Newps - 2001 LC 100 build thread….. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Newps
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- Thread starter
- #82
I read good reviews about the Bilstein’s from other members in the 100 section. I knew I would not be increasing the amount of travel with new torsion bars on the front so the stock length ones would work. I’ve been very happy with them so far. I believe the OME rear shocks are a little longer then the Bilstein’s. So I am more then likely giving up a little down travel.
- Thread starter
- #83
Update:
My truck had developed a starting problem. Basically you would try and start it; it would fire up but then quickly stall. Only way to keep it running was to add some throttle while starting it. This would happen periodically and then go away, so I didn’t think much of it. Then a few weeks ago my “check engine light” came on along with “vcs off” light. This lasted a few days then went away. I did some reading on mud and found out my problem was most likely the throttle body needed cleaning. Also recommended was to clean the MAF (mass air flow) sensor. So last night I finally got around to doing it. Not hard took about an hour with messing around and cleaning some other items under the hood. I definitely notice a difference at start up now. She now fires up quickly and goes right to a smooth idle. As always I should have done this a while ago. The throttle body butterfly was pretty nasty, it had a lot of build up around it. Now it’s all clean and purty.
Update #2
My Timbren bumpstops need the fender washers. Last night durning some sprited driving I rubbed the front passenger tire on the plastic wheelwell liner. I will re-install them tonight and hit that same G-out section of road again. This is only the second time I've touched the plastic wheelwell liners. Last time it was in Pismo while trying to climb a sand dune too fast.
My truck had developed a starting problem. Basically you would try and start it; it would fire up but then quickly stall. Only way to keep it running was to add some throttle while starting it. This would happen periodically and then go away, so I didn’t think much of it. Then a few weeks ago my “check engine light” came on along with “vcs off” light. This lasted a few days then went away. I did some reading on mud and found out my problem was most likely the throttle body needed cleaning. Also recommended was to clean the MAF (mass air flow) sensor. So last night I finally got around to doing it. Not hard took about an hour with messing around and cleaning some other items under the hood. I definitely notice a difference at start up now. She now fires up quickly and goes right to a smooth idle. As always I should have done this a while ago. The throttle body butterfly was pretty nasty, it had a lot of build up around it. Now it’s all clean and purty.
Update #2
My Timbren bumpstops need the fender washers. Last night durning some sprited driving I rubbed the front passenger tire on the plastic wheelwell liner. I will re-install them tonight and hit that same G-out section of road again. This is only the second time I've touched the plastic wheelwell liners. Last time it was in Pismo while trying to climb a sand dune too fast.
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- Thread starter
- #84
Update: So I this weekend I pulled off the two front tires to add the (3) fenders washers to the Timbren bump-stops. I had a feeling that there would be some minor rubbing in the wheel well area. I’ve seen photos of others on here that are running this sized tire and they had some rubbing. Over all I think the photos show the rubbing is very minor at least IMOP.
Upper control arm rubbing in two spots.
Front wheel well, rear frame area.
Upper control arm rubbing in two spots.
Front wheel well, rear frame area.
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- Thread starter
- #85
Here you can see the area on the tire that has been in contact with the frame at full turn.
In this photo you can see where the tire was rubbing the upper control arm. It’s just barely shaved down this one lug in one spot.
This is now self clearanced so there should be no more rubbing. I’m guessing this happened when the tires were fully stuffed at impact in Pismo when I was trying climb the jump contest hill. Very few people were able to crest the hill due to the steep angle of attack at the bottom. Basically everyone (me too) would slam into the face of the sand hill and lose all forward momentum. I’ve since added the three fender washers to the Timbren bump-stops so the chance of this happening again should be further reduced.
In this photo you can see where the tire was rubbing the upper control arm. It’s just barely shaved down this one lug in one spot.
This is now self clearanced so there should be no more rubbing. I’m guessing this happened when the tires were fully stuffed at impact in Pismo when I was trying climb the jump contest hill. Very few people were able to crest the hill due to the steep angle of attack at the bottom. Basically everyone (me too) would slam into the face of the sand hill and lose all forward momentum. I’ve since added the three fender washers to the Timbren bump-stops so the chance of this happening again should be further reduced.
