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- #61
Some more photos.
New User in NJ (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter logicbyondreaso
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- Thread starter
- #62
Was it worth the money? Goes fast enough?
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- #64
I was not planning on doing this much work. Prior to purchase everything checked out including the head gasket maintenance. I think for what I paid for the truck plus the cost of repairs I am still happy. I now know this specific truck a lot better and can feel comfortable knowing the repairs I made will last.
My biggest take away is that the people on this forum are super helpful and full of knowledge. My previous Audi forum experiences have been less exhilarating. There are a lot of young kids that don't know much but feel the need to chime in. That makes reading and filtering out useless information very tiring. This forum is super easy to navigate and everyone is very willing to help. Thanks everyone!
Once the injectors are back the project should wrap up rather quickly.
My biggest take away is that the people on this forum are super helpful and full of knowledge. My previous Audi forum experiences have been less exhilarating. There are a lot of young kids that don't know much but feel the need to chime in. That makes reading and filtering out useless information very tiring. This forum is super easy to navigate and everyone is very willing to help. Thanks everyone!
Once the injectors are back the project should wrap up rather quickly.
Hey if I'm not too late, don't buy an aftermarket a/c paperclip. They won't seal properly. Find one from the classifieds that has 0 rust.
FYI, you can also take your existing paperclip (if you have one) that has bad hoses, and take it to a local hydraulic shop, have the hoses replaced, and reinstall.
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- #68
The power steering cooler (paper clip) has rubber hoses with standard spring clamps. Where is the area of concern? #44420 in image below.
Or is the paperclip #44411?
Or is the paperclip #44411?
44420 is the paperclip. And where it sits it will deteriorate eventually.
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- #70
The one I picked up was not bad at all. I repainted it to prolong it's life. Eventually the time will come to replace.
Still interested in knowing why I would need to visit a hydraulic shop? Anything special here? I have new hoses and spring clamps.
Still interested in knowing why I would need to visit a hydraulic shop? Anything special here? I have new hoses and spring clamps.
My 96 has those hoses crimped on, not clipped on on 44420. The paperclip I bought from Toyota ($350) had all of it together with crimped connections, OTHER than the one section of return hose back to the reservoir.
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- #72
Is it possible Toyota changed their design due to failures at the hose-to-cooler connection?
Can anyone else report issues with their paperclip cooler?
Any photos of the crimped on hoses cooler?
Can anyone else report issues with their paperclip cooler?
Any photos of the crimped on hoses cooler?
- Thread starter
- #73
Experts-
I’m finally on the final days of this project. Had some delay with parts and the injector cleaning took almost a month. Gordon at WitchHunter was a one man show during this time frame hence the delay.
Can someone identify this? Airbag sensor? Where is its home and how to secure?
I’m finally on the final days of this project. Had some delay with parts and the injector cleaning took almost a month. Gordon at WitchHunter was a one man show during this time frame hence the delay.
Can someone identify this? Airbag sensor? Where is its home and how to secure?
- Thread starter
- #74
Figured it out: It's the Buzzer/Piezo for alarm system that goes "chirp". Part number 08192-12921 or find on Amazon "Floyd Bell Inc. M-80W".
Link to MFR Site
Link to MFR Site
mingles
GOLD Star
Cool! I found it on mine and it is held in place by definitely "non-OEM" zip ties.
I have aftermarket remote lock/unlock fobs so my guess is that I don't need it anymore. I have never heard a "chirp" out of my truck.
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- #77
Fell of the forum for a little bit. Here is some updates:
Got everything put back together. The engine started up after a few cranks. I'm blown away how quiet it is.
Fixed the Piezo. Now I know I can hear it when it locks/unlocks!
Flushed the engine and radiator. Replaced radiator with Denso 221-9362 due to questionable condition of previous. Direct fit.
replaced front and rear diff fluid.
Adjusted steering gearbox pre-load to remove steering wheel slop.
Installed running boards that I purchased from @RedFive
Fixed the seat motor gears. Both seats now move very nicely!
I've bypassed the front heater core since I know it's leaking. Will address in the fall.
Drove it for about 200 miles and I need to address the front and rear bushings as well as the spring/shocks.
The bushings are beat up and original. I ordered OEM front and should be here in the next week or so. I will do it in stages to see improvements.
When I was timing the engine I noticed that the TDC mark on the pulley sometimes jumps around and not staying in the same spot. Bad wires, cap or rotor? Plugs are brand new from Beno. Also when idling it feels like there is a misfire from time to time. Not every time but noticeable when it does occur. I will be replacing the wires cap and rotor since there is no history when they were replaced.
I am working on selecting shocks/springs. I have front and rear steel bumpers and a winch. Looking at the 850J/863 with L-Shocks. More research to do. I would like a 2-2.5" lift that is level.
Got everything put back together. The engine started up after a few cranks. I'm blown away how quiet it is.
Fixed the Piezo. Now I know I can hear it when it locks/unlocks!
Flushed the engine and radiator. Replaced radiator with Denso 221-9362 due to questionable condition of previous. Direct fit.
replaced front and rear diff fluid.
Adjusted steering gearbox pre-load to remove steering wheel slop.
Installed running boards that I purchased from @RedFive
Fixed the seat motor gears. Both seats now move very nicely!
I've bypassed the front heater core since I know it's leaking. Will address in the fall.
Drove it for about 200 miles and I need to address the front and rear bushings as well as the spring/shocks.
The bushings are beat up and original. I ordered OEM front and should be here in the next week or so. I will do it in stages to see improvements.
When I was timing the engine I noticed that the TDC mark on the pulley sometimes jumps around and not staying in the same spot. Bad wires, cap or rotor? Plugs are brand new from Beno. Also when idling it feels like there is a misfire from time to time. Not every time but noticeable when it does occur. I will be replacing the wires cap and rotor since there is no history when they were replaced.
I am working on selecting shocks/springs. I have front and rear steel bumpers and a winch. Looking at the 850J/863 with L-Shocks. More research to do. I would like a 2-2.5" lift that is level.
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- #78
Two front heater cores. Left: Aftermarket from UK. Right: OEM from a part out. Need to get o-rings.
Engine rinse progress photos. Yellow is a few rinses before it was perfect.
- Thread starter
- #79
New TRE's. Old ones put up a fight.
Old diff fluid.
New radiator.
Old diff fluid.
New radiator.
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- #80
New Toyota front end bushings and hardware arrived.
I decided I am going to go with the OME 2.5" lift using:
(springs/shocks)
Front: 850J/60070L
Rear: 863/60020
I decided I am going to go with the OME 2.5" lift using:
(springs/shocks)
Front: 850J/60070L
Rear: 863/60020
