Oil & Filter Change for LC200 (2 Viewers)

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Fumoto Valve w/nipple on my ARB skid equipped no problem fwiw.
 
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The only time I've seen gunk like this on the inside of the oil filler cap was when I had coolant mixed with the oil. That was on my '67 Saab 96 V4 and the cause was a cracked block allowing coolant to migrate to the oil.

There are test kits available to test motor oil for coolant contamination - it might be worthwhile to test your oil.

HTH

Thought I'd update since the last time...

After the oil change in January there was no longer any foam. I checked about one or twice every other month. Because of this I decided to do the oil change at 5k. I'm happy to report zero issues and still no foam build up.
 
Good news! :clap:
 
There was a sticker on the windshield from a quick lube place when we purchased the truck. Now that I look back, I'm guessing that they over serviced the oil.

I'll be honest, I didn't think to check the oil at the time of sale. It had been about a week after that I did and it was a little on the high side. Meh, either way we're good now.

Also, I swapped out for the aluminum oil filter housing this go around. Very happy with that product. Draining the oil with the fumoto valve was a clean and easy process as always.
 
This is where I really going to miss my 100 - that thing was such a breeze for oil changes. Just suck the oil out thru the dipstick tube, unbolt the cover and replace the spin on filter. It even has a little sheet metal piece that directs the flow of oil toward your pan so you hardly spill a drop. No need to crawl under the thing other than in front, and no need to drop the skid plate.


I'm already staring to regret buying the much more complicated, expensive, and hard to live with 200. Also the 200 all shiny and new so it's tough to use it for it's intended purpose. The old 100? Plenty of battle scars, so head for the rough stuff without a second thought! Think I'll keep it around for a while, it's only got 280,000 on it and still runs like a champ!
 
Also the 200 all shiny and new so it's tough to use it for it's intended purpose.
I hate to leave a fellow mudder out to dry. So I'll do you a favor and trade you my old 200 for your new 200. Deal? Great! Glad I could help.
 
I use (Brian) Jowatt Engineering's aluminium filter housing. It's a beauty.

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Billet Oil Cap for filter

Mine is for the diesel engine. Make sure you select the correct one for a petrol engine.

I put a Fumoto drain valve in the bottom of it as well as one in the sump.

The whole process is very easy and clean. Just flick both Fumotos to drain, have a cup of coffee, replace filter, do up, fill with new oil.

These are someone else's great photos showing more detail.

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+1 on the oil filter housing. A really nice piece of kit that works great.
 
My Cruiser will be ready for its first oil change here soon but since Toyota will be handling complimentary changes via ToyotaCare, is it worthwhile to get the Jowett kit? Just afraid a Toyota Tech will screw something up.
 
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Installing a fumoto drain valve and the Jowett kit makes the oil/filter change a much more pleasant experience. I think the stealership should be able to handle it, especially with a heads up from you beforehand. I’d be more concerned that they replace all the skid plate bolts. That said, I do my own oil changes because I don’t trust any of the three dealers near me...
 
The dipstick in my 2010 Lx570 has no mark on it, yet the manual says there is a difference in the oil capacity. Anyone know a method to find out whether it's the 7.4 or 7.9 capacity?
 
Great writeup, but I have one suggestion.

The drain tool works much better if the drain-cap oring is removed from the filter cover and installed on the tool before insertion. The original writeup says to do this IF it came off when removing the cap. Even if it didn't put it on the tool. Way less force, the oring will stay in the correct spot, and oil won't leak around the tool.

Done this way I've never understood people reporting problems with the tool. It has worked perfectly every time for me, both with the original plastic filter housing and the last few changes with the aluminum part.
 
The dipstick in my 2010 Lx570 has no mark on it, yet the manual says there is a difference in the oil capacity. Anyone know a method to find out whether it's the 7.4 or 7.9 capacity?
Put in 7.4 and run the engine. Check to see if it is full. Adjust as required.
 
The dipstick in my 2010 Lx570 has no mark on it, yet the manual says there is a difference in the oil capacity. Anyone know a method to find out whether it's the 7.4 or 7.9 capacity?

I can't explain why your dipstick has no marks on it - makes no sense, but your capacity is 7.4 if you do not drain and replace the oil filter and 7.9 if you do replace the oil filter.

HTH
 
Thanks guys, I guess the PO took the paint off assuming it was meaningless. I’ve been using the scientific method of fill, run, and top off. Just wondered if there was something else to look to.
 
Thanks guys, I guess the PO took the paint off assuming it was meaningless. I’ve been using the scientific method of fill, run, and top off. Just wondered if there was something else to look to.

Hey, is there any chance you can post up a picture of your dipstick and more specifically the lower measuring section? You have me curious.
 
Thanks guys, I guess the PO took the paint off assuming it was meaningless. I’ve been using the scientific method of fill, run, and top off. Just wondered if there was something else to look to.

I'm also curious to see a pic of the dipstick in your LX570. For reference, here's a pic of the dipstick in my 2013LC - suspect yours should be similar:

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The dipstick is about 680mm (26 3/4") long excluding the handle. The High and Low marks are dimples - no paint to be removed.

If you have no dimples, or your dipstick is shorter, then you probably have a problem.

HTH
 
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Yeah I’ll grab it tonight and post
 

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