Scored 2011 LC W/79K OMG CLEAN (2012 missing link)

[Rigger]

Very good info in this thread. Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

Very good info in this thread. Thanks!

You're more than welcome, and thank you for saying so. I try to give useful info, and will answer any question to the best of my ability. Mud has been and is to this day so helpful to me, I'm just paying back/forward!

I'll add a little more about propeller shaft (PS).

I just use one grease in the shop (KISS) which is Mobil 1 chassis/wheel bearing grease which is a high speed grease. I do keeps some Lithium base chassis grease (NLGI No.1) and some moly fortified (moly is not good for high speed bearing) I picked up from Amsoil, around for difficult case where sticion is an issue (driveline clunk thunk)

Factory recommends we check torque of all bolts, and makes special mention of the bolts securing the PS flange bolts which torque is 65ft-lbf.

Factory has change how to lube the sleeve yoke (AKA slide yoke) in that they now state stop lubing when sleeve yoke begins to extend. I'd add to keep all 4 on the ground. This keeps rear PS in a neutral position which avoids over grease and causing to much hydraulic pressure.

With the LX it's nice to have a little extra room while under the vehicle, by raising to "H". That's fine, but then it best to temporarily remove grease fitting from sleeve yoke (AKA zerk) and lower the vehicle to expel excesses grease from the PS after lubing. Torque zerk to 3 to 5ft-lbf is all that is needed, do not over tighten zerk they break easily.

I'll get a nice steam of gears out when lowering with zerk removed, which can get messy.

Grease fitting torque ~3 to 5ft-lbf

Note: FSM states drive back and forth then wipe grease. This Optional and helps keep grease sling down. But it's not a big, grease will be slung onto exhaust a smell a bit until burned off.


This pic is from the 100 series, which is very similar except 200 is on driver side (DS).

From the 200 series FSM:
NOTICE:

Stop filling the grease fitting hole on the middle portion of the propeller shaft once the sliding portion starts extending.

(b) Drive the vehicle.

NOTICE:

Check the safety of the surrounding areas.

HINT:

Move the vehicle forward and in reverse 5 times and strongly apply the brake.

(c) Lift up the vehicle and wipe off any excess grease as a result of driving.
Rear

Front

 

[Tommy Dwyer]

Yes, as @Rigger said, great info and dialogue. Thanks for posting this up!

 

[2001LC]

Yes, as @Rigger said, great info and dialogue. Thanks for posting this up!

My pleasure.

Check this out, I just realized something.

I updated post #2 with pic of door plate showing 10/11 (Oct 2011) and update tile:

I'm looking in the FSM this morning and I just notice reference to some components a MFD of 08/11 - forward. The TIS shows 08/10 - 01/2012 (normally 200 series starts/ends in August) range for 2011. It then breaks the year up in some components to 08/10 -08/11 then adds the additional MFD date 08/11- forward. This is the missing 2012. The next entry is 2013 which has MFD date of 01/12-08/13 (normally MFD start would be Aug 2012)

Wow I've got a 2012

 

[2001LC]

I was looking for info on axle bushing when I noticed the above MFD date variance.

I'm looking for drive shaft bushing, because of this in the TIS FSM:

"From TIS FSM: general, maintenance, chassis 08/10-
8. LUBRICATE DRIVE SHAFT BUSHING

(a) Repack the drive shaft bushing with grease."

I know the axle bushing and needle bearing of the 100 series is often overlooked. In fact just found a virgin (never serviced) 00LX w/350K miles Lexus Dealership maintained all it's life. One sides needle bearing was burnt, which I R&R it.

But I can not find in any 200 series FSM this "drive shaft bushing". I assume it's between wheel bearing and front drive shaft (on back side of wheel bearing). But TIS does not link us to it, nor do I see any references to it other than in above maintenance reference section. Nor has mud search helped me?

Is this a misprint???



I started a sperate thread on this: Repack "Drive shaft bushing" with grease: where & what?

