I kinda like the black on tan. It's a good contrast. I would have figured, however, that the black would show crud way before the tan does. No?
Newps - 2001 LC 100 build thread…..
- Thread starter Newps
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I kinda like the black on tan. It's a good contrast. I would have figured, however, that the black would show crud way before the tan does. No?
Wow, that makes them seem even more expensive. Do they recommend running 4 up front, or just 2 of them along with 2 factory bumpstops like you have it?I really like the idea of these bumpstops, since I bottomed fairly hard a few times on my last trip to the desert, but I just dont understand how basically 2 pieces of rubber cost over $200. Maybe I'm missing something?
I agree...I would prefer softer durometer yet and 2 bumps per LCA. If they hold up to UV and repeated compression cycles for years to come then I'm OK with the price. And AFAIK no one has anything like them on the market so I guess they can charge what they need to.
But its a boat load less $ than Light Racing Jounce shocks! But oh how I want those on the front of my rig...but the piggy bank is empty!
Looking great.
Do you notice any difference yet with the Timbrens? Would you buy them again?
Do you notice any difference yet with the Timbrens? Would you buy them again?
FWIW: I would buy them again, front and rear, no question; the difference is significant if you are compressing your suspension to the OEM bump stops.
Thanks again to DesertRun and hoser for their discovery.
Newps: Look'n good!
Thanks again to DesertRun and hoser for their discovery.
Newps: Look'n good!
Man... That underside looks even better than mine..... and I have spent SOOOOO many hours the past couple of weeks cleaning and repainting everything underneath.... Take care of it so it doesnt end up like mine did!!!!!
- Thread starter
- #46
It had some tan Husky floor mats (not the liners) in it when we bought it. They looked like crap, even after I would scrub them with a brush. Black is the way to go, they also look clean.
- Thread starter
- #47
The Light Racing Jounce shocks are sick. I've heard others on here comment that there's no room to mount them? They would also take quite a bit of work dialing them in (compression and rebound settings). The Timbren were a simple install with no adjustments needed. I think for 99% of the people these will work. Spressomon on the other hand falls into the 1% that could really use a set of the Light Racing ones.
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The incredible thing about the Light Racing jounce shocks is how they could be used to really control and aid our short shock travel making the compression side very very controlled and progressive...with a softer say first 1/2-1" of shock travel making washboard virtually disappear. That's not to say Fox/King/Radflo don't make a huge difference...because they do.
We had the packaging figured out. But it requires cutting, grinding, fabbing and welding apart of the process. And its definitely a budget buster but for now I can only imagine how it much positive difference they would make.
Regarding tuning: Easy peasy from an allen wrench...no internal tuning required nor possible.
We had the packaging figured out. But it requires cutting, grinding, fabbing and welding apart of the process. And its definitely a budget buster but for now I can only imagine how it much positive difference they would make.
Regarding tuning: Easy peasy from an allen wrench...no internal tuning required nor possible.
- Thread starter
- #49
The turning of the allen wrench is the easy part. Knowing where to turn it to will take a while
.
Did anyone get the length of the hose clamps needed for the CV boots?
- Thread starter
- #51
I picked up some of the hose clamps at the local West Marine store, less than $3 a piece.
- Thread starter
- #53
Friday night after work I decided it would be a good time to install the rear springs and shocks. I read through a few other rear suspension install threads on MUD and felt comfortable with my game plan. Unfortunately I do not have many pictures to share with you. Shooting suspension pictures at night really does not work well. The item(s) I want to highlight is either blown out from the floor light or obscured by darkness.
The process was pretty simple, first I removed the spare tire. This was a good thing to do anyway since I had never checked it since we bought the truck. In hind sight it was a very stupid thing to not do earlier. In my case there was nothing to worry about; the stock tire was is great shape and doubt it’s ever hit pavement. Tire pressure was a little on the low side at 27 lbs. I decided after reading another build thread that I would work on one side at a time, thus leaving three tires on the ground at all times.
Passenger Side – Shock removal.
