oil leak power steering?

[2001LC]

Circled in red, is your front drive shaft (AKA CV boot) inner boot outer clamp weeping. Looks like it needs reclamping. I use clamps from NAPA, about $2.50.


Wet look around ball joints doesn't necessarily signal bad.
To check ball joints:

 

[2001LC]

Wondering on HWY, if all else good, is likely rack mounting bushing.

Here two examples one has newer rack/bushing doesn't have cracks in rubber (hard to see), the other you can see the rubber of bushing are cracked. Yet both racks move side to side. So don't let movement be your only indicatator.




Also look to see if washer on top has turned a little off center. This is just one more indicator. ADD UP THE CLUES:

See how this washers flat sides are no longer parallel to rack. This indicates rubber is separating from steel sleeve.

These are old bushing next to some factory equivalent (Toyota does not sell)

In this link you'll see ploy
Steering rack / bushing opinions

You'll see me install the OE (rubbers) in The Unicorn starting at post #175. But that is with rack on the bench, very easy. I've not tried pressing in OE bushing while rack in the rig, it would be difficult.

 

[wretchedfred]

Thanks for the input. Ball joints look good. No movement when lifted and crow bar moving tire.
I do think it is the bushings. Check out video and pics.

There is also a whine when turning. Towards ends of the video you can hear it.

Let me know what you think

 

[wretchedfred]

Also, If there is anything else I should do while in there replacing bushings, let me know. Ill also fix boots at same time.
Looking at ordering whiteline poly bushings. Any other recommendations?

 

[2001LC]

Yeah wondering will benefit from refreshing bushing with Whiteline ploy.

Sound to me like vane pump whine, possibly air in system. I like M1 MV full synthetic ATF, it usually quites it down. I suggest flushing again front wheels/tires off ground and do not start engine. Do by method I linked you too earlier where you capture from return line. Make sure you hold at lock for 3 seconds at end of each full turn. It's also important to bleed if any air.

You can tell if air in system by turning steering back and forth (engine running) then look if any bubbling/foam is reservoir fluid.

Some sounds is ok, but you have to much. Get the sound sorted out first, just incase rack issue.

One more test:

With one tire on ground and other front off. Have helper grab tire thats off ground at 3 & 9 and rock/twist back and forth. Watch both TRE at same time to see if one moves in and out of rack (play) while other (on ground) is held stationary. If excessive the gears in rack may be shot, a little may be acceptable for age. If this happens get a second opinion by a good frontend man. In this case you'll be replacing the rack which has new bushings.

 

[wretchedfred]

So today I replaced bushings. Grateful for Air Hammer! The LC is better but there is still some play. Here is a video of the steering play with the front end off the ground. I turned wheel until there was some resistance on each side.

If the next step is the rack, what are your thoughts on new vs re-man? Found this for $460 re-man. Unless someone knows the best place to get a new one not too expensive.
Toyota Land Cruiser Steering Rack | $460.00–$540.00

Let me know what you think.

Thank you

 

[2001LC]

Rebuilds are a bit of a crap shoot. In that they may or may not come with good tight gears. New OEM is obvously the best, but pricey. Most, even Toyota Dealers, just go with rebuilt.

You've probably seen these other thread now running, but just in case you've not:
Steering Rack Cost
Troubleshooting the steering

Chasing rack issue is why most shop just replace if any issue, including leak or mounting bushings.

 

[amitbh234]

My 2008 LC also has weeping at the input steering shaft similar to @2001LC ’s post on the first page. Took it to a shop for a visual and the guys said I don’t need to worry about it at this point just keep an eye out on it.

I already exchanged the fluid with Valvoline Dexron ATF using the turkey master method and plan on exchanging fluid at every oil change. I’m wondering if I should add a little AT-205 as a preventative measure. I’ve kept an eye on the fluid level for the last month or so and the fluid level doesn’t move (only between the hot min and hot max levels like it is supposed to). Don’t want to introduce something that can ruin my rack or hoses but would like to prolong the life of my steering rack as much as possible.

Any recommendations? If I should add At-205 how should I go about adding it and how much? Just taking some fluid out and adding ~2oz to the reservoir?

 

[Rhetoric]

My 2008 LC also has weeping at the input steering shaft similar to @2001LC ’s post on the first page. Took it to a shop for a visual and the guys said I don’t need to worry about it at this point just keep an eye out on it.

I already exchanged the fluid with Valvoline Dexron ATF using the turkey master method and plan on exchanging fluid at every oil change. I’m wondering if I should add a little AT-205 as a preventative measure. I’ve kept an eye on the fluid level for the last month or so and the fluid level doesn’t move (only between the hot min and hot max levels like it is supposed to). Don’t want to introduce something that can ruin my rack or hoses but would like to prolong the life of my steering rack as much as possible.

Any recommendations? If I should add At-205 how should I go about adding it and how much? Just taking some fluid out and adding ~2oz to the reservoir?

You just add the AT205 to what you have. Don't remove any PS fluid.

I don't know what the 200 series PS system holds, but the 100 series holds 1 quart. So that's 1.5oz AT205.

 

[2001LC]

First, AT-205 is a plasticizer. Which all manufactures use in rubber seal. It replace what time leaches out. If gunk builds on seals, it leaches out faster, drying rubber seals.

If a leak is not noticeably lower reservoir, and not wetting/soaking rubber bushing of R&P (rack), LCA, diff, etc. It can be lived with. But if leaking at output and R&P bushing are shot. I replace the R&P.

Note: ATP AT-205 was a product of ATP. ATP made rubber seals and used AT-205 in their manufacturing of seals. They were bought by Mexican Co (IIRC). The tech support is no-longer direct to ATP engineer, but just a phone room tech support reading script. I was told, AT-205 is made for them by Suncor (Sub of Phips 66),. Some on the internet are says; it's not the same as old pre being bought-out (IDK). But seems to work the same. But neither the old Co or nor the new Co ATP AT-205, has worked for output shaft of R&P (TRE boots cover).


The 200 series power steering system holds 1 L (1.06 US qts.) of Dexron II or III. For which I use Mobile 1 MV ATF always.

I do like to flushing system, before adding 1.59 OZ of AT-205. Why, flush first with full synthetic ATF It helps clean the rubber seal, so they can absorber AT-205. Additionally, you've no idea what's fluids (types or brands) have been added over the years.

Also, if reservoirs internal screen is dirty/cologged or gunk in bottom of reservoir. I pull and clean or replace reservoir first. Which is great time to replace it's hoses, if they leak. Getting top side (reservoir and it's hose) service first. Is how I like to start diagnostic of power steering.

I posted the flush procedure for 200 series in the 200 tech section. It the same as 100 series. But I find messy to pour out reservoir, due to local.

Scored 2011 LC W/79K OMG CLEAN (2012 missing link)

Very good info in this thread. Thanks!

forum.ih8mud.com

100 series PS flush:

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

Over the years, I have streamlined and improved many procedures. But, don't always get the time to update or write up my stuff. Just to busy helping others. But basic are the same.