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- Thread starter
- #86
There are two things I can do that should completely eliminate the rubbing. One is a slight adjustment to the turn stops (or just don’t turn at full lock) and the other is a wheel spacer. Since my rubbing is very minor I only need a very small wheel spacer. I found a company that will make me a 3/8 inch spacer that will fit between my stock wheel hub and my rims. This should still leave me with 100% thread engagement with the stock wheel lugs.
This is different that what most people run on here. Most people go up to a 1 to 1.5 inch spacer that has a duplicate number of wheel studs. This type of spacer bolts on to the wheel hub then the wheel bolts to the spacer.
I am trying to keep my tires all the way inside the wheel wells. Trading frame rub for sheet metal contact is not something I want to do. Since this is my daily driver and not my wheeling rig I don’t mind the minor rubbing. If I start doing harder trails with this truck I will install the spacers and adjust the turn stops.
I hope this information helps others who are considering running this tire on these Tundra rims.
This is different that what most people run on here. Most people go up to a 1 to 1.5 inch spacer that has a duplicate number of wheel studs. This type of spacer bolts on to the wheel hub then the wheel bolts to the spacer.
I am trying to keep my tires all the way inside the wheel wells. Trading frame rub for sheet metal contact is not something I want to do. Since this is my daily driver and not my wheeling rig I don’t mind the minor rubbing. If I start doing harder trails with this truck I will install the spacers and adjust the turn stops.
I hope this information helps others who are considering running this tire on these Tundra rims.
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- Thread starter
- #88
Update:
Well it’s been hot here in SoCal the last few days. We hit 86 on Saturday and Sunday. Took the family out for lunch had the front and rear AC on high and the check engine light came on. I figured no biggie; it came on before when I needed to clean the throttle body. After lunch it was still on, drove home (3 miles) and just when I was about to turn it off I noticed the engine temp, pegged in the red, . Popped the hood and could hear the coolant boiling in the radiator. Since the drive was so short I’m pretty sure it did not overheat and the radiator did not boil over. Poked around on mud while it cooled down to see what could be the problem. Narrowed it down to two possibilities, thermostat or fan clutch. Went out and tried to turn the fan blade, it rotated about 1/8 of a turn and came to a stop, most likely ok. Gripped and squeezed both of the upper radiator hoses: the one just past the thermostat was easy to squeeze and felt empty of coolant. The other hose was hard to squeeze and felt like it was full of coolant. This led me to believe a stuck thermostat was the source of my over heating problem. The thermostat is an easy and cheap first option anyway. A quick call to the local Toyota steelership and a 10% TLCA discount (always good to ask) and I was back in 15 minutes with $30 bucks in parts in hand.
Now I searched on Mud and no one had done a write up on how to change out a thermostat. I guess because it is just a basic item to replace no one thought it necessary to write it up. Well kids that’s about change.
Items needed-
1. New Toyota thermostat + a New Toyota thermostat gasket.
2. Large plastic catch container. (see below).
3. About a gallon of 50% mix of Toyota (red or green) coolant and distilled water. ** Check to see what color coolant your engine has. **
4. 10 mm socket with an 8 inch extension.
5. 10 mm open ended wrench.
6. Channel locks
Step 1: Place a large catch basin below the front of your engine. I’ve found these great plastic containers at Home Depot. They are black about 2 ft wide by 3 ft long and 12 inches high. They are used for mixing cement. I use this same container for my oil changes too. It’s the perfect size and catches just about everything that can drip out of your engine bay.
Step 2: Remove plastic engine cover.(unclip the hose on the driver side)
Step 3: Remove the top half of your airbox, (four metal clips).
Step 4: Separate the electrical connection on Mass Air Flow sensor (plastic clip).
Step 5: Remove the three or four tubes that attaches to the large plastic piece that is in between the air filter and throttle body.
Step 6: Remove the two bolts that secure the large plastic piece that is in between the air filter and throttle body.
Step 7: Remove the throttle body inlet tube and remove the entire large airbox to throttle body assembly.
