No CEL - MAF Tear Down - No Start - EB1 Faulty (Solved)

[1994LCNM]

And for clarification, the * annotated gold plating?

If there are 2 numbers under "Part No. of Reapir Wire," we order both?

 

[jonheld]

And for clarification, the * annotated gold plating?

If there are 2 numbers under "Part No. of Reapir Wire," we order both?

Order either or, not both. Personally, I stick with tin plated.

 

[1994LCNM]

Ok, I ordered the 3 connectors with the 160mm, will receive tomorrow and report back.

 

[Ming89FJ62]

@Coolerman may have replacements...

 

[1994LCNM]

@jonheld

This is what I have received so far. Looks like I am missing wires. I still have 2 pieces coming in tomorrow.

I look at each terminal and it has 3 wires. Am I missing something?

 

[jonheld]

@jonheld

This is what I have received so far. Looks like I am missing wires. I still have 2 pieces coming in tomorrow.

I look at each terminal and it has 3 wires. Am I missing something?

Look at your invoice. I don't know what you ordered.

 

[1994LCNM]

I am trying to repair 9 wires total:
EB1 Male (3)
EB1 Female (3)
Alternator Female (3)

The wire repair manual only lists 1 wire per housing listed, which is a total of (3). I am missing (6) wires.

12480 is not yellow red, it came in as black yellow? See picture above.

The housing had rubber grommets in place of empty wire holes, are there part numbers for these?

Ideas where to get the other ones?

Below is the picture of them after I took them out of the housing.

@OGBeno
@jonheld

 

[1994LCNM]

Here is how my harness looks up by the egr. Looks like someone had it zipped. It doesn't "appear" to be melted or damaged. Should I open it and check it?

The burned wire I found was on EB1 Female side, not the Male housing connected to the harness. It was also a green wire corroded, see pic below.

 

[FMC80]

Here is how my harness looks up by the egr. Looks like someone had it zipped. It doesn't "appear" to be melted or damaged. Should I open it and check it?

The burned wire I found was on EB1 Female side, not the housing connected to the harness. It was also a green wire corroded.
View attachment 2910838

View attachment 2910839

View attachment 2910840

Many look the same as yours because over time the clamp that held your harness back and away from the EGR tube and closer to the firewall gives way and oftentimes the harness gets toasted or even burnt by the EGR line.

What I and several others have done is to open up the harness, ridding the old wrap and inspecting the wires underneath for any compromise. Once you’re confident all is gtg, then you can use fire resistant wrap and secure your harness by the firewall using metal zip-ties or other method of choice.

 

[jonheld]

The wire repair manual only lists 1 wire per housing listed, which is a total of (3). I am missing (6) wires.

You didn't order the correct amount of terminals. Each part number is a single terminal with a 6" pigtail. If you need 3 males and 3 females, you need to order 3 males and 3 females. If you only order 1, you'll only get 1. Connector housings and terminals are sold individually as generic parts, so the colors won't match.

 

[1994LCNM]

Update, new wiring housing and terminals for Female EB1/ 10946

Also, a picture of the old terminals. So I wonder WHY these got burnt.

@jonheld
There has been updates to the wires, some are different diameters.

 

[1994LCNM]

Update: all terminals looked ok until I got to this one. Any ideas if this terminal is burned all the way back? Or can I still use this terminal? This is EB1/10945 Male.

Oxidation??

 

[1994LCNM]

@ppc

You mentioned that;
EB1 is a direct connection to the control coil of the EFI Main Relay. Check out page 54 in the wiring diagrams section if you have the PDF file. It is under the engine control section.

Where do I find the control coil of the efi main relay?? Or where can I locate the other side of this wire? This wire was the only one damage and I'm trying to find out why it is (see picture above).

 

[ppc]

@ppc

You mentioned that;
EB1 is a direct connection to the control coil of the EFI Main Relay. Check out page 54 in the wiring diagrams section if you have the PDF file. It is under the engine control section.

Where do I find the control coil of the efi main relay?? Or where can I locate the other side of this wire? This wire was the only one damage and I'm trying to find out why it is (see picture above).

Not exactly sure what your question is. The coil is part of the EFI relay or any relay. The coil creates a magnetic field which closes the relay contacts. In the picture above the wire doesn't appear to be burned but is corroded from water or other contaminants. The connector, being vertically orientated, is susceptible to water intrusion. This is why dielectric grease is used to help protect the connection.

 

[1994LCNM]

Not exactly sure what your question is. The coil is part of the EFI relay or any relay. The coil creates a magnetic field which closes the relay contacts. In the picture above the wire doesn't appear to be burned but is corroded from water or other contaminants. The connector, being vertically orientated, is susceptible to water intrusion. This is why dielectric grease is used to help protect the connection.

Is this wire still usable or do I need to replace the entire wire?

 

[ppc]

Is this wire still usable or do I need to replace the entire wire?

You will need to strip back more of the insulation to inspect the condition of the copper. That is exactly why the new terminals come with pigtails of sufficient length. If the corrosion is longer than the pigtail then you can replace the entire wire or just splice in a new section. Too many splices is not good either. Not knowing what side of the connector this wire is on, it's going to be a call you'll have to make.

 

[1994LCNM]

Ok I stripped 5" of each terminal wire (9 total) back and looks like it wasn't corroded that far back. Then I assembled everything (pic below).

It turned on just fine, not an issue at all, CEL came on, etc. CEL issue is solved...

HOWEVER, the things idle is way off. At every stop sign it dies. Idles at 100-150 rpms.

I checked for codes and none are stored.

Could this be because we took off the MAF and rebuilt it? No check engine lights are on?

Before it went into the garage and the harness rebuilt, there was NO issue with idle at all. This is new.

Ideas? Throttle cable? Air leak?

 

[Irish Reiver]

Is it possible you have introduced a vacuum leak into the system? Maybe with the AFM being removed the air intake tube got damaged.
By the way you can clean the oxidization by using some salt & vinegar in one cup and baking powder in a separate cup. 2 Mins in the salt & vinegar (acid) then the same in the baking powder (alkaline) .

 

[1994LCNM]

Is it possible you have introduced a vacuum leak into the system? Maybe with the AFM being removed the air intake tube got damaged.
By the way you can clean the oxidization by using some salt & vinegar in one cup and baking powder in a separate cup. 2 Mins in the salt & vinegar (acid) then the same in the baking powder (alkaline) .

Maybe, but I've tripple checked every single inch on the vaccume and intake. There are 2 cables.to the intake, which is the idle? Both have slack? Maybe this is the issue?

And to clarify, it's cutting out. It starts and idles at 600, but the it drops to 100 to 150 and cuts out. Like 600, then down to 100, the up to 150, then down to 100, then to 150, cutting out until it stalls.

And it smells like it's running rich.

 

[cruiserdan]

I assume the battery was disconnected?

If so the ECU needs to re-learn the curb idle. It takes several ignition cycles for the idle to bump up.

Start it and let the engine settle down. Say for a minute. Shut it off and let it sit for 30 seconds or so and then re-start.

Repeat the process and each cycle the idle should bump up a bit. It can take 10 or more cycles.