 

[KLF]

I'm curious how you got grease into the rear U-joint on the front driveshaft, the one by the output for the transfer case. The crossmember is really in the way. I tried a couple of different types of gun fittings, one on a stiff "pipe" and the other on a flexible hose. No dice. I had the truck up on stands so I was able to spin the shaft into any orientation, but I was unable to get the gun fitting on the zerk no matter what angle I tried.

I bought one of those "needle" type adapter fittings the other day, I'm gonna give it another go when my Amsoil shows up and I can do the diffs.

I'm also nervous about pumping any more grease into the slip joint zerks for both shafts, I'm not getting any extension action, and I've put probably 20-25 pumps into each joint.

 

[tbisaacs]

I'm curious how you got grease into the rear U-joint on the front driveshaft, the one by the output for the transfer case. The crossmember is really in the way. I tried a couple of different types of gun fittings, one on a stiff "pipe" and the other on a flexible hose. No dice. I had the truck up on stands so I was able to spin the shaft into any orientation, but I was unable to get the gun fitting on the zerk no matter what angle I tried.

I bought one of those "needle" type adapter fittings the other day, I'm gonna give it another go when my Amsoil shows up and I can do the diffs.

I'm also nervous about pumping any more grease into the slip joint zerks for both shafts, I'm not getting any extension action, and I've put probably 20-25 pumps into each joint.

Same question here. I have a needle-type fitting but haven't tried it yet.

 

[blatant]

My pleasure.

Check this out, I just realized something.

I updated post #2 with pic of door plate showing 10/11 (Oct 2011) and update tile:

I'm looking in the FSM this morning and I just notice reference to some components a MFD of 08/11 - forward. The TIS shows 08/10 - 01/2012 (normally 200 series starts/ends in August) range for 2011. It then breaks the year up in some components to 08/10 -08/11 then adds the additional MFD date 08/11- forward. This is the missing 2012. The next entry is 2013 which has MFD date of 01/12-08/13 (normally MFD start would be Aug 2012)

Wow I've got a 2012
View attachment 1799958

As many of your threads tend to be, this one is no exception, and is sure to be pegged as a go to reference thread.

Your statement of born on date got me thinking to check mine. 12/11! Cool Info.

 

[2001LC]

I'm curious how you got grease into the rear U-joint on the front driveshaft, the one by the output for the transfer case. The crossmember is really in the way. I tried a couple of different types of gun fittings, one on a stiff "pipe" and the other on a flexible hose. No dice. I had the truck up on stands so I was able to spin the shaft into any orientation, but I was unable to get the gun fitting on the zerk no matter what angle I tried.

I bought one of those "needle" type adapter fittings the other day, I'm gonna give it another go when my Amsoil shows up and I can do the diffs.

I'm also nervous about pumping any more grease into the slip joint zerks for both shafts, I'm not getting any extension action, and I've put probably 20-25 pumps into each joint.

Same question here. I have a needle-type fitting but haven't tried it yet.

The head on my flexible line coming off my grease gun has an OD of 13.65mm. I had all four on the ground to keep sleeve yoke in a neutral position. I had the zerk of the sleeve yoke pointed down, to get it first. Then I move the vehicle until zeak was face in towards the center of vehicle. I was going to pull heat shield as I'd done on @Emcd LX when I lube it. But I decided to wipe of grim from zerks and give a try without removing shielding or move vehicle again. It didn't look like I could, but sure enough I was able to get fitting of grease gun on the zerk. It was a very tight fit, but I caught the zerk in the blind. I was not sure I was on the zerk, until I saw grease follow from the universal seals.

FSM showing drawing of zeaks point at ground. This must have been drawn by same engineer "not required" to work on their creation. As there is no way I could get at that way.

By face zeaks in direction of arrows (center of vehicle) I was able to grease both spiders of front PS without removing shielding or rolling vehicle again (third time) as I've done in the pasted. I may have been just short of center line (parallel with ground), maybe angled 2 or 3 degrees towards the ground, hard to say. But I hit it first try!

I've found in the two 200 series and most of all the many 100 series I've done, I'll used a lot of grease in the yokes first time. Even in a Toyota Dealer maintained as they just don't get lube as often as they should and cravity is near dry. I typically use close to a whole full size tube of grease.

Until sleeve (slide) yoke begins to extend, I'm not concern with building too much pressure on transfer case or differentials. If vehicle on stands, in "H" with AHC or on lift I do remove the rear propeller shaft sleeve yoke zeak (after lubing) as I settle vehicle to the neutral stance on ground. I pull zerk also, if I've extended the yoke from building pressure while lubing. Note: with AHC I'll go ahead and drop to "L" with zerk out.

The front propeller shaft sleeve yoke only moves in and out just few mm, basic during shifting or hard acceleration under a load. I have pulled its zeak after lubing, but see very little if any grease flow out. I may get a little squirt just as pressure releases as I remove zerk. I've held foot on brake as I move shift to "D" and give some gas to move engine/trany/diff mounts then to "R" while holding brake on. I will get just a tiny bit more grease out port of zeak sometimes. So not worth the effort IMHO. Just removing the front zerk to release pressure if I've extended yoke is all that's needed.

If your worried about pumping in to much grease don't be. Just stop at first sign of extension of slide/sleeve yoke. Then remove the zerk and lower if not at neutral stance, drive forward and back hitting brakes hard or drive over the curb. You can also just bouch the rear of vehicle with your body weight. Anything that moves the rear shocks up and down will compress the rear propeller shaft and push grease out with grease fitting (zerk) removed.

In the 100 series I've used many techniques to lube over the years. Most involved getting grease to pass the seals, as was once recommend by Toyota. I've yet to damage any T-case or diff, but I do use care. I have sprung leak at a plate at rear of propeller shaft which allowed grease to pass, not all bad as has benefit of releasing pressure permanently. I say that, as Lexus shops once just drilled a hole in that plate to relieve pressure, to stop the driveline thunk/clunk from over pressure. We also get thunk/clunk from ungreased. It's a balance act.

As many of your threads tend to be, this one is no exception, and is sure to be pegged as a go to reference thread.

Your statement of born on date got me thinking to check mine. 12/11! Cool Info.

Thank you for say that. It lets me know I'm not wasting my time.

We've the missing link The 2012 has been found. Now if I could get title to agree!
I wonder why Toyota didn't just call these the 2012.

The more I look at the TIS the more entries I'm finding indicating a difference between pre and post August 2011. I've not yet drilled down and examined the difference.

 

[2001LC]

I always put a can of 44K in the gas tank on every rig I own. Could be snake oil, but I've been drinking the kool aid for years, as have most of the Toyota Dealer shop in Colorado.

Another first step is checking vacuum lines. Love it! It's first time all are looking very good.

Air filter replacement and air box cleaning was needed as usual.

 

[04UZJ100]

I always put a can of 44K in the gas tank on every rig I own. Could be snake oil, but I've been drinking the kool aid for years, as have most of the Toyota Dealer shop in Colorado.
View attachment 1800546
Another first step is checking vacuum lines. Love it! It's first time all are looking very good.
View attachment 1800545
Air filter replacement and air box cleaning was needed as usual.
View attachment 1800548 View attachment 1800547 View attachment 1800549

Does that BG stuff leave residual anywhere? Cats? Exhaust?

I have never used a detergent other than high quality gas on any of the trucks I own.

I still can’t feel or hear the idle in any of them and have no reason to believe anything could benefit from a liquid detergent. Thoughts?

 

[2001LC]

BG states will not hurt cats. High quality or pricy gas use more detergents, that's why they cost more, the gas from station to station in a given area is mostly the same. Techron is said to be very good stuff which is a Chevron product. Filling station with water or gunk in fuel tanks is another story altogether.

