Official 200 Series Chat and BS Thread (3 Viewers)

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Came across this and thought it was pretty neat. Remember seeing a few conversations here about which grease/anti-seize to use
 
Dan Edmunds back with the good stuff (forgive his model nomenclature misspeak):


Fwiw, Dan was an engineer @ Toyota before spinning off into the media side of things. I've worked on a handful of Toyota Corp. projects with him, great guy.
 
Has anyone on here heard a clicking sound coming from the rear when navigating rocky terrain off road? Nothing visible and I have removed the highlift thinking that was it. Stumped! Thanks for your input, L.
 
Has anyone on here heard a clicking sound coming from the rear when navigating rocky terrain off road? Nothing visible and I have removed the highlift thinking that was it. Stumped! Thanks for your input, L.

How loud is the clicking? I would mention crawl control but it's pretty obvious when it's working.
 
Has anyone on here heard a clicking sound coming from the rear when navigating rocky terrain off road? Nothing visible and I have removed the highlift thinking that was it. Stumped! Thanks for your input, L.

How loud and how consistent is it? First thought would be a rock stuck in the voids of the tread, but could potentially be a lot of things. What year is your 200 and what mods does it have? How many miles could be relevant due to wear items too.
 
How loud and how consistent is it? First thought would be a rock stuck in the voids of the tread, but could potentially be a lot of things. What year is your 200 and what mods does it have? How many miles could be relevant due to wear items too.

It would be something like a shock stone guard. It’s a 2018 with a 2.5” lift. SCS wheels with 33/12.50/18 Toyo MTs. ARB Bumpers and front winch. I removed the highlight Jack because I thought the handle was clinking, that wasn’t it.
 
One other idea, if you have access to "chassis ears" you can locate the microphones under the vehicle and move them around to help isolate the source of the sound.
 
Yup, the first place too ck after the hi-lift.

After you check that the top shock nut is secure, try grabbing the upper part of the shock and give it a twist. There should be enough pressure on the upper mount assembly to keep it from moving around. You may have the dreaded "clunk". The rubber bushings used in the upper mount may not be firm enough to keep the hat washer in place and is allowing the stack to jump in and out of its mount on the frame. Its an easy fix by adding another washer to the top of the stack to increase pressure on the rubber bushings. Its best to use an old shock washer with a hole diameter large enough to slip on to the main shock shaft, not just the threaded portion. The nut needs to bottom out at the end of the threaded portion.
OME sent me a bunch of new rubber bushings but I found that just adding another washer fixed the problem even with the new bushings. If this is the problem, you will want to get to it before the shock hat washer augers out the frame mount.
 
Yup, the first place too ck after the hi-lift.

After you check that the top shock nut is secure, try grabbing the upper part of the shock and give it a twist. There should be enough pressure on the upper mount assembly to keep it from moving around. You may have the dreaded "clunk". The rubber bushings used in the upper mount may not be firm enough to keep the hat washer in place and is allowing the stack to jump in and out of its mount on the frame. Its an easy fix by adding another washer to the top of the stack to increase pressure on the rubber bushings. Its best to use an old shock washer with a hole diameter large enough to slip on to the main shock shaft, not just the threaded portion. The nut needs to bottom out at the end of the threaded portion.
OME sent me a bunch of new rubber bushings but I found that just adding another washer fixed the problem even with the new bushings. If this is the problem, you will want to get to it before the shock hat washer augers out the frame mount.

solid information here. Thank you. I only notice it when there are 5-8” cobble or similar ledges. I will spend more time crawling around under there. Did yours also sound like a clacking highlife jack handle smoking the main shaft? Eat way I can explain it.
 
Yes, that sounds about right. We called it the CLUNK on a thread in 2017 and it involved the BP51 and the basic OME series shocks. I am not saying that this is what you are hearing but it does fit the description. A few others have done the same fix since then. Its worth a try, just make sure the extra washer stays centered and rides around the main shock shaft and not on the threaded portion. The nut needs to bottom out to reach proper torque.
 
Look what the good UPS man dropped off...
1590296101733.png


...for my bro's 100-series. It is the right length for the 200-series as every LC since the 80-series has had the same wheelbase. Makes me think some minor surgery to the legs with a plasma cutter and some welding could do it.
 
200 is enjoying giving me a hard time... yesterday belt started squealing. Was directly associated with revs all day long. So was going to buy the Gates kit that includes the tensioner today as well. Went out popped the hood and was going to try and see exactly where the squeal was coming from. No issues with that today.
But CDL is flashing on start up today... :bang: why does my CDL enjoy flashing when the weather is hot and not when it's cold like the rest of the 200s that have this issue occasionally.
 
I know I should just go up and knock on the door, but...

A block or so away from me is a family that moved not too long ago. They have a 2016+ LC, and another older LC (I think it's an 80). I have never good the good luck to see the older one out in the driveway to verify the series. The newer version is in the Blizzard Pearl color and looks relatively stock. Usually a BMW in the driveway.

Anybody one here?
 
Woah!!

Tesla just surpassed TOYOTA to become the worlds #1 highest-market-value auto maker at 207 billion vs Toyota’s 202.

Amazing.
 

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