Media Official LX570s Picture Thread (10 Viewers)

Official Photo/Video thread

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What's the advantage of an LC rack vs. an LX rack? Purely aesthetics?
Aesthetically most people wouldn’t notice a difference. The advantage is Longer rails and a 3rd mounting point. I have them as well, zoomed in from the picture I posted a few days ago in this thread.

6DE2D1CC-A1F8-47E5-92B4-E46B1646B93E.jpeg
 
I have two skyboxes a 16 and 21. Only run both at the same time when traveling to regional ski races. Both fit with the OEM LX rails but hit the tailgate. I keep the 16 and a skinny basket on much of the summer.

View attachment 3095715

You can also cut the slots on some of the longer boxes to slide it a little further forward to prevent interference with the tailgate. Then I placed some additional heavy duty tape on the inside to help prevent any water ingress.

5F297F94-A1D1-48E8-AA37-E7419F7E4B09.jpeg
 
You can also cut the slots on some of the longer boxes to slide it a little further forward to prevent interference with the tailgate. Then I placed some additional heavy duty tape on the inside to help prevent any water ingress.

View attachment 3095738
I had the boxes and OEM LX rails for 8 years. With the Yakama round bars I could push the box far enough forward so the tailgate just sort of pressed against the box only when the box lid was closed and gate all the way up. I mainly switched to the LC rails to give my 17’ canoe and salmon gear a larger platform to sit on. (Old rails in picture)

And in Alaska yes we do dip net spawning salmon out of a canoe.

478CE5E4-3173-412E-9934-3580D516A50E.jpeg


5419BF03-3E7F-47B3-8821-F07979BFFDCF.jpeg


460BC86E-AAE3-42B9-A0E4-4E49D2BFFEAD.jpeg
 
Aesthetically most people wouldn’t notice a difference. The advantage is Longer rails and a 3rd mounting point. I have them as well, zoomed in from the picture I posted a few days ago in this thread.

View attachment 3095686
Case in point: I looked at the pics of the two and did not notice that one was slightly longer than the other. Thanks for satisfying my curiosity!
 
Example. This box only fits on an LC rack.

View attachment 3095683

View attachment 3095684
That’s not true. The Yakima 21 fits on the stock rack - it slightly impedes full open functionality of the rear hatch. It's plastic on plastic rubbing so no big deal IMO.
We're in the same boat, because that's what I used also. Given the application and the way the mounting hardware mates to the roof, I think it should be fine, but I have asked for other opinions. I used in on the bolt threads also.
I was thinking about the residual product trapping water between the bolt holes allowing rust to form underneath all of the plastic shrouding. Not sure how viable that is but it's something that crossed my mind. I am not at all concerned about the rack leaking. I swapped racks on my 4Runner 12 years ago and never used any sealant. Has been totally bone dry.
 
That’s not true. The Yakima 21 fits on the stock rack - it slightly impedes full open functionality of the rear hatch. It's plastic on plastic rubbing so no big deal IMO.

I was thinking about the residual product trapping water between the bolt holes allowing rust to form underneath all of the plastic shrouding. Not sure how viable that is but it's something that crossed my mind. I am not at all concerned about the rack leaking. I swapped racks on my 4Runner 12 years ago and never used any sealant. Has been totally bone dry.
I think the design of the mounts will prevent that. I only had a small amount ooze out, so any trapped water should dry quickly.
 
  • Do you have what you did documented somewhere?
It's pushing @TeCKis300 "long travel ahc" concept a little harder.

  • 30mm of coiler spacers in the front
  • 20mm of spring spacers in the rear
  • BMC
  • chop and fab the rear lower shock mount up two inches
  • drop rear bumps .5 inches (I'll be moving to Timbren shortly)
  • Full AHC flush and globe replacement
    No binding or any significant rubbing some in the top of the rear inner wheel well, but negligible. Driving Characteristics on road are 100% maintained.

    For wheel travel numbers in the 11-12in range front and back this cost me 600 bucks and 12 hours in the garage. Most of that budget was the ahc maintenance.