I had a spark plug frozen in a local muds 00LX I was working on. I didn't what to chance pulling in my shop and find threads damaged or bursting in head. I did nudge it and soak in penetrating oil, but it stopped rotating on me. I advised owner of the the 00LX to add some 44K to the tank, he did. I also recommend it be taken to Toyota Dealer who's see this stuff often. In speaking with mechanic that worked on, he was able to turn plug, with only a 3/8" socket wrench in one hand. But he stop also, as it started to bind feeling like aluminum causing binding to him. He (Toyota mechanic) told me they recommend to clients, when they find a spark plug(s) frozen in. That they: run two tanks of gas with 44K in each and then bring back. He said it will remove carbon from threased of plugs just as it does the valves and piston. So he's drinking the kool aid also.

44K is just one of the products on the market that cleans fuel system and decarbons. They don't hurt cats, or so they claim. But once I've run a tank through, I'll run at high RPM for ~5 minutes while driving down the HWY. I do this to heat heads & cats burning out any residue from combustion chamber to tail pipe just in case and as added benefit to cleaning out carbon. Like turning oven to auto clean.

Note: I do make sure I've good oil & filters before HWY high RPM run and I'm in tune with sound of engine. Don't want to blow it up!

 

[04UZJ100]

How long do you do your high rpm burn off for?

 

[2001LC]

Back to base lining:

I cleaned the battery along with cleaning and greasing battery terminals. While battery disconnected I clean the MAF sensor with CRC MAF spray cleaner and the Throttle body with a can of BG throttle body cleaner. I always disconnect the battery (negative first) before disconnecting MAF and end job with reconnecting battery (negative last) after MAF reconnected. Takes about 20 minutes, just enough time for ECM to reset.

Notice battery post looked dry, it was recently installed at/by NAPA. The white film you see is leftover from baking soda bath I give every battery, this neutralizes the acid. I see time and time again on old rigs where people apparently washed battery without baking soda bath first. The acid then wash down with the water on to the parts below. Then as water evaporates the acid remains and eats the paint and metal leading to rust.

After I'm finished with MAF sensor & Throttle body cleaning, I clean both battery posts & clamps and grease them up. Soon I'll run out of my old tube of White Lithium Grease and switch to the newer red stuff companies like CRC puts out. But really I'd use vaseline if I had nothing else to keep oxidation from building. If not greased oxidation builds increasing resistance and reducing amperage to and from battery.

Interesting Throttle body sets up at and angle, and has a screen behind the butterfly. We did that with a finer screen under carburetors to help atomize the fuel. I suppose this is to break up airflow.
Or is a rodent stopper... they do love our air boxes

MAF is just where we expect it to be just downstream of filter air on neck of air box.

How long do you do your high rpm burn off for?

~5 minutes more or less at around 4,500 to 4,800 RPM. I'll then shift back to "D" and let it cool down for ~5 minutes or more than do it again. I generally drive with a lite foot. But every so often I'll really stomp on the gas. This also is to blow out the carbon.

 

[Itsky]

Great thread!

 

[2001LC]

Great thread!

Thanks!

Power Steering flush is something I do a lot, the more often the better.

The 200 series is only slightly different than the 100 series. In that I could not tip the reservoir to pour out old fluid into a cup in 100 series, 200 series lacks the room.

So I used my large syringe to suck out fluid until below the return line (upper line). This allowed me to see the screen in the bottom of reservoir. It's important to inspect this screen making sure it's clean, which it was. If not spotless, reservoir should be removed and cleaned out. Once clean, it's only necessary to flush regularly and it will stay clean.

Lowering the level below return line allowed me to disconnect it from nipplr with minimal mess. I then attached a clear hose to return nipple of reservoir too plugged it off, so fluid will not run out nipple during the flush procedure. Next I attach my clear hose to the return line, running it to a catch can.

Now with front wheels/tires off the ground and engine off, I turn the steering wheel just a little. This pumps fluid out return line into my catch can emptying reservoir. I'm careful not to pump out to much at this point, as I don't what fluid level any lower than bottom of reservoir.

Alternately: Pour out the remaining ATF from reservoir return or suction (lower nipple) nipple to a drip pan place under the vehicle, skid plate off <of course>.

