Newps, 295/70R18?
Newps - 2001 LC 100 build thread…..
- Thread starter Newps
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- Thread starter
- #62
You are correct 295/70R18, so happy I stuck to my guns and got this size. I knew I would have regretted it if I went with a smaller size. The truck has no problem spinning these tires, braking however takes a little more effort.
Those tires look great. When and if I get MT's it will be those or the Firestone Destinations.
- Thread starter
- #64
The 100 always looked like a low-rider next to my 80, now it holds it’s own. The lift and tires make this truck look proportionate to its size. It does not look high at all, just perfectly balanced.
I have a 1.5" lift with 33" Nitto TG and I still feel like the truck is a low rider. It is much better than stock but I wish I had just one more inch of lift or so.
- Thread starter
- #66
Yes, I’ve been down that road before with previous rigs. I did not want to make that mistake again. Seems like a month or two later I would wish I had just a little more lift and sightly bigger tires. This time I threw caution to the wind and went for it right from the start.
You have the 865 springs like I do but your truck looks slightly taller than mine. Do you have spacers?
- Thread starter
- #68
No spacers, just the 865 springs and the 3rd row seats removed.
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Looks really nice Tare! I need to swoop down there and take you to lunch in YOUR 100'. 
Nice work man.
Nice work man.
Do you have any issues with rubbing using these tires?
- Thread starter
- #73
I did some final ride height adjustments on Sunday and settled on these ride height measurements.
Front – 30.75 inches
Rear – 31.75 inches
* Measuring from the bottom of an 18” wheel to the top of the wheel well opening.
There is about a 1/8 ride height difference in the rear. This was as close as I could get it. Even if I was able to get it spot on it would not be perfect anyway. There are always going to be slight differences on where the body panels are at rest. Also I had to reshape my front passenger wheel well. In fact it took a couple of us to pull it out and down slightly. So there is no way (at least on my rig) to know exactly if my measurements are spot on.
So now that I had my final ride height dialed in I could get an aliment done. I plan on keeping this rig for a long time so I wanted to go with a national tire chain retailer that offered a lifetime aliment option. Checked on google.com (reviews) and located a Firestone Tire Center around the corner from my work. Reviews were hot and cold but better then the other Firestone by my house. I checked Firestone’s website imputed my vehicles info and it gave me a price of 169.99 for a lifetime aliment option. Called the shop and asked for a quote and got the price of $179.99. I spoke with an Allen and told him what the website said, he was cool about it just said print it up and bring it in. A couple years ago I installed a Slee Off-road relay link and tie rod on my 80 after a little run in with a rock at Area BFE in Moab. I used the tape measure trick to adjust the toe on my 80 but always knew it needed an aliment. I asked Allen what if could do if I brought both of them in. He knocked an additional $30.00 bucks off the 169.99 price. So each lifetime aliment on the 100 and the 80 was 133.99 each not bad IMOP.
The results, the 100 was pretty much dead on. Camber and caster were in the middle of the specified range. The only item that was out of it’s specified range was the Toe. The guys were really cool at the shop too. They let me walk back and hangout in the bay while they were making adjustments. It’s pretty automated system; the computer takes you through the aliment step by step.
The results for the 80 were pretty much the same too. However the Toe not just off but way off. I had the tires pointing way too far out. Different tech this time but still a nice guy. Let me hangout and watch what he was doing. Since Slee machines in adjustment slots on their bars I asked the guy not to use the channel locks. All my tie rod ends are brand new so he could turn the relay and tie rod by hand anyway.
Next up are some new HIR light bulbs I bought on Amazon.com. I should have those this week and will report back with my findings. I also still need to adjust the pitch weld, maybe tonight.
Front – 30.75 inches
Rear – 31.75 inches
* Measuring from the bottom of an 18” wheel to the top of the wheel well opening.
There is about a 1/8 ride height difference in the rear. This was as close as I could get it. Even if I was able to get it spot on it would not be perfect anyway. There are always going to be slight differences on where the body panels are at rest. Also I had to reshape my front passenger wheel well. In fact it took a couple of us to pull it out and down slightly. So there is no way (at least on my rig) to know exactly if my measurements are spot on.
