New User in NJ (1 Viewer)

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That would be great if you could provide some information about the machine shop. It's the power steering cooler. Paperclip cooler was removed at some point and a rubber hose installed as a jumper. Not sure why. Trans cooler will be my choice.

they looped out the ps coolas as its way too expensive for what it is I think I priced it out and it was somewhere in the 300 range. just get a generic trans cooler and use that, I ziptied mine to what was left of the paper clip and called it a day.

ill have to ask about the machine shop tomorrow

youll have better luck emailing beno on his site he responded back to me in about half hour when I had a parts question, www.landcruiserpartsandconsulting.com/
 
And I’ve got a locked 96 LC in Belle Mead NJ with just about any tool you need (mine was about as sorted as yours) if you require them. Audi guy too, 2005 allroad with manual and only US stratus blue import.
 
@ThomHart - Look like a good presence from NJ on this forum. Do you happen to have the crank pulley holder tool that you see OTRAMM use in his video to remove crank bolt? If not, I will bump the starter like most of you have done.
I used to have a stage 3 2005 6-speed Allroad in HIghland Green.
Currently have a 2001 S4 Laser Red sedan in the garage.
 
Deepwell impact socket through the inspection hole on the tranny bellhousing 14mm i believe. You will need it to put the crank pulley back on anyway.
 
"HVAC only functions in full hot or full cold. Need to read into this issue. The mixing valve operates to full open and close."

Assuming you have the fancy "AUTO" HVAC system. That'll be fun...
 
Not sure what OTRAMM uses but I have a crank pull holder and 3/4” breaker bar with socket. Made taking off pulley a breeze. PM me if you want to borrow.
 
That would be great if you could provide some information about the machine shop

some of the guys at work have used ryans machine shop when they built their motors.

theres also eddies valve grinding, I do not have any experience with them and I don't know of anyone who does so I cant speak to the quality of their work but they are local and in sayervill Eddies Performance Motors-High Performance Engines, Crate Engine, Racing Engine Builder, Rebuilt Motor: Raritan Street, Sayreville, NJ 08872
 
For the A/C... mine turned on and just froze me out in the summer here in GA. There is a box on the drivers side above your right knee if i remember.. and then there is another that is behind the glove box Pretty sure that is Denso 177332-0452. i found information on it on page AC-146 of the FSM for the LX I am pretty sure. For me I took them both apart and cleaned them with 99% isopropal alcohol but I don't think that is what fixed it. Someone had jammed some sort of air freshener against the box behind the glovebox and the plug was somewhat loose. Pretty sure that was the issue and it has been working fine since.
 
some of the guys at work have used ryans machine shop when they built their motors.

theres also eddies valve grinding, I do not have any experience with them and I don't know of anyone who does so I cant speak to the quality of their work but they are local and in sayervill Eddies Performance Motors-High Performance Engines, Crate Engine, Racing Engine Builder, Rebuilt Motor: Raritan Street, Sayreville, NJ 08872

I was looking into Eddies as well. Will reach out to Ryan's and Eddies to see what they can offer when the time comes. I appreciate the information.

For the A/C... mine turned on and just froze me out in the summer here in GA. There is a box on the drivers side above your right knee if i remember.. and then there is another that is behind the glove box Pretty sure that is Denso 177332-0452. i found information on it on page AC-146 of the FSM for the LX I am pretty sure. For me I took them both apart and cleaned them with 99% isopropal alcohol but I don't think that is what fixed it. Someone had jammed some sort of air freshener against the box behind the glovebox and the plug was somewhat loose. Pretty sure that was the issue and it has been working fine since.

Im not having issues with AC that I can recall but rather the control of temperature other than max cold/hot. I will take a look at the box at knee level after the motor work is done to see what the condition is. Thanks!
 
Finally got the truck into the garage and had a some time to start working. I drained the coolant and removed radiator and fan. Took a closer look at where the leaks are coming from. From what I can tell the biggest one is from the power steering gear box. What do you guys think?

Photo 1: Power steering gearbox
Photo 2: Front of engine around crank pulley. Lots of caked on oil. Fresh oil underneath.
Photo 3: The power steering cooler "bypass". Still scratching my head. Maybe it was a trail fix that was forgotten about.

Parts Missing:
-Power Steering Cooler
-Upper Radiator Mounts (both)
-Battery Box Bolts (2)
-Engine Guard
-Hood Latch Spring
-Exhaust Manifold Heat Shields (2)
-Hood Forward Rubber Seal Buttons (4)
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I spoke to the previous owner and learned that this was the previous "kit" used to do the head gasket a 1.5 years ago. $114 from eBay. Thoughts?

I am going to replace all of those parts including the head bolts.
From the areas that it's leaking I don't think that all the parts of this kit were used and if they were the quality shows.


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I spoke to the previous owner and learned that this was the previous "kit" used to do the head gasket a 1.5 years ago. $114 from eBay. Thoughts?

sure if you like doing headgaskets for fun. just get a head kit from the dealership, itll have everything that you need similar to that kit and yes it will be more expensive but headgasket is something tha ti would want to go oem with.

it looks like maybe the steering box is leaking, are the lines tight? stupid question but my lines started to leak at the box and they were ever so slightly loose, less than a quarter turn and no more leak. when I replaced my box I got a reman from a&w on 35 but I see that their not there anymore :(
 
I will absolutely be using OEM. Just pointing out what the previous owner used as his kit 1.5 years ago.
Good tip on the lines. I will check them later today and report back. That would be a great fix.
I also noticed that it was not ATF fluid in the power steering and possibly a bottle of "stop a leak" was added. I found an empty bottle in the back by the jack.
 
Finally got the truck into the garage and had a some time to start working.

you working on the truck today, im going to be driving through the sea bright/ Monmouth beach area when im done getting my boat on the beach and would be happy to stop over for a quick meet up
 
FYI... In the picture of the crank pulley above the belts to the alternator are routed incorrectly over idler pulley. The belts go to the right and just touch the pulley rather than go around it.
 
FYI... In the picture of the crank pulley above the belts to the alternator are routed incorrectly over idler pulley. The belts go to the right and just touch the pulley rather than go around it.

:bang: Thanks for pointing that out. I need to go over each item carefully.
Removed the forward manifold without an issue. Gasket was toast.
The rear manifold one of the nuts is stripped and wont budge. I think its time to use the dremel.
Valve cover leaking towards rear.
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I have a used power steering cooler came with my 94 when I bought it. Let me know if u want it and I will send it to you.
 

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