Oil & Filter Change for LC200 (8 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Over hear on the surface of the sun regular oil changes are at 5k kms (3,100miles) and 10k (6,200miles) on full synthetic. If i spend those 10k kms on road the oil looks like it can take another 10k. If it's summer and ~45-50c (113-122f) temps and I do some desert driving at 10k the oil looks like s***.
If you're mall crawling you can push on oil changes, if you're towing, wheeling your cruiser stay on top of the oil it's relatively simple and cheap conpared to the havic it causes when it all goes south. Luckily as a yota engine it can handle a bit of rough treatment. With higher end german cars especially I've seen many engine swaps due to neglect and our severe weather
 
Are pictures showing now? I had an issue with the links and instead just uploaded them. Thank you for the suggestion about changing the oil with a 2.5k frequency. I'd rather be safe then sorry and in the grand scheme of things that is a cheaper solution for me than a major parts failure.
Yes, the pics are showing. How many miles on the car?
 
We're currently at 35k miles and picked it up with 31k. The dipstick was clean. I've not noticed a reduction in coolant levels, but can always get a tester just in case.
 
I agree with 89cruiserfj62. Looks like condensation accumulation due to too many short trips (engine doesn't get a chance to fully warm up). Clean the milky residue off the filler cap. If the oil that drained out looked more or less normal, you're most likely OK; take it out on the highway for a couple of longer trips (>30 minutes) and check again under the filler cap. If the oil that drained out was very thin/flowing like water, and looking like a chocolate milkshake, you had lots of water/coolant in your oil and that would be very bad news.
 
I agree with @marques . I had an 80 that had white stuff all over the inside of the oil cap. I used it to negotiate the price down, saying that it was a sure sign of a blown head gasket, but once it was cleaned off... it never came back. Yours is probably similar in that you just need to make sure a get that engine warmed up for most of your trips out.
 
I see it inside oil caps on tractors I store over the winter...it's just condensation as has been posted. I've never seen traces of moisture in the oil.

Steve
 
Thanks for the GREAT write-up! I changed the oil & oil filter on the 200 this morning with no problems (I have done it myself on many previous Toyota/Lexus vehicles). But, I found TWO issues: 1) The "small cover" that protects the drain plug was completely missing--the two bolts too! Damn lazy Toyota lube guys. The dealer WILL buy me a new one! 2) At 26K miles, most of the bolts holding the skid plate are rusting on the threads, so I smeared some anti-seize goop on the threads before re-installing them. At least they won't rust in place now.
 
The simple fact that there is a write-up on an oil change for a vehicle tells you that the procedure is more difficult than it needs to be.
 
The simple fact that there is a write-up on an oil change for a vehicle tells you that the procedure is more difficult than it needs to be.

While I didn't find the procedure to be difficult, it was time consuming, mostly due to the cartridge filter than anything else. What I didn't know prior to reading the first post in this thread was that only the front driver's side portion of the skid plate needed to be removed to access the filter--I had been ready to drop the entire skid plate, which would have been MUCH more work.

Two bananas!

Sometimes I think car companies make things more difficult than they need to be just so folks who aren't inclined to DIY will just take the vehicle to the dealer for service. As an example, my FJ-owning neighbor just refuses to change his own oil and even takes his FJ to some Jiffy Lube type of place for oil changes (shudder). Oh well.....
 
Last edited:
Sometimes I think car companies make things more difficult than they need to be just so folks who aren't inclined to DIY will just take the vehicle to the dealer for service.

Yep, Im convinced this is the case.

My problem is, I worked in a dealer service department long ago and have heard stories from other former dealer techs, and if I took it in to them to change, I just don't have the confidence that the oil would actually get changed! Well, maybe they would change the oil, but considering how hard the filter is to get to, I don't trust that they would change the filter. Call me cynical or whatever, but thats just me, and I wouldn't be able to sleep well at night, so I have to do it myself.

Anyway, I changed the oil in the 200 yesterday for the third time. I decided to buck up and get the special oil filter wrench. I bought one from the dealer thinking I was going to get a Toyota part, ($42!) then I realize its a cheap, made in China piece, and probably available elsewhere for half the price. I used it, but now Im going to return it. I also got one from Autozone for $10 that doesnt extend down around the little notches, not sure if it will work yet because I didnt have the right size socket with me to fit it. :bang:

Anyway, I replaced with the TRD filter and Mobil 1 5w-20 Extended Performance (rated to 15k), so I will not be going back in there for every bit of that 15k! :steer:

Its a 1 banana job as far as auto maintenance/repair, but as far as oil changes go, its the most ridiculous oil change procedure Ive ever performed on any vehicle. I just never thought a Toyota would be more difficult than European V8s.