1. Block front tires.
2. Remove sway bar bolt.
3. Loosen lower shock bolt.
4. Loosen wheel lugs
5. Jack up truck.
6. Place jack stands under vehicle.
7. Remove wheel.
8. Place spanner wrench on the top shock bolt.
9. Place a floor jack below the rear axle and jack it up so this it’s just barely supporting it.
10. Use pipe wrench on shock body, twist until top nut comes off.
11. Once the top nut is off push down on the shock to compress it, and then remove the bottom of the shock.
One thing I did not realize until after I was done with both shocks is you can access the top nut from the spare tire location. For me, I worked from the wheel well. Sliding my arm up between the frame and the muffler and held the wrench there. Although this worked fine it’s not the most comfortable position. I think you would fine it a much more comfortable to remove the top shock nut from the spare tire location. If anyone has worked from here please post up and let us know if you can access the top shock nuts from here.
Passenger Side – Spring removal.
1. Return to the spare tire location, remove the two bolts that hold the rear brake line to the axle. One bolt is attached to a bracket holding the brake line and the other bolt is just holding the brake line itself. This will give you that little bit of length you will need to slip the rear spring out with out stretching the brake line.
2. Return to the wheel well. Lower the floor jack slowly until you have enough room to slip the rear stock spring out. I had to push down just a little on the axle to slide the spring out. Just keep an eye on the brake line and make sure you are not stretching it.
Passenger Side – Spring install.
1. Locate correct spring, (PS or A), this information can be found on the small white tag located on the spring. One side the of the white tag will read the spring code 865 the other side will read either (PS or A, DS or B).
(*) Note the OME 865 springs, both of them had a tag but the numbers were exactly the same. They were both also the exact same height. I called and spoke with ARB USA about this. They confirmed that for the 865 rear springs they are the exact same height. It makes no difference which one goes where. Other spring models may or may not have a DS or PS specific side.
2. You will find it much easer to install the new OME spring since it's shorter in length then the stock one.
3. Make sure you have it seated correctly in both top and bottom. Rotate the spring until it’s in the right location on the axle side. It’s quite obvious where it need to be once you are looking at it.
Passenger Side – Shock install.
1. Install lower shock mount.
2. Place the correct hardware on the shock body (washer, bushing, and washer) and insert upper shock mount into its mounting hole.
3. Jack up rear axle until the upper shock mount is seated correctly and there are enough threads so that you can get the top hardware on (washer, bushing, washer, nut).
4. The Bilstein shocks have spot on them that you can place a 7/8s open ended wrench on them. This will hold the shock in place while you turn the spanner wrench on the top nut. I am not sure if the OME shocks have this design feature. You may need to use a strap wrench to hold an OME shock while you are tightening the top nut.
5. This is where I wish I knew if you could access the top nut from the spare tire location. I used one hand on the spanner wrench and one hand on the open ended 7/8’s wrench. I could turn the spanner wrench about a quarter turn every time. This is going to take while so get comfortable. Although this took some time it was not the worst job I have ever done. A little uncomfortable “hell yes”, tedious and long “you got it” but not the worst job you will even do. I think I could have breezed through it if I had tried it from the spare tire location, live and learn.
Once the shock is installed use the floor jack some more to get the sway bar links to line up. One thing you will need to do is to check that the links are line up correctly as you jack it up into place. You may need to jack once or twice then check and adjust the links to make sure they are lined up correctly. Again this will make sense once you are doing it.
Now repeat this process all over again on the driver’s side. After you are done with both sides return to the spare tire location and install the two bolts holding the brake lines and the spare tire.
Post lift
The only issue I am having is a height difference between the drivers’ side rear and the passenger side rear. Right now the drivers’ side (rear) is ½ inch higher then the passenger side. I called and spoke with the tech support at ARB USA. Their solution, raise the passenger side torsion bar and thus lower the drivers side rear through opposite side force. I will give this a try this week and report back.
“Before” - Stock rear suspension with the front torsion bars set at 30.5 inches from the bottom of the 18” rim.
“After” – OME 865 rear springs with the front torsion bars set at 31 inches from the bottom of the 18” rim.
Now that all the suspension parts are installed I can order the tires.