Step 8: Locate the thermostat housing, passenger side tube to lower radiator. Use a pair of channel locks, squeeze and slide the hose clamp down the tube. You will want to slide this clamp far enough down the tube so that with your hand you can grab and hold the tube to wiggle it off the thermostat housing. Get ready for coolant to start pouring out when you remove this tube. I lost about 2 to 3 quarts while I was changing out my thermostat. It all spilled down the front of my engine and went into the large plastic container. I grabbed a couple of paper towels and stuffed’em into the hose end to keep the flow to a minimum.
Step 8: Remove the three nuts that secure the thermostat housing. (More coolant to exit the engine block and radiator tube when this is removed)
Step 9: Remove the thermostat, if yours is stuck in place use the channel locks to remove the thermostat.
Step 10: Install the new thermostat gasket on the thermostat and install into the thermostat housing. Install the thermostat so the "jiggle valve", as the FSM describes it, is located at the 11 to 1 o'clock position in the housing. It allows a little circulation until the thermostat opens.
Step 11: Repeat the previous steps in reverse order. One item to remember is to tighten the thermostat nuts evenly to make sure you get a proper seal. No not over tighten these nuts, just snug them down with the same amount force you felt when you backed them off.
Step 12: After everything is all buttoned up and back to the way you found it. Take a hose and wash down everything that the coolant could have dripped on. If you own any pets keep them away while you are washing the residual coolant away. They have a tendency to like the taste/smell of coolant.
Step 13: Open up your radiator cap and set it to the side. Place a funnel over the radiator and fill it. Keeping the radiator cap off, start your truck and move the interior heat setting to high but keep the fan to off or low depending on your vehicle’s controls. Monitor the coolant level in your radiator it will take a little while for your engine to heat up. Once it does the thermostat will open and the coolant lever in the radiator will drop. Top it off once it does and monitor for a few more minutes to make sure all the air bubbles are out of your coolant system. Turn off the engine and install your radiator cap. Then top off your coolant over flow bottle (if it needs it) and you are done.
** Check coolant level after 50 miles or so and top-off the recovery tank if needed. **
I hope this write up helps anyone else who may have some questions about this process. I learned not ignore my check engine light. I was lucky and only drove a short distance this could have been much worse.
Well it’s been hot here in SoCal the last few days. We hit 86 on Saturday and Sunday. Took the family out for lunch had the front and rear AC on high and the check engine light came on. I figured no biggie; it came on before when I needed to clean the throttle body. After lunch it was still on, drove home (3 miles) and just when I was about to turn it off I noticed the engine temp, pegged in the red, . Popped the hood and could hear the coolant boiling in the radiator. Since the drive was so short I’m pretty sure it did not overheat and the radiator did not boil over. Poked around on mud while it cooled down to see what could be the problem. Narrowed it down to two possibilities, thermostat or fan clutch. Went out and tried to turn the fan blade, it rotated about 1/8 of a turn and came to a stop, most likely ok. Gripped and squeezed both of the upper radiator hoses: the one just past the thermostat was easy to squeeze and felt empty of coolant. The other hose was hard to squeeze and felt like it was full of coolant. This led me to believe a stuck thermostat was the source of my over heating problem. The thermostat is an easy and cheap first option anyway. A quick call to the local Toyota steelership and a 10% TLCA discount (always good to ask) and I was back in 15 minutes with $30 bucks in parts in hand.
Now I searched on Mud and no one had done a write up on how to change out a thermostat. I guess because it is just a basic item to replace no one thought it necessary to write it up. Well kids that’s about change.
Items needed-
1. New Toyota thermostat + a New Toyota thermostat gasket.
2. Large plastic catch container. (see below).
3. About a gallon of 50% mix of Toyota (red or green) coolant and distilled water. ** Check to see what color coolant your engine has. **
4. 10 mm socket with an 8 inch extension.
5. 10 mm open ended wrench.
6. Channel locks
Step 1: Place a large catch basin below the front of your engine. I’ve found these great plastic containers at Home Depot. They are black about 2 ft wide by 3 ft long and 12 inches high. They are used for mixing cement. I use this same container for my oil changes too. It’s the perfect size and catches just about everything that can drip out of your engine bay.
