No Spark this morning, then randomly got spark again, need advise on what to do next (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 29, 2022
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Location
New Mexico
So, I got the fusible link in the mail today, went outside to install, went to fire, crank, but nothing, so started diagnosing. Took out spark plug 1 and no spark, replace plug and wire, still no spark. Now here is where it gets interesting, started looking for loose connections, nothing appeared loose, the connector that’s on the distributor I disconnected and reconnected, still nothing, but when I started to jiggle the connector it would start to sputter, finally after like a few mins of jiggling it fired up, ran clunky, ran loud, but was able to drive it! It would keep firing up, but I didn’t do anything so just waiting to hit a bump or something and then back to no start, every now and again I would have to turn the key a few times in order to get the starter to engage but it would at least fire up, so knowing I jiggle that connector what might be faulty? The distributor? 2nd, got the CEL code it’s P0330 knock sensor #2 which I assume is the rear, ordering part this evening. Post photo of connector, I assume that wire comes from ignition coil? How can I tell which part is the culprits. Thanks I’m advance for ur help! U guys have been great so far!!!
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I have attached photos of my engine bay, maybe someone can see something I’m missing and my fuse box.
 
One thing looks not quite right, the Non-OEM blue spark plug wire (#1) may not be pushed all the way in, does it fit correctly on the distributor cap/post??


Other things not quite right but not related to your current issues:

Wrong battery Group (causing battery cables to be pulled/stretched)
AM1 Junction box (near the positive post) is missing top cover (risk of shorting if a tool touches the exposed studs.
Missing exhaust header heat shields
Missing (?snapped off) valve cover bolts
Missing hose clamp breather hose at valve cover
Missing spark plug wire covers
Throttle cable rubber layer is gone (heat damage)
Possible coolant leak at the riser pipe right front of head near Tstat housing
Signs of oil leaks (?old) front of engine.
 
the non oem wire is ngk wires, snaps in and get good spark now, problem is I had to jiggle the distributor connector in order to get it to fire
 
battery tray grommets missing
valve cover bolts missing
nut on fan clutch missing
has the harness by the EGR pipe been zip-tied away ?
is there foam between the upper radiator and the front valance ?
get the OEM dizzy wires, they last for decades - also, sort the dizzy wires properly with the provided holders (they are not supposed to snake over or around each other)
 
White tracing on the outside of the distributor cap lug. Could be cracked cap.

Not sure intended goal, or purpose of the truck.

You seem to want to fire the parts cannon at it. If so, buy the RIGHT parts and do it ONCE.

Toyota replacement parts are proven on this truck. I've never encountered a different vehicle that "spits out" aftermarket parts like my LC. Buy once, cry once.

Do a search on here for "where to buy parts" and there is more than one thread detailing certain Toyota dealerships that give excellent pricing as well as other vendors.

Also, download the FSM from the Resources section above and work towards PROPERLY diagnosing issues. Just because you THINK it's a knock sensor doesn't mean it is. They are rarely bad on these trucks. Most of the time it's a crispy wire or terminal not making good connection.

Start at the beginning and baseline this thing.

Cap
Rotor
Plug wires
Plugs
Battery

Yes, the plug connection on the top of the distributor is known to be a problem for your issues. Unplug it, clean it up with electrical cleaner, and closely inspect it for broken wires. You can buy a new pigtail connector if needed.

Good luck!
 
When you wiggled the wires going to the dizzy it may of wiggled other wires that tie into the harness nearby. There is a single wire in a 3 pin connector that hangs right below the power steering reservoir. It ties into the main harness near #1injector. It is the main power supply for the ECM. I had that wire corrode right under the socket. Prevents the C E light from coming on when you first turn key to RUN. engine will crank over but no ignition can happen. When my rig died we ran a jumper from B+ on battery to B+ pin in diagnostic port. Ran fine that way.
 

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