OEM radiator available again?

[Joe Link]

The radiator should be sealed to the core support, done with foam strip. The dealer one comes with, aftermarket needs to be added. The stuff that comes on the dealer ones is open cell, closed cell works better and lasts longer, and placement can be done better than what is supplied. None of them come with the lower strip.

If you are in a temperate climate, don't load motor hard, etc, the dealer aluminum radiator will likely work fine. But there are more efficient ones available, the TYC significantly out performs the dealer radiator.

Thanks for the info! Any chance you have a pic or a link to the foam I should order? I think I'll go ahead and get a TYC coming.

 

[Spamcheese]

Going to bring back this old thread. So my Toyota radiator that was installed at the dealer on 6/18 has failed. So is the consensus that TYC is now the way to go?

 

[MoJ]

What about the Toyota radiator failed? Your dealer might replace it on the house given such a short life.

 

[Kernal]

^^^This^^^. Where did the radiator fail; can you take some photos and post them up??

 

[Spamcheese]

So I got to check the radiator. Appears it busted at the bottom middle. Several fins were broken. Before radiator failed I crossed into water about 3 feet deep. I think something got tossed in there and hit the fan. I hate that this happened to me again because the previous radiator did the exact same thing when I crossed a stream as well.

So with this bad luck I'd like to know, if your fan clutch is modded with heavy silicone would that "help" it cut through water and hit the fins? If the clutch was normal I would assume when submerged in water it would most likely not spin. Ill take pics later but the radiator has grooves that match the fan.

 

[Kernal]

I'm not an expert in fording deep water, ask that question in your thread, someone will chime in.

My main point is whenever the axle housing is submerged you have to
expect that water will get past the seals (hub seals particularly)
or get sucked inside via the breather if it's not working or disconnected.

The sooner you get the water out, particularly from the wheel bearings
the better it will be.

Did your fan blade break or did something else strike the radiator?

 

[Spamcheese]

Did your fan blade break or did something else strike the radiator?

There was nothing else left in the area that could have given me clues. Fan is intact, but there is 2 sections on the radiator that the fan blades grazed.

 

[Pierce]

I’ve read about this phenomenon before on this forum. During deep water crossings water has been known to pull the fan blades into the radiator with a modded fan clutch. Read about two other instances I think. I Will probably never be awesome enough to test the theory myself.

 

[OGBeno]

Yup. Happened to me in Arch Canyon years ago. 2009 IIRC. Water crossing, being cool, blasted through, overheating... fan through radiator...

Copper radiator and Waterweld from @TrickyT saved the trip.

 

[Spamcheese]

There is the damage at the bottom

 

[80t0ylc]

That flex fan's made to pull air, not water. Take your arm and swipe it from one side to the other in front of you. Hardly any effort at all, right? No matter how fast you do it - no resistance. Try that in a swimming pool. The faster you move it - the harder it becomes. Fan's will flex when working hard and the higher the rpm's, the more they flex. Remember that when deep water crossing - keep rpm's to a minimum.