Step 2: Remove plastic engine cover.(unclip the hose on the driver side)
Step 3: Remove the top half of your airbox, (four metal clips).
Step 4: Separate the electrical connection on Mass Air Flow sensor (plastic clip).
Step 5: Remove the three or four tubes that attaches to the large plastic piece that is in between the air filter and throttle body.
Step 6: Remove the two bolts that secure the large plastic piece that is in between the air filter and throttle body.
Step 7: Remove the throttle body inlet tube and remove the entire large airbox to throttle body assembly.
Step 8: Locate the thermostat housing, passenger side tube to lower radiator. Use a pair of channel locks, squeeze and slide the hose clamp down the tube. You will want to slide this clamp far enough down the tube so that with your hand you can grab and hold the tube to wiggle it off the thermostat housing. Get ready for coolant to start pouring out when you remove this tube. I lost about 2 to 3 quarts while I was changing out my thermostat. It all spilled down the front of my engine and went into the large plastic container. I grabbed a couple of paper towels and stuffed’em into the hose end to keep the flow to a minimum.
Step 8: Remove the three nuts that secure the thermostat housing. (More coolant to exit the engine block and radiator tube when this is removed)
Step 9: Remove the thermostat, if yours is stuck in place use the channel locks to remove the thermostat.
Step 10: Install the new thermostat gasket on the thermostat and install into the thermostat housing. Install the thermostat so the "jiggle valve", as the FSM describes it, is located at the 11 to 1 o'clock position in the housing. It allows a little circulation until the thermostat opens.
Step 11: Repeat the previous steps in reverse order. One item to remember is to tighten the thermostat nuts evenly to make sure you get a proper seal. No not over tighten these nuts, just snug them down with the same amount force you felt when you backed them off.
Step 12: After everything is all buttoned up and back to the way you found it. Take a hose and wash down everything that the coolant could have dripped on. If you own any pets keep them away while you are washing the residual coolant away. They have a tendency to like the taste/smell of coolant.
Step 13: Open up your radiator cap and set it to the side. Place a funnel over the radiator and fill it. Keeping the radiator cap off, start your truck and move the interior heat setting to high but keep the fan to off or low depending on your vehicle’s controls. Monitor the coolant level in your radiator it will take a little while for your engine to heat up. Once it does the thermostat will open and the coolant lever in the radiator will drop. Top it off once it does and monitor for a few more minutes to make sure all the air bubbles are out of your coolant system. Turn off the engine and install your radiator cap. Then top off your coolant over flow bottle (if it needs it) and you are done.
** Check coolant level after 50 miles or so and top-off the recovery tank if needed. **
I hope this write up helps anyone else who may have some questions about this process. I learned not ignore my check engine light. I was lucky and only drove a short distance this could have been much worse.
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Nice write up. I think it should be it's own thread and then moved to the FAQ. The older and less expensive the 100 series becomes, the more people will buy them and turn to MUD for sound advice/help with fixes.
Nice write up and ditto the request to put it in FAQ. FWIW: I include a new thermostat, along with other parts, hoses, etc., not typically replaced by a pay for mechanic/dealer, on my 90k PMs...while I'm in there.
Spresso your PM is full... cant send you one.
- Thread starter
- #92
It's been a little while, time for an update.
So back in June of 2013 after about a year of this intermittent stalling problem I decided to see if I could fix it. It only happened in winter which are mild here in SoCal and not very often.
This thread has all the symptoms and a really good description of what happens.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tps-apps-problems.127474/
I replaced the APPS = Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor in June of 2013 and the problem has not come back since.
I followed this thread on how to replace it.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/an-illustrated-guide-to-replacing-your-apps-part-1.265475/
And of course I helped CDan feed his dogs as well
So back in June of 2013 after about a year of this intermittent stalling problem I decided to see if I could fix it. It only happened in winter which are mild here in SoCal and not very often.
This thread has all the symptoms and a really good description of what happens.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tps-apps-problems.127474/
I replaced the APPS = Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor in June of 2013 and the problem has not come back since.