I'm ready to fill reservoir with fresh ATF, replace reservoir cap and flush. I like a second qts on hand for this 1 qts system, as I usually waste a 1/2 qts at least.

I then simply turn steering wheel lock (until stops) to lock holding at lock 3 seconds or more. This pumps out fluid at my pace, with engine off. I watch fluid color in my lines for clear fluid to single flush is done. I also watch level in reservoir making sure it does not empty. If reservoir empties, air get in system. Not a big deal as I'll bleed, but best not to run pump dry.

With light behind the clear hose that's running to my catch can, I can see color of fluid in it easily while turning the steering wheel. Seem about 1 1/2 slow turns of steering wheel empties the reservoir (IIRC). I add more ATF fluid to reservoir and keep flushing until it runs clear.

Once i see fluid is coming out clear, the flush is done.

Tip: Stop flushing or adding fluid with it just below return nipple, allows for less mess removing clear flushing hoses and reattaching return line before topping. Trick is to save just enough in the 1qt jug to top fluid up from below return nipple, about 1/3qt.

Here's my old fluid which you can see is brown and translucent, not the black I often see.
Really it look surprisingly good.

Next is bleeding and setting level.

 

[kms254]

Great post... As a new(to me) 200 owner I'm using your post as a guide to go through my vehicle. I'm new to this platform but not to wrenching. I am working at a much slower rate than you...

 

[2001LC]

Power steering bleeding:

I re-attach the lines and add ATF FLUID UNTIL AT MAX OF COLD LINE of reservoir. Remember always place hoses and their clamps in exact same position (orientation) as factory set them.

Bleeding begins with front wheels/tires off the ground. Simple turn the steering wheel slowly lock to lock 3 time minimum. Hold at lock each time for 3 seconds minium. Once this is done check level and add if necessary to bring up to cold max line.

Now lower vehicle, start engine and simple turn steering wheel slowly lock to lock 3 time again, hold at lock 3 seconds each time. If air is in system it will come out as bubbles which will often cause fluid in reservoir to foam. Repeat the until fluid has no bubbles/foam during or just after procedure.

Once this is done we also check level with engine running, then again with engine (vane pump stopped) off. We measure difference in the fluid level to see it does not change more than 5mm, if not repeat bleeding procedure.


Note: Vane pump is the proper name for a power steering pump.

Great post... As a new(to me) 200 owner I'm using your post as a guide to go through my vehicle. I'm new to this platform but not to wrenching. I am working at a much slower rate than you...

thank you for saying so. Glade it's helpful.

I find the 200 series takes longer to do most jobs. In parts it's learning the ins and outs of the 200, in parts tooling. But biggest parts is the engineers obviously didn't work on their design. 200 take longer for most job, even a simple oil & filter change. So take your time. I recommend oil & filter first than power steering, differential & transfer can wait. Coolant and transmission if not leaking, can wait until due if all else looks as good as this one.

 

[ZenCruiser]

Enjoyed reading your posts. I've finally found my 08 LC that came with some underbody rust - something I tried so hard avoid based on my previous experience with my FJ Cruiser. I nevertheless purchased mine because there were so few out there, especially one that was within driving distance in So Cal. I'd love to own an LC 200 that look half as lovely as yours underneath. And so I've been spending hours grinding off the excess rust, washing, priming, and painting, etc.

 

[2001LC]

Enjoyed reading your posts. I've finally found my 08 LC that came with some underbody rust - something I tried so hard avoid based on my previous experience with my FJ Cruiser. I nevertheless purchased mine because there were so few out there, especially one that was within driving distance in So Cal. I'd love to own an LC 200 that look half as lovely as yours underneath. And so I've been spending hours grinding off the excess rust, washing, priming, and painting, etc.

I'm glad you're enjoying!

I try and do something everyday, as I go down my list.

I'm surprised you didn't find a rust free in your area. Those rusty bolts/nuts/parts can work you hard..