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No CEL - MAF Tear Down - No Start - EB1 Faulty (Solved)
- Thread starter 1994LCNM
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1994LCNM
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- Thread starter
- #63
Ok, so....
Truck turns on. Runs super rough. Then it stalls out. I go to turn it over, no CEL. SOOOO...
I unplugged that connection at the top of the dizzy cap. Sometimes it works and the cel comes back on, it starts, idle roughs, stalls, cel dissappear.
Then I started tugging and messing with the wires in the picture below, CEL pops back on, truck starts, idles right, stalls. No cel. Mess with wires, cel comes back, rinse and repeat.
Ideas guys??
Truck turns on. Runs super rough. Then it stalls out. I go to turn it over, no CEL. SOOOO...
I unplugged that connection at the top of the dizzy cap. Sometimes it works and the cel comes back on, it starts, idle roughs, stalls, cel dissappear.
Then I started tugging and messing with the wires in the picture below, CEL pops back on, truck starts, idles right, stalls. No cel. Mess with wires, cel comes back, rinse and repeat.
Ideas guys??
ppc
M Go Blue
With the engine not running, turn the key to run but do not start. The CEL should light constantly indicating that the ECM is receiving power. If that is not the case then have someone watch the CEL and wiggle the wires to see if it will comes on. That includes the 3 fusible links and their connections.
Once it comes on, start the engine and let it run. If it requires some constant throttle to keep it running then that's OK, no need to constantly rev the engine. Smooth throttle is the key to keep engine/wiring harnesses movement at a minimum. Again try wiggling wires to see if you can get it to stall. There i no need to drive the vehicle.
Without the ECM receiving constant power it resets/reboots and needs to relearn its parameters. That could take several starts and the motor is not going to run properly until it relearns parameters.
Once it comes on, start the engine and let it run. If it requires some constant throttle to keep it running then that's OK, no need to constantly rev the engine. Smooth throttle is the key to keep engine/wiring harnesses movement at a minimum. Again try wiggling wires to see if you can get it to stall. There i no need to drive the vehicle.
Without the ECM receiving constant power it resets/reboots and needs to relearn its parameters. That could take several starts and the motor is not going to run properly until it relearns parameters.
1994LCNM
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- Thread starter
- #65
Ok we got the CEL to come on, started the truck, and started tugging in the area. The truck died real fast, we rinsed and repeated.
Here's what we found, see if picture below:
As soon as we PULL that exact spot circled (not hard, just a tug) it turns on the fuel pump and above it we can hear the fuel being circulated in the fpr. Then the CEL pops on.
If we PUSH that exact spot, everything dies, CEL goes bye bye.
Connection is EB1.
Here's what we found, see if picture below:
As soon as we PULL that exact spot circled (not hard, just a tug) it turns on the fuel pump and above it we can hear the fuel being circulated in the fpr. Then the CEL pops on.
If we PUSH that exact spot, everything dies, CEL goes bye bye.
Connection is EB1.
Last edited:
ppc
M Go Blue
Can't tell from the photo but the harness appears to feed back into the engine which means it goes to the main engine harness and continuing onto the ECM. You need to remove the protective sleeve, to inspect the wires/connector further, get the color codes on the wires and look them up in the FSM wiring diagrams.
ppc
M Go Blue
EB1 is a direct connection to the control coil of the EFI Main Relay. Check out page 54 in the wiring diagrams section if you have the PDF file. It is under the engine control section.
Your ruff running motor could also be a large vacuum leak. The oil on your #1 spark plug indicates a leaking spark plug tube seal and could be the vacuum leak as well.
ppc
M Go Blue
Yes, as I stated before the ECM was being reset so parameters need to be relearned. Once you fix the connector problem then start driving it on some short trips.
ppc
M Go Blue
Bingo.... lots of corrosion, that will do it.. Check both sides of the male and female connectors. The need to be nice and tight.
ppc
M Go Blue
Toyota dealer should be able to get the connectors, pigtails or you can google the part numbers.
None of these items are discontinued. I strongly suggest you find another parts source.
EB1 parts list.
Male connector: 90980-10945 $8.45 from McGeorge Toyota
Female connector: 90980-10946 $7.77 from McGeorge Toyota
Male pins: 82998-12470 160mm pigtail $6.36 from McGeorge Toyota
Female pins: 82998-12480 160mm pigtail $6.36 from McGeorge Toyota
1994LCNM
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- Thread starter
- #77
Thanks John. Do you have a parts number for the female connector for the alternator that is connected to this part of the harness as well please?
Also, do you think there will be enough wire to make these work? I worry that they will be too short when changed out?
Thoughts?
You're getting a 6" pigtail for each male and female terminal. You'll have more than enough to fix this properly.
Please see this post:
FAQ - 1995-1997 1FZ-FE FZJ80 OBD2 Main Engine Wiring Harness Connector Information
The following posts are to document the 1FZ-FE US market 80 series 1995-1997 OBD2 main engine wiring harness connectors. While this is not exhaustive in the sense that it covers every single connector, it does cover about 95% of them. The remaining 5% or so are not sourceable outside of the...
forum.ih8mud.com
If you download the Toyota wire harness repair manual from the resources section, all connector and terminal part numbers are there. You no longer have to rely on some child behind a parts counter.
forum.ih8mud.com
Manual - Toyota Wiring Harness Repair Manual (RM 1022E)
Includes: general troubleshooting guidelines terminal replacement housing/terminal description and part numbers
forum.ih8mud.com