So now that I had my final ride height dialed in I could get an aliment done. I plan on keeping this rig for a long time so I wanted to go with a national tire chain retailer that offered a lifetime aliment option. Checked on google.com (reviews) and located a Firestone Tire Center around the corner from my work. Reviews were hot and cold but better then the other Firestone by my house. I checked Firestone’s website imputed my vehicles info and it gave me a price of 169.99 for a lifetime aliment option. Called the shop and asked for a quote and got the price of $179.99. I spoke with an Allen and told him what the website said, he was cool about it just said print it up and bring it in. A couple years ago I installed a Slee Off-road relay link and tie rod on my 80 after a little run in with a rock at Area BFE in Moab. I used the tape measure trick to adjust the toe on my 80 but always knew it needed an aliment. I asked Allen what if could do if I brought both of them in. He knocked an additional $30.00 bucks off the 169.99 price. So each lifetime aliment on the 100 and the 80 was 133.99 each not bad IMOP.
The results, the 100 was pretty much dead on. Camber and caster were in the middle of the specified range. The only item that was out of it’s specified range was the Toe. The guys were really cool at the shop too. They let me walk back and hangout in the bay while they were making adjustments. It’s pretty automated system; the computer takes you through the aliment step by step.
The results for the 80 were pretty much the same too. However the Toe not just off but way off. I had the tires pointing way too far out. Different tech this time but still a nice guy. Let me hangout and watch what he was doing. Since Slee machines in adjustment slots on their bars I asked the guy not to use the channel locks. All my tie rod ends are brand new so he could turn the relay and tie rod by hand anyway.
Next up are some new HIR light bulbs I bought on Amazon.com. I should have those this week and will report back with my findings. I also still need to adjust the pitch weld, maybe tonight.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #74
Last night I installed my stock skid plates and new low and high beam Philips HIR headlights.
First off I am not too happy with the 5 spacers BIO provided for the front stock skid plate drop. There are just sections of thin walled tube that have been roughly cut to length. You have to get them in place then adjust them so that they are centered on the bolt. This is in my opinion a cheap way to lower the skid plate. I very much doubt these spacer will hold up to any force. Not that the stock skid is a bash plate but it will hold up to a dirt berm. A solid spacer would not cost very much and would be a lot better. I’ve been really impressed with the quality from BIO but this just seems out of character. I am going to source some solid spacers and toss the other ones. While installing the front skid I had to purchase a bolt from the hardware store to attach the large square spacer on the front skid. Not sure if I lost one bolt or if it was just missing from my kit.
The stock rear plastic skid was a pain to get on. The bolts holes did not want to line up. I had to purchase one longer bolt for one of the middle bolts that attach to the diff drop. The stock length ones could not reach the threads in the diff drop. It took a lot of effort but I was finally able to get all 8 of the bolts in and bolted it up. One thing I did notice causing interference with me lining up the bolts holes was the U-bolts for the step sliders. Honestly I do not see any purpose for the stock rear skid plate. This thing is not going to hold up to anything, it’s plastic! Since I know I am not going to wheel this truck hard (for while) I decided to keep it. Maybe this item will help me get my gas mileage back, not!
My new headlight bulbs showed up this week and I was a little anxious to get them in. I purchased them through amazon.com. I got 2 of the Philips HIR1 9011 Standard Headlight Bulb for $17.40 each and 2 of the Philips HIR2 9012 Standard Halogen Headlight Bulb for $19.53. This was the cheapest price I could find on these. When I removed the current ones they were Sylvania’s. Not sure if these are the stock ones or not? Can someone confirm this? In any case I installed the Philips ones on one side (both high and low) so that I could compared them to Sylvania’s (stock?) ones. I also used the Sylvania ones as a template to cut the Philips ones down to size. This was very easy to do, I used a Dremel and made short work of it. You will need to remove the battery to access the driver’s side ones. I suggest you do the passenger side first then remove the battery and do the drivers side ones. The Philips ones were defiantly a lot brighter, both the low and high beams. The Sylvania’s (stock?) low beam was a dull yellow and did not hurt you eyes when you looked at it from 20 feet. If you tried that with the Philips you were blinded, light color changed as well to a bright white. This was the same scenario with the Philips high beams with one exception. The difference in light was even more apparent, the new ones were really producing a lot more light then the Sylvania’s (stock?) ones. Please keep in mind the Philips HIRs are not a HID, so do not expect that type light output. What they are is a reliable and legal upgrade to your stock lighting. I drove around last night and noticed quite a bit of improvement with the low beams. Keep in mind I live in the city where there is quite a bit of ambient light. I think I will really notice a difference when I get away from all of the ambient light sources. The Philips high beams just plain kick ass, I really noticed a difference even with all the street lights. They pretty much just lit up everything for ½ to ¾ of a block. What I really liked was how well they threw light low and to the sides of the road. For $73.86 delivered to your door this is a plug and play no brainier mod.
