Obstruction in bottom of spark plug hole Preventing Spark Plug Install ? (1 Viewer)

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I'm almost done changing the original spark plugs, for the 1st time, on a 2003 Landcruiser with 159K. I ran into a problem with the rear plug on drivers side, please attached see pic.
The old plug came out just fine., and nothing fell in afterwards. Whatever it is, it's preventing another plug from threading. Any ideas? I tried using a magnet, gently pushing it down, no luck. Any ideas, advice ? Thank you.

100LNDCRSR_SPRKPLG_OBSTRUCTION.jpg
 
Are you using the correct spark plug? is the electrode in your newer is longer than what came out? is the obstruction is the spark plug at the bottom is the piston at top dead center? Also post the plug you removed from that cylinder and the new plug you are about to install. Thanks!
 
New Plugs: NGK IFR6T11 (4589). Old orig plugs: Denso SK20R11. i had no issues installing the other plugs. Thank you.

20241020_185728.jpg
 
Similar-ish recently, wonder if yours is related to threads too.


Can you get a picture with focus on the plug threads, not the cover top?
 
I will take the pics. However, I don't think it's a problem with the plug threads. With the other cylinders, the old plugs came out, and the new ones screwed in fine. Just having an issue with this plug/cylinder. whatever is done in hole, is preventing the thread from catching. I tried pushing a plug down, but it only collapsed the gap.
 
Similar-ish recently, wonder if yours is related to threads too.


Can you get a picture with focus on the plug threads, not the cove
 
Agree 100%. With the other issue, it seems his plug was in and working, with the obstruction on top. Not sure if it was determined what it was.
Maybe in the morning, I'll try with long needle nose pliers. It seems odd, at least in my case, that the object is perfectly centered! What are the odds of anything fallling in would land perfectly in the middle?
 
Take some other spark plugs out and take pictures of those holes, Rotate the engine, take some more pictures. Is this "thing" in cylinder 7 moving?
 
Guys it was a long day, working outside, out of boxes., etc. I think Trunk Monkey was right on. I think my old plug might still in there, with the gasket from the Spark Plug Socket (thanks also - WarDamnEagle!) Counted the old plugs - 1 short. Unless it's in a box. I got CRS - Can't Remember Sheet. I'll check in the morn. Very very happy if that's what it is. THANK YOU ALL !
 
Thanks to everyone. Yes the old plug was still in, with cushion from spark plug socket. I had vacuumed around the plug, and thought I removed it. She's purring like a kitten, with new plugs, coils, and coil bolts. One of the original coil bolts had snapped after being seized. 1st time changing in 22 years. I let the bolt stud soak overnight with a cotton swab soaked in Kroil, orig formula, resting on it's side, protected area around with rags. In the morn, the swab was pretty much white, as all the Kroil had slowly dripped onto the bolt base. Then used CRC Freeze-Off. Hit a Mayhew Pro Center Punch a few times, and she was loose. Walked it out with a small pic. (The night before I was prepared to use a bolt extractor the next day) I used Nicklel antiseize on the ignition coil bolts, and hand tightened. My advice, inspect your plugs eveyr 60K even thought she may be running just fine - so you exercise the bolts and plugs, and they don't possibly seize. After 22 yrs, and 155K miles, the plugs and bolts reluctantly came out. Used contact cleaner on coil connectors, and some dielectric grease on coil base bottom inside Thanks again to all.
 
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Nope, I just triple checked. Thanks .
Thanks to everyone. Yes the old plug was still in, with cushion from spark plug socket. I had vacuumed around the plug, and thought I removed it. She's purring like a kitten, with new plugs, coils, and coil bolts. One of the original coil bolts had snapped after being seized. 1st time changing in 22 years. I let the bolt stud soak overnight with a cotton swab soaked in Kroil, orig formula, resting on it's side, protected area around with rags. In the morn, the swab was pretty much white, as all the Kroil had slowly dripped onto the bolt base. Then used CRC Freeze-Off. Hit a Mayhew Pro Center Punch a few times, and she was loose. Walked it out with a small pic. (The night before I was prepared to use a bolt extractor the next day) I used Nicklel antiseize on the ignition coil bolts, and hand tightened. My advice, inspect your plugs eveyr 60K even thought she may be running just fine - so you exercise the bolts and plugs, and they don't possibly seize. After 22 yrs, and 155K miles, the plugs and bolts reluctantly came out. Used contact cleaner on coil connectors, and some dielectric grease on coil base bottom inside Thanks again to all.
 
Here's an old old old trick that I learned from working on the leaning tower of power. I stick a plug up in a fuel line so that it fits tight then twist the line to get the plug started and hand tightened. Plug socket goes in last for final torque. It gives me a feel for thread condition before I use a plug socket.

1729604464642.png
 
Here's an old old old trick that I learned from working on the leaning tower of power. I stick a plug up in a fuel line so that it fits tight then twist the line to get the plug started and hand tightened. Plug socket goes in last for final torque. It gives me a feel for thread condition before I use a plug socket.

View attachment 3755465
Awesome. I also prefer to start by hand. I'm considering purchasing the SnapOn S9706KFUAMAG spark plug socket as it doesn't have a rubber insert. The GearWrench 80546 was very good, but the rubber insert got stuck on the plugs frequently. Thanks!
 

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