Oil filter question

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kcjaz

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I had my oil changed right before LCDC and when I got back I noticed oil on the driveway. Its dripping from the oil filer housing and I'm wondering if that little o-ring got lost on the bolt or something else is just loose. I want to just pull the filter but not drain the oil. If I take the filer off without draining the oil first will I loose anymore oil than what is in the filer housing? It doesn't look that way but I want to make sure. Also, I have to at this point confess that I have never changed the oil on this truck myself. If I pull the bolt out to see if the o-ring is in there, will the oil filter housing drain? I don't think so but again I don't really know for sure. It looks like a new filter comes with plastic drain tube so that is why I'm thinking I can pull the bolt without draining the filter housing.
 
I had my oil changed right before LCDC and when I got back I noticed oil on the driveway. Its dripping from the oil filer housing and I'm wondering if that little o-ring got lost on the bolt or something else is just loose. I want to just pull the filter but not drain the oil. If I take the filer off without draining the oil first will I loose anymore oil than what is in the filer housing? It doesn't look that way but I want to make sure. Also, I have to at this point confess that I have never changed the oil on this truck myself. If I pull the bolt out to see if the o-ring is in there, will the oil filter housing drain? I don't think so but again I don't really know for sure. It looks like a new filter comes with plastic drain tube so that is why I'm thinking I can pull the bolt without draining the filter housing.
You can remove the bolt and no oil will lost. You need to insert the plastic drain tube in order to drain oil within the oil filter housing.
 
Above is correct.

Also, you can drop the filter and it will not drain the pan. If you drain the filter housing (need the plastic tool that comes with new filters to do so) into something very clean you can reuse that oil. Personally though for the trouble it is, I’d just top it up with fresh oil.

It is somewhat common to put the main housing cover oring into the wrong groove, but typically this shears the oring, and will cause a huge leak, so doesn’t seem likely for your situation.

A note about using the plastic filter drain tool: put the oring onto it before snapping it firmly into its spot on the filter housing cap. If you leave the oring in the groove and snap the tool in after it won’t seal well and will make a mess.
 
Above is correct.

Also, you can drop the filter and it will not drain the pan. If you drain the filter housing (need the plastic tool that comes with new filters to do so) into something very clean you can reuse that oil. Personally though for the trouble it is, I’d just top it up with fresh oil.

It is somewhat common to put the main housing cover oring into the wrong groove, but typically this shears the oring, and will cause a huge leak, so doesn’t seem likely for your situation.

A note about using the plastic filter drain tool: put the oring onto it before snapping it firmly into its spot on the filter housing cap. If you leave the oring in the groove and snap the tool in after it won’t seal well and will make a mess.
Thanks. If I’m willing to deal with the mess can I just take the filter housing off without draining it first? I don’t have a new filter kit. I’m about an hour from a Toyota dealer.
 
Thanks. If I’m willing to deal with the mess can I just take the filter housing off without draining it first? I don’t have a new filter kit. I’m about an hour from a Toyota dealer.
Draining will be better. Still messy as the drain plug is a mess to deal with already. Else, it will be more mess.
 
There are 2 o-rings: a smaller and larger one.

Given that you said you haven’t changed the oil before and you don’t have a new one, I would hold until you read an oil change visual (it’s on this site) and get a new filter set.
 
It will be a mess. An poorly trained "tech" at a dealership did that with mine last year because he didn't know to drain the housing before removal. Just be prepared with lots of shop towels and don't be under it if you don't drain first.
 
Go buy a filter at the auto parts store. Even if you don’t use the filter it’s worth the negligible cost to get the drain tool and orings.
 
I can never get the plastic drain tool inserted enough and End up having to hold it there with two fingers while it runs down my nitrile gloves. What’s the trick?>
 
That hose is crap. I believed the hype and got one. Super slow, even with hot oil, adds stuff to clean up, and when you use the original tool the right way it works great.

The trick is to push firmly. I haven’t used the tool that comes with aftermarket filters so can’t say whether the quality is the same, but for the OE toyota tool I just clean up the old oring, put it on the groove of the tool, line it up, and push hard on both sides with both hands and it pops right in and dumps all the oil out in 20-30 seconds. When it’s done, pull sideways against the end of it firmly and it’ll snap out. Removing it usually deforms it some but by then it has served its purpose. Bag it up with the old filter and toss it.
 
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I can never get the plastic drain tool inserted enough and End up having to hold it there with two fingers while it runs down my nitrile gloves. What’s the trick?>
Every time I've done my oil change the plastic thing threads into the bottom so I don't have to hold it..
 
Huh. I have one and love it. Works great. Maybe don't be so impatient? :p
Yeah, tell grass not to be so green.
I just feel most people haven’t been using the filter tool the correct way. When you figure it out there’s no point to the hose, and ultimately less to clean up. Also less tools to bring/clean if I have to change the oil in the middle of a trip.

And I’ve never threaded the tool in.. guess I can try and get a video the next time I do it.
 
I've got an oil/filter change in around 600 miles. What works well for me is an old champagne bottle. Not saying you'll lose zero oil, but it eliminates 90% of the mess.

After the filter drains, it get replaced by a new one with a drain valve and drain hose adapter.
 
So is the only point of the bolt with the small o-ring a means to drain the filter housing? I wish this was more like my boat with the cartridge filter up top and housing fliped so all you do is take the cap off and it can't spill plus drains itself to the oil pan. But then again, my boat can't make it to the T33 crash site or climb heart attack hill...
 
So is the only point of the bolt with the small o-ring a means to drain the filter housing?
Correct. And for a bit more detail, when you remove that smaller cover oil won’t start pouring out, maybe just a little. Above that is a check valve that holds the majority of the oil inside the filter housing. The drain tool pushes this valve open while giving it something of a funnel to make it flow out more cleanly.
 
Oil changes on a 200 suck. Period. Between the 15 skid plate bolts, cartridge filter, and access points, it’s a PITA. Wish they would have just kept screw on/off filters like the 2UZ instead of trying to appease the eco-freaks.
 
I prefer the filter type we have and it has nothing to do with ecological concerns. I can look at the filter element itself and see that it doesn’t have problems. The anti-drainback valve is built into the filter housing and not just a POS rubber flap.

The most annoying thing to me is draining the oil from the pan sometimes spraying on the lower control arm and subframe.

If this oil change takes me 30 minutes vs 20 I’ll take it to get a clear look at the filter and more confidence it won’t destroy my engine if something is wrong inside it.
 
And as for skid plate bolts.. literally the most game-changing tool I’ve ever bought:

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