The process was pretty simple, first I removed the spare tire. This was a good thing to do anyway since I had never checked it since we bought the truck. In hind sight it was a very stupid thing to not do earlier. In my case there was nothing to worry about; the stock tire was is great shape and doubt it’s ever hit pavement. Tire pressure was a little on the low side at 27 lbs. I decided after reading another build thread that I would work on one side at a time, thus leaving three tires on the ground at all times.
Passenger Side – Shock removal.
1. Block front tires.
2. Remove sway bar bolt.
3. Loosen lower shock bolt.
4. Loosen wheel lugs
5. Jack up truck.
6. Place jack stands under vehicle.
7. Remove wheel.
8. Place spanner wrench on the top shock bolt.
9. Place a floor jack below the rear axle and jack it up so this it’s just barely supporting it.
10. Use pipe wrench on shock body, twist until top nut comes off.
11. Once the top nut is off push down on the shock to compress it, and then remove the bottom of the shock.
One thing I did not realize until after I was done with both shocks is you can access the top nut from the spare tire location. For me, I worked from the wheel well. Sliding my arm up between the frame and the muffler and held the wrench there. Although this worked fine it’s not the most comfortable position. I think you would fine it a much more comfortable to remove the top shock nut from the spare tire location. If anyone has worked from here please post up and let us know if you can access the top shock nuts from here.
Passenger Side – Spring removal.
1. Return to the spare tire location, remove the two bolts that hold the rear brake line to the axle. One bolt is attached to a bracket holding the brake line and the other bolt is just holding the brake line itself. This will give you that little bit of length you will need to slip the rear spring out with out stretching the brake line.
2. Return to the wheel well. Lower the floor jack slowly until you have enough room to slip the rear stock spring out. I had to push down just a little on the axle to slide the spring out. Just keep an eye on the brake line and make sure you are not stretching it.
Passenger Side – Spring install.
1. Locate correct spring, (PS or A), this information can be found on the small white tag located on the spring. One side the of the white tag will read the spring code 865 the other side will read either (PS or A, DS or B).
(*) Note the OME 865 springs, both of them had a tag but the numbers were exactly the same. They were both also the exact same height. I called and spoke with ARB USA about this. They confirmed that for the 865 rear springs they are the exact same height. It makes no difference which one goes where. Other spring models may or may not have a DS or PS specific side.
2. You will find it much easer to install the new OME spring since it's shorter in length then the stock one.
3. Make sure you have it seated correctly in both top and bottom. Rotate the spring until it’s in the right location on the axle side. It’s quite obvious where it need to be once you are looking at it.
Passenger Side – Shock install.
1. Install lower shock mount.
2. Place the correct hardware on the shock body (washer, bushing, and washer) and insert upper shock mount into its mounting hole.
3. Jack up rear axle until the upper shock mount is seated correctly and there are enough threads so that you can get the top hardware on (washer, bushing, washer, nut).
4. The Bilstein shocks have spot on them that you can place a 7/8s open ended wrench on them. This will hold the shock in place while you turn the spanner wrench on the top nut. I am not sure if the OME shocks have this design feature. You may need to use a strap wrench to hold an OME shock while you are tightening the top nut.
5. This is where I wish I knew if you could access the top nut from the spare tire location. I used one hand on the spanner wrench and one hand on the open ended 7/8’s wrench. I could turn the spanner wrench about a quarter turn every time. This is going to take while so get comfortable. Although this took some time it was not the worst job I have ever done. A little uncomfortable “hell yes”, tedious and long “you got it” but not the worst job you will even do. I think I could have breezed through it if I had tried it from the spare tire location, live and learn.
Once the shock is installed use the floor jack some more to get the sway bar links to line up. One thing you will need to do is to check that the links are line up correctly as you jack it up into place. You may need to jack once or twice then check and adjust the links to make sure they are lined up correctly. Again this will make sense once you are doing it.
Now repeat this process all over again on the driver’s side. After you are done with both sides return to the spare tire location and install the two bolts holding the brake lines and the spare tire.
Post lift
The only issue I am having is a height difference between the drivers’ side rear and the passenger side rear. Right now the drivers’ side (rear) is ½ inch higher then the passenger side. I called and spoke with the tech support at ARB USA. Their solution, raise the passenger side torsion bar and thus lower the drivers side rear through opposite side force. I will give this a try this week and report back.