    I have most of the parts sourced for tundra front end swap here... I'll be adding that to the equation in late October. the only thing holding me back was scheduling a proper alignment at Slee. Apparently they book 2-3 months out at the moment
    I'll add some photos of the details at some point to @TeCKis300's thread
 
It's pushing @TeCKis300 "long travel ahc" concept a little harder.

  • 30mm of coiler spacers in the front
  • 20mm of spring spacers in the rear
  • BMC
  • chop and fab the rear lower shock mount up two inches
  • drop rear bumps .5 inches (I'll be moving to Timbren shortly)
  • Full AHC flush and globe replacement
    No binding or any significant rubbing some in the top of the rear inner wheel well, but negligible. Driving Characteristics on road are 100% maintained.

    For wheel travel numbers in the 11-12in range front and back this cost me 600 bucks and 12 hours in the garage. Most of that budget was the ahc maintenance.

    I have most of the parts sourced for tundra front end swap here... I'll be adding that to the equation in late October. the only thing holding me back was scheduling a proper alignment at Slee. Apparently they book 2-3 months out at the moment
    I'll add some photos of the details at some point to @TeCKis300's thread

Although I’m sure Slee would do a great job with the alignment, I would think there should be at least a few other options with enough experience and ability to do it correctly. You might also consider adding the alignment cam tabs as an upgrade at the same time.

Well done with your build 🤙🏼 I will be mimicking your rear lower suspension mount asap.

…and since this is the photo thread…
46F4B7E7-E88D-4369-B2C0-EB894C2048B4.jpeg
 
Although I’m sure Slee would do a great job with the alignment, I would think there should be at least a few other options with enough experience and ability to do it correctly. You might also consider adding the alignment cam tabs as an upgrade at the same time.

Well done with your build 🤙🏼 I will be mimicking your rear lower suspension mount asap.

…and since this is the photo thread…
View attachment 3096292
It’s been a local struggle honestly.

Stevenson Lexus too 2 alignments to get it somewhat proper.

RSG off-road was the same scenario.

I’m in no rush, at least I can close out the season wheeling and not have any more down time.

CamTabs would certainly save me the headache every few 1000 miles.

40s look amazing… 37s whisper in my ear every night lying in bed… next season with a rear locker and gears.
 
It’s been a local struggle honestly.

Stevenson Lexus too 2 alignments to get it somewhat proper.

RSG off-road was the same scenario.

I’m in no rush, at least I can close out the season wheeling and not have any more down time.

CamTabs would certainly save me the headache every few 1000 miles.

40s look amazing… 37s whisper in my ear every night lying in bed… next season with a rear locker and gears.
I’ve had good success with a number of local tire shops over the years, but I tell them I’m picky and I want to see the numbers before and after. Sorry you’ve not had the same results.

That one photo of your rear tire tucked in so far is mint 🤌🏼 That will be impossible for me to do with 40’s but maybe you can do it with 37’s next year. I highly recommend that size 😉
 
It's pushing @TeCKis300 "long travel ahc" concept a little harder.

  • 30mm of coiler spacers in the front
  • 20mm of spring spacers in the rear
  • BMC
  • chop and fab the rear lower shock mount up two inches
  • drop rear bumps .5 inches (I'll be moving to Timbren shortly)
  • Full AHC flush and globe replacement
    No binding or any significant rubbing some in the top of the rear inner wheel well, but negligible. Driving Characteristics on road are 100% maintained.

    For wheel travel numbers in the 11-12in range front and back this cost me 600 bucks and 12 hours in the garage. Most of that budget was the ahc maintenance.

    I have most of the parts sourced for tundra front end swap here... I'll be adding that to the equation in late October. the only thing holding me back was scheduling a proper alignment at Slee. Apparently they book 2-3 months out at the moment
    I'll add some photos of the details at some point to @TeCKis300's thread
Looking good!

If you haven't done it yet, check your brake lines.
 
Looking good!

If you haven't done it yet, check your brake lines.
I appreciate that, you’re right they need another inch or so of length. What lines did you use when you swapped? I’m sure you have it written somewhere…
 

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