New User in NJ (2 Viewers)

[logicbyondreaso]

Removed a few additional parts today.
The DEPO headlights have a different plug than OEM. The wires were cut and spliced to work with DEPO. I would have made an adapter so I can go back to OEM. I'd like to fix the wiring so factory lights can be installed. Anyone know the parts numbers for the headlight connectors?
I've started to soak the manifold bolts in penetrating oil. Will try a few more things to get the last stripped bolt out before cutting it. Any tips?

Noticed that the front body mounts will need to be replaced. I note separation from mount.
More work this week as time permits with work. Looking to get the head out by end of the week.

 

[OGBeno]

Harness-side head light connectors:

90980-11095 (low beam)
90980-11096 (high beam)

Splices: 82998-24150

 

[Cass007]

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

I have these and they have worked well removing stripped nuts or bolts. I highly recommend the Kobalt 24V impacts (3/8" & 1/2" drives) from Lowes or Milwaukee impacts as well. They aren't cheap, but man they make quick work of bolts that haven't been apart in 20+ years.

Also, if you can find the Kano Aerokroil penetrating oil, it is great and may help out.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

@Cass007 - Thanks for the tips! I have a set of the bolt grips and gave them a try. Just an awkward spot and it keeps slipping off. I will let it soak a little bit more and try again. I can also try using a chisel to spin it off. It's coming out one way or another!

@beno - Thank you for the part numbers.

 

[bigredmachine]

if you cant get the manifold off of the head id just leave it and take it off with the head out of the truck.

having the manifolds off is a good time to delete the egr, you can fill the egr port with weld, flat grind it and call it a day

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Got the manifold off using the suggestion by @Cass007 Thanks!
The throttle body came off without any issues. Those vacuum lines will all need to be replaced.
Spoke with @beno and ordered the required parts.
How heavy is head + intake manifold. I was recommended removing as an assembly to eliminate fishing out the engine harness. Does the hood need to come off?

 

[OGBeno]

Taking hood off would sure make things a lot easier.

I’d say it’s a good idea.

 

[BILT4ME]

Got the manifold off using the suggestion by @Cass007 Thanks!
The throttle body came off without any issues. Those vacuum lines will all need to be replaced.
Spoke with @beno and ordered the required parts.
How heavy is head + intake manifold. I was recommended removing as an assembly to eliminate fishing out the engine harness. Does the hood need to come off? View attachment 1971381View attachment 1971382

View attachment 1971378View attachment 1971379View attachment 1971380

Well, SOMEONE had it all apart before and slobbered the black sealant on the metal seal on the TB and you can see where it goobered into the TB air opening. 1/8" to 1/4" inside all the way around the opening.

This is one of those things that irritates me and I don't like others working on my junk.

Good Luck!

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Met with @ThomHart this morning to borrow his main crank pulley holder that he fabed up. Looking forward to using it in the next couple days. Thanks Thom!
Made some progress and removed most of the required components minus the head. I listened to everyone's suggestions and opinions on what to do with the main harness. I decided to disconnect from ECU and snake it that way. My reasoning is that the ECU connectors are less likely to be brittle and there are far less of them. Also I was not sure I wanted to disconnect the transmission connectors and all. Took me 10-15 minutes and everything was off. Highly suggest this method for anyone doing this in the future.

Regarding the timing marks on the cams... When #1 cylinder is at TDC which dots are supposed to line up? From what I can tell the FSM says the 1 dot marks in the middle and 2 dot marks on outside. Can anyone confirm? My current setup is backwards if that is true. I checked my #1cyl and its at TDC.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Some more photos

 

[ppc]

The #1 piston reaches TDC twice, once during the exhaust stroke with the exhaust valve open, intake valve closed. The second time will be the compression stroke both valves will be closed. The difference between the cam position will be 180 degrees. Make sure the cams and piston are in the proper sequence.

If the motor was running previously the the cams would have to be in the proper position. My 94 FSM manual is very detailed about cam removal and reinstallation as related to the markings on the can gears.

 

[BILT4ME]

Met with @ThomHart this morning to borrow his main crank pulley holder that he fabed up. Looking forward to using it in the next couple days. Thanks Thom!
Made some progress and removed most of the required components minus the head. I listened to everyone's suggestions and opinions on what to do with the main harness. I decided to disconnect from ECU and snake it that way. My reasoning is that the ECU connectors are less likely to be brittle and there are far less of them. Also I was not sure I wanted to disconnect the transmission connectors and all. Took me 10-15 minutes and everything was off. Highly suggest this method for anyone doing this in the future.

Regarding the timing marks on the cams... When #1 cylinder is at TDC which dots are supposed to line up? From what I can tell the FSM says the 1 dot marks in the middle and 2 dot marks on outside. Can anyone confirm? My current setup is backwards if that is true. I checked my #1cyl and its at TDC.