Its my only qualm with the 200 though, other than that its about perfect. Of course, my '08 doesnt have those ginormous screens on the back of the seats. :D
 
We had a Lexus GX470 and the oil/filter change was MUCH easier. I know what you mean about dealer's service departments. A friend once worked at a Chevy service dept. The stories he told were horrific. The best story was an old man with an old car that was running poorly. He brought it in to be fixed. All that was needed were new spark plug wires & it ran perfectly. BUT, the dealer kept the car for 3 weeks, steam cleaned the engine & repainted it and THEN charged the old guy for an engine rebuild. They sure fixed him! Oh, they NEVER changed the oil filters--just wiped the dirt off the old ones so they looked new.
 
Last edited:
A bump to say thank you very much for the time on this write up.

couple questions:

Which filter wrench works best? the one the op uses or the other one referenced? The other one, or the first pic here seems like it'd be le

TF60-W-COMB_grande.jpg



OP
URJ200oilfilterchange21.jpg



Next question has to do with the aluminum housing vs the OEM plastic housing. How many of you have changed? I also thought i remember reading that a camry housing would fit, or something to that effect but couldn't find that. Anyone know the OEM replacement metal housing? Rock auto, in the link below shows several OEM replacement numbers.

917-016-007.jpg



Hello gentlemen,
One more recommendation based experience: replace the filter housing with aluminum housing.
More Information for DORMAN 917016

Many auto manufacturers have/are switching over to the cartridge type. I've heard it reduces waste, but I'm unconvinced on that. I think they just like to make things messier than they need to be. (I think the location of the oil drain plug supports that theory, though the fumoto valve resolved that issue nicely.)

On a side note, I've used this a few times for my oil filter changes and have been pleased with it (I now have two, keep one in the LC and one in my tool chest in the garage):

Toyota Lexus Scion Special Oil Filter Wrench Tool LARGE SIZE | ASR Parts

There's a link on the ASR website to the Tundra Solutions forum where I originally learned about it. I have no affiliation to ASR, just happy with their tool...


Another good link, with a vid.
My Video: Changing the Engine Oil in my 200 Series

Oil Analysis
My Blackstone oil analysis UOA
 
Last edited:
I swapped out the stock plastic one for the Toyota aluminum (P/N: 15620-31060) as part of my first oil change. All you need to do is swap the tube out with the stock one (takes about 30 seconds). I've replaced oil every 5K and have had no issues with the aluminum one. The ASR wrench is the only wrench I've used for all oil changes. Haven't had any issues with it or thought the experienced could be improved by another.
 
Info on the Toyota aluminum cap can be found at the link.

Aluminum Oil Filter Cap - durability

I have an improved version in testing right now... it solves a couple of issues.
 
It uses a large six point socket that will not get stuck or bite into the corners of the cap. The drain valve has been simplified, unscrew the plug and drain.... No valve to pop open to initiate the drain.... Though I'm testing another valve design that will be optional. The last part is a bit over the over the top, that is a precision filter bypass valve in place of the flat spring and disc, again, optional. Availability should be this month. Unlike the exhaust, I began testing this piece much earlier....
 
I use the AST wrench. I've had it for 6-7 years and changed oil filters on several different Toyota & Lexus vehicles with it. It seems to work fine for me, but it will get stuck if it's cocked a bit--just a tap with a plastic hammer & it pops off. I've read some stories on the web that on really tight filter housings (tightened by a dealer's gorilla) that those forks tend to spread apart & slip off the housing on the other wrench. Now, that's just hearsay, as I haven't experienced it personally--may be just an urban legend.
 
Thanks for the great write up and pictures of the oil change process!!! I have a Fumoto question... Will the Fumoto value with a nipple fit inside the skidplate? I noticed the OP did not use the nipple design, I have Fumoto values on other vehicles and the nipple makes it really easy to bend the drain hose wherever you want it to go... Less Mess... fewer burns...
 
I have one of the Fumoto valves with the nipple and it does indeed fit with the cover. All I have to do for the oil change if I am not changing out the filter is remove the little plate and turn the valve.
 
+1. I have the Fumoto Valve F-103N and it fits with no issues.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom