of these oils are good for 7500-10,000 mile change intervals and all climates.
The Delo is a great mineral oil and the 15w-40 is fine for use above 30f or so. Below that tempurature any good 5w-30 is fine. If you change your oil every 3,000-6,000 miles, there is no point in spending the extra on the synth, unless you have a turbo conversion or some other compelling reason.
My advice is to use one of the three above synthetics, change every 7,500-10,000 miles and spend the extra time you would have spent changeing oil on something else.
For people who have had consumption problems, the Shell Rotella 5w-40 has seemed to help. Also, the Mobil 1 5w-40 Truck and SUV may work well for trucks that drink oil at an accelerated rate. All three of these oils are good for 7500-10,000 mile change intervals and all climates.
The Delo is a great mineral oil and the 15w-40 is fine for use above 30f or so. Below that tempurature any good 5w-30 is fine. If you change your oil every 3,000-6,000 miles, there is no point in spending the extra on the synth, unless you have a turbo conversion or some other compelling reason.
My advice is to use one of the three above synthetics, change every 7,500-10,000 miles and spend the extra time you would have spent changeing oil on something else.
- Thread starter
- #25
I ran some Seafoam in the oil and it cleaned it up,,, some... Well, not tooo much but it was a tiny bit cleaner.
And yes, I cross post BUT there might be some 3fe 80's wanting this info
And yes, I cross post BUT there might be some 3fe 80's wanting this info
semlin
curmudgeon
yes you can eat off it now 
- Thread starter
- #28
IdahoDoug said:
My first one or the second one that I messed up?
I didn't send the last one in as I didn't drive the vehicle enough to burn off the startup gas off. I will have to wait another 3000 mi to do a UOA.
Cruiser Jimmy
Moderator
Kurt,
Hey thanks for keeping the post here so far. I'll in the same situation with my 3FE. I took the valve cover off to do a valve job and noticed the same condition in my engine.
Hey thanks for keeping the post here so far. I'll in the same situation with my 3FE. I took the valve cover off to do a valve job and noticed the same condition in my engine.
Landtoy, any plans to run AutoRX through it? I've never used it, but have heard good things. My oil is dirty as hell after only 1000 miles on my '88 3FE and I'm planning a treatment(maybe 2 and along with a Seafoam for the upper half). I haven't taken off the cover yet, but I know there's gotta be some sludge in there given the quality of my oil after only 1000 miles. I'm just curious if you have any thoughts or intentions on using AutoRX and seeing the results.
- Thread starter
- #31
I was thinking of AutoRX but I don't drive the 62 very much.
From what I read is the AutoRX works when its hot.
From what I read is the AutoRX works when its hot.
Anyword on your gunk problem?
$5 a bottle?RavenTai said:
A-RX's site is showing $24.97 per bottle?
http://auto-rx.com/cart/order.htm
Can that be right? In just over a year +$20!
$5 off.....not $5 cost.
tarbe said:
. . . right! Okay, so I wonder what RT paid . . . back then . . .
I used the autorx after doing my headgasket and seeing the carbon build up. Robbie cleaned up what he could but couldn't get at the ring packs. So I ran it per the instructions and I noticed an improvement between 0.5 and 1 MPG. My guess is the carbon was disolved outof the ring packs making less friction, but what the hell do I know.
Only way to know for sure is to crack it open and I am not going to do that. I spent weeks on bobistheoilguy.com and other places reading about and decided to pull the trigger. If nothing else, short of a rebuild, it was the only thing I could do to attack the crabon build up.
Only way to know for sure is to crack it open and I am not going to do that. I spent weeks on bobistheoilguy.com and other places reading about and decided to pull the trigger. If nothing else, short of a rebuild, it was the only thing I could do to attack the crabon build up.
Romer said:
The consensus is it improves compression by allowing the rings to seal better.
- Thread starter
- #38
I traded the sludgemobile for a Camry so my problem is solved.
As for freeing up rings...I had low compression on one or two cylinders on the 87 fj60.
I removed the sparkplugs and dumped SeaFoam and down the cylinder with low compression and let it sit over night. Turned the motor over (do this by hand as the SeaFoam will fly all over the place if you crank the motor) to remove the Seafoam and installed the plugs. Ran it and checked it and I had good compression in all cylinders.
The motor still didn't have much power. I installed a HEI dist and it helped alot but was still lacking.
Then all of the sudden it happened while driving, I felt a sudden surge of POWER.
After that the motor was strong and wasn't lacking in power.
I had stock gears with 33x9.5x15 tires. I could take off in 2nd gear and lug the motor down so the the 60 was almost stoped in 3rd gear and take off without the motor killing of even chuging.
I don't know what took place in the motor to give its power back but at least I didn't have to rebuild it.
As for freeing up rings...I had low compression on one or two cylinders on the 87 fj60.
I removed the sparkplugs and dumped SeaFoam and down the cylinder with low compression and let it sit over night. Turned the motor over (do this by hand as the SeaFoam will fly all over the place if you crank the motor) to remove the Seafoam and installed the plugs. Ran it and checked it and I had good compression in all cylinders.
The motor still didn't have much power. I installed a HEI dist and it helped alot but was still lacking.
Then all of the sudden it happened while driving, I felt a sudden surge of POWER.
After that the motor was strong and wasn't lacking in power.
I had stock gears with 33x9.5x15 tires. I could take off in 2nd gear and lug the motor down so the the 60 was almost stoped in 3rd gear and take off without the motor killing of even chuging.
I don't know what took place in the motor to give its power back but at least I didn't have to rebuild it.
how much seafoam did you pour in