View attachment 1971815View attachment 1971816View attachment 1971817View attachment 1971818View attachment 1971818View attachment 1971819

It appears from pic #3 that your piston #1 may be at TDC, but it is on the exhaust stroke (180° out) from where it NEEDS to be. Both cam lobes are pointing DOWN toward the valves, indicating the valves are OPEN. That would be INCORRECT.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

@BILT4ME - you were absolutely correct. I took a closer look last night. Another revolution with the crank and everything lined up.
I was able to get the crank pulley bolt out with the help of the pulley holder tool that @ThomHart let me borrow.
I will send out the injectors to get cleaned/inspected and the head once I get it off the block. Hopefully this weekend when some help is available.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Made some additional progress.
-Cleaned the timing chain cover.
-Removed and replaced the oil pump gasket. It was brittle and broken in two places.
-Replaced the main crank seal. Noticed that it was done before and some damage was done to the shaft. Minor but visible. Old seal is made in Mexico. I don't think the scratches are an issue since the seal is what makes it oil tight. Thoughts?
-Removed both cams. Exhaust cam sub and main gears were already not properly lined up... the service bold would not fit. I was able to rotate it and slip in the service bolt on the work bench.
-Head bolts all came out. Look OEM. I was expecting aftermarket based on PO words.
-Head is ready to come out in the next day or Saturday.
-Some parts from @beno came in. Fantastic packaging and thank you for the quick shipping!

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Some more photos:

 

[BILT4ME]

You got new head bolts too, right?

 

[logicbyondreaso]

@BILT4ME - This is what I am deciding. I am not 100% confident these are OEM and if they are I think I should replace them anyway. Though the torque is not high the piece of mind is priceless.

I had an extra hand stop by and we removed the head to expose the culprit. Let the photos do the talking:

 

[BILT4ME]

@BILT4ME - This is what I am deciding. I am not 100% confident these are OEM and if they are I think I should replace them anyway. Though the torque is not high the piece of mind is priceless.

I had an extra hand stop by and we removed the head to expose the culprit. Let the photos do the talking:
View attachment 1972903View attachment 1972904View attachment 1972905View attachment 1972906

These head bolts are stretch type and only get one or two uses. If it was me doing it, I would do new bolts on mine.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Since last post made a little bit more progress. Cleaned up a lot of the gasket material of all the faces and started to tap the bolt holes.
Received new water pump and fan clutch from Amazon. I've also setup an appointment with the local machine shop recommended by @ThomHart . Thanks! - Should be a single week turnaround time.
I also started to work on removing the power steering gearbox. I've tried to use an off the shelf pitman arm puller but noticed the jaws started to deform. I backed off and am soaking in pbBlaster. Any tips? In addition, any tricks to getting the steering column off the gearbox? I removed the bolt but it wont budge.
Had a fun time removing McGard wheel locks. The key was damaged from previous abuse and would not grip. My solution was beating on a socket and using an impact to remove. I did call McGard and have a set of spare keys in the mail for the other wheels.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

An update to the project:
Got the Pitman arm off using a hydraulic press. Been on there for 20+years. No shaft twist noted on splines. Vehicle has never been offroad.
Rebuilt the gearbox. Had some fun with the steel balls inside. Noted that one of the needles for the pitman arm shaft bearing is missing. I checked my entire work area and walked my garage with a magnet. Nothing. Anyone have an old bearing sitting around?
I also prepped and painted the front of the frame under the exhaust manifold, cross member under radiator. and frame under the steering gearbox with POR15. There was some surface rust showing up. After top coat the frame looks oem. No shiny finish like you see in photos below. Everything blended together.
I removed and rebuild the power steering pump. The seals were on their way out. Not a difficult rebuild.
Got the head back from the machine shop. They took off 4thou off the face and adjusted the valves.
PHH was upgraded with constant tension clamps and Samco hose. Note the orientation of the clamps as they will interfere with head installation. I learned this during head installation. New head bolts were used and tightened to FSM spec.
I purchased an oem power steering cooler from another member locally. Pressure tested and painted it.
Water pump was installed.
Thermostat was installed.
Wiring hardness was wrapped with titanium heat wrap near the EGR pipe.
I am now waiting on the injectors to come back from WitchHunter to finish assembly.
During that time I will replace all tie rod ends and stabilizer.
Another issue I ran into - exhaust manifold studs would not hold. Close inspection revealed that helicoils were installed in a number of the stud holes. I will be removing the helicoils and installing time serts.
Exhaust manifolds had some sheared studs inside. I drilled and removed them. Ready for heat shields.