“Before” - Stock rear suspension with the front torsion bars set at 30.5 inches from the bottom of the 18” rim.
“After” – OME 865 rear springs with the front torsion bars set at 31 inches from the bottom of the 18” rim.
Now that all the suspension parts are installed I can order the tires.
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- Thread starter
- #54
Just ordered my new tires from America’s Tire (aka Discount Tire). Nitto Trail Grappler in the 295/70/18 size, they will be here and installed tomorrow. Going to have them Hunter Road Force balanced. They tried to match onlinetires.com price but could not. Since I wanted to have them Hunter Road Force balanced they threw that in for free to make up the difference on the tire cost. There was no shipping charges too since I let them know I could go grab the tires from onlinetires.com. Over all I am happy with my price. I feel kind of bad I did not give the business to onlinetires.com but with the bad reviews I have read about them I was a little hesitant. America’s Tire in Costa Mesa, CA has a 4 out of 5 star rating (51 reviews) on yelp.com and is right around the corner from my house. In the end the positive reviews on yelp.com make me feel like they deserve my business. I like spending my money local if possible and with companies that value good customer service.
OregonLC runs those and loves them!
- Sent from a very small supercomputer.
- Sent from a very small supercomputer.
- Thread starter
- #56
Newps said:He has the Terra's I went with something a little more spicy, the Trail Grapplers
Oh...then you have exactly what I have. Same size and all. Alignment is mega important. I did not get one b/c of all the frequent changes I am making up front and both of my fronts are shot after only a few months. It is worn to the wear indicator on the outside on both tires.
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- Thread starter
- #58
Good info for sure, I will get the alignment done ASAP. I just need to make the pitch weld adjustment and double check my ride height before I get it done. I think I am going to get it done at Firestone so that I can purchase the lifetime alignment option. My 80 needs one too, maybe then will give me a group discount?
Not sure about what the tire stores around you offer, but i got a 5year unlimited alignments and tire balances for about 150 from Tire Kingdom.
I can get an alignment every week if i wanted to, haha.
This is a great option for vehicles like we have where when modding and adding weight and changing the front suspension height to accommodate.
Newps, those are some sweet tires. My buddy is running them. Only downside to them is that most of them are all E rated.
- Thread starter
- #60
So I took your guys advice about see if America’s Tire (aka Discount Tire) would match online tires.com on a set of Nitto Trail Grappler tires. They did their best to match onlinetires.com’s price and came very close with some creative extra incentives. Basically they threw in the Hunter Road Force balancing for free. Onlinetires.com has had some negative reviews online and on IH8MUD.com. The Costa Mesa America’s Tires has earned a 4 of 5 stars rating with 51 reviews, to me that was pretty impressive. I like to give my business to companies that value good customer service. I earn my money locally and like to spend it locally if possible. I arrived on a Friday at 3:30 and was out the door in about an hour. The manger Gary jumped right in with the crew and got to work. The first thing they did was to test fit the tires for clearance issues. Although I had already done my homework these guys were making sure there was not a safety issue. I got to talk with the manager “Gary” while he was balancing my tires. Sure enough the guy had driven on just about every off road tire there was. I appreciate his real world experience not some canned response based on the manufactures ligature. While Gary was balancing my tires three other employees were mounting them on my wheels. It was a scene similar to NASCAR pit stop. It’s just good to see employees that are interested in getting a customer out the door quickly. Gary and I were laughing when it came to balancing the tires. No joke one tire and wheel actually took no weight at all. These tires were really true and round from the factory.
First off these tires look sick on the truck. They are ridiculously quite for a MT tire. They are just barely louder then my 35 inch BFG AT KOs. There is no vibration when cursing and any speed with them. I am totally stoked with these tires. I can’t believe someone was able to make a MT tire with an AT road noise. I still need to make a couple of adjustments to the ride height, pound the wheel well pitch weld back and get an aliment. I’ve attached a couple pictures and will update them with some better ones, the sun is not helping in these.
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