First off I am not too happy with the 5 spacers BIO provided for the front stock skid plate drop. There are just sections of thin walled tube that have been roughly cut to length. You have to get them in place then adjust them so that they are centered on the bolt. This is in my opinion a cheap way to lower the skid plate. I very much doubt these spacer will hold up to any force. Not that the stock skid is a bash plate but it will hold up to a dirt berm. A solid spacer would not cost very much and would be a lot better. I’ve been really impressed with the quality from BIO but this just seems out of character. I am going to source some solid spacers and toss the other ones. While installing the front skid I had to purchase a bolt from the hardware store to attach the large square spacer on the front skid. Not sure if I lost one bolt or if it was just missing from my kit.
The stock rear plastic skid was a pain to get on. The bolts holes did not want to line up. I had to purchase one longer bolt for one of the middle bolts that attach to the diff drop. The stock length ones could not reach the threads in the diff drop. It took a lot of effort but I was finally able to get all 8 of the bolts in and bolted it up. One thing I did notice causing interference with me lining up the bolts holes was the U-bolts for the step sliders. Honestly I do not see any purpose for the stock rear skid plate. This thing is not going to hold up to anything, it’s plastic! Since I know I am not going to wheel this truck hard (for while) I decided to keep it. Maybe this item will help me get my gas mileage back, not!
My new headlight bulbs showed up this week and I was a little anxious to get them in. I purchased them through amazon.com. I got 2 of the Philips HIR1 9011 Standard Headlight Bulb for $17.40 each and 2 of the Philips HIR2 9012 Standard Halogen Headlight Bulb for $19.53. This was the cheapest price I could find on these. When I removed the current ones they were Sylvania’s. Not sure if these are the stock ones or not? Can someone confirm this? In any case I installed the Philips ones on one side (both high and low) so that I could compared them to Sylvania’s (stock?) ones. I also used the Sylvania ones as a template to cut the Philips ones down to size. This was very easy to do, I used a Dremel and made short work of it. You will need to remove the battery to access the driver’s side ones. I suggest you do the passenger side first then remove the battery and do the drivers side ones. The Philips ones were defiantly a lot brighter, both the low and high beams. The Sylvania’s (stock?) low beam was a dull yellow and did not hurt you eyes when you looked at it from 20 feet. If you tried that with the Philips you were blinded, light color changed as well to a bright white. This was the same scenario with the Philips high beams with one exception. The difference in light was even more apparent, the new ones were really producing a lot more light then the Sylvania’s (stock?) ones. Please keep in mind the Philips HIRs are not a HID, so do not expect that type light output. What they are is a reliable and legal upgrade to your stock lighting. I drove around last night and noticed quite a bit of improvement with the low beams. Keep in mind I live in the city where there is quite a bit of ambient light. I think I will really notice a difference when I get away from all of the ambient light sources. The Philips high beams just plain kick ass, I really noticed a difference even with all the street lights. They pretty much just lit up everything for ½ to ¾ of a block. What I really liked was how well they threw light low and to the sides of the road. For $73.86 delivered to your door this is a plug and play no brainier mod.
Awesome thread!! Newbie Here ..Your LC is coming along really nicely! Excellent source of info .Keep us updated!!
RE: HIRs
Can you explain what you did to "cut them down"?
Can you explain what you did to "cut them down"?
IT takes about 20 seconds. Read this: HIR 9011 and 9012 bulbs are exactly identical in all dimensions to 9005 and 9006 bulbs, except for two areas, the second of wh
Thanks. Paul, oh and the Cree backup lights are great!
Are you running a spacer up front to run those 295's?