New to '40's, New to forum...what to do first?

[jamba256]

Is replacing the quarter panels particularly difficult?

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

Is replacing the quarter panels particularly difficult?

That depends on your skill level but we've all got to start somewhere... That being said it's not horribly difficult it is just a fairly tedious process and usually leads to while I'm cutting out the quarter I should do this, and this and this and come to think of it maybe I should just pull the body off and do a complete frame off resto. Try to do repairs that won't take it off the road for more than a weekend or at the most a week that way you get to enjoy it.

EDIT: there are a lot of builds on here with rear quarters being replaced to use for reference

 

[John Smith]

Is replacing the quarter panels particularly difficult?

Not really. It has been covered in depth in many threads here. First weld in bars to keep the tub aligned, then drill a bunch of spot welds out and cut off the sides keeping only the upper rail area depending on amount of rust. Vendors sell pre-cut and bent sides, or you can do what many have done and cut and bend your own sides. You open the whole can of worms though. Do you also replace the floor and wheel wells while you are there? Now would also be the time to take care of the rear sill. Then you are well on your way to a total tub resto...

Focus on your mechanicals first. I would drive