I followed this thread on how to replace it.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/an-illustrated-guide-to-replacing-your-apps-part-1.265475/
And of course I helped CDan feed his dogs as well
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- Thread starter
- #93
So I've had this roof rack sitting on the side of my house for a couple of years. It's a Hannibal Roof Rack for a first generation Jeep Grand Cherokee (ZJ). One of the editors at 4Wheel Drive and Sport Utility Magazine sold it to me. He cut off the top bar so that it was a flat rack. It's made out of aluminum weights nothing. I liked it's size because it's narrower and slightly shorter then other racks. It fits the 100 perfectly not too wide and not too long. I knew mounting it would be a pain because of it's size and I was right. I was able to mount it using some Gamiviti 100 Series mounts that I bent to point inward and some flat stock that I cut, drilled and grinded. The rack is secured to the Gamiviti mounts and the flat stock with some U-bolts that are covered in a black rubber hose. I could have the flat stock welded to the rack and ditch the U-bolts. However I like the ability to move the rack forward or backwards, completely remove it and mount it my 80 or another rig. I cleaned up the rack with a grinder to remove the extra material from upper portion's legs. Then hit the outside edge with a semi gloss back to match my bumpers and sliders.
The before shot, all mounted up before grinding and paint.
The before shot, all mounted up before grinding and paint.
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- Thread starter
- #94
The money shot, rounded the corners with a cut off wheel, then hit them with a grinder. It was a pain to do all six of them (both sides so yea 12 ends) but the results were worth it.
I tilted the lights down as much as I could. It's flat enough to carry surfboards or a sheet of plywood.
I tilted the lights down as much as I could. It's flat enough to carry surfboards or a sheet of plywood.
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Let's see the new rear bumper.
- Thread starter
- #97
I also this year purchased and installed a Bump-it Off-road rear carrier.
Description and photos of my bumper.
Can't tell if the tire or the 4x4 Labs can carrier will hit first?
Steel Core lockable straps keep my gas cans from walking away.
Description and photos of my bumper.
- Bolt-on rear bumper, with rear receiver hitch.
- Driver’s side - spare tire carrier, with standard high-lift & cb antenna mount, upgraded spindle. I like having the spare tire on the driver's side, your visibility is better. Your blind spot is the rear passenger corner, also when backing up you look over your right shoulder.
- Passenger side - 2nd swing-out (with up graded spindle).
- Bolt on dual gas can carrier (Scepter plastic gas) + (add cb/ mount to jerry can holder like the one on the tire carrier) and add another additional cb / flag mount welded to arm. I sold the dual can carrier to Klaus but kept the arm.
- 4x4 Labs triple gas can carrier with a Tuffy Security Box mounted below. This was made for my 80 but it fit perfect on Mike's bumper, only had to drill one hole. In hindsight I should have had it welded on higher for better clearance. However with the cans installed the lower position helps visibility.
- Uncapped ends but I made some plastic covers that work and look great. (Great idea I saw on here)
Can't tell if the tire or the 4x4 Labs can carrier will hit first?
Steel Core lockable straps keep my gas cans from walking away.
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- Thread starter
- #98
Rear hatch clearance.
It's a tight fit but it works. Not sure if you could get a 37 inch tire in here and still close it. Maybe I should have gotten the adjustable tire carrier
.
Only had to drill one extra hole in the arm. I covered the other hole with some black plastic hole caps I found at Ace Hardware.
It's a tight fit but it works. Not sure if you could get a 37 inch tire in here and still close it. Maybe I should have gotten the adjustable tire carrier
.Only had to drill one extra hole in the arm. I covered the other hole with some black plastic hole caps I found at Ace Hardware.
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- Thread starter
- #99
My custom end cap covers, made from plastic. Layonnn gets the credit of this idea (unless he got it from some one else). This works a lot better then having Mike cap the ends. Problem #1 is installing the side wing supports with the ends capped. Problem #2 with ends caps there is still a large gap between the wheel well and the bumper.
A couple of photos of how the rear wing supports attach.
A couple of photos of how the rear wing supports attach.
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Newps, how close is the Hi-Lift jack going to be on the drivers side? I love this bumper config you chose. I might have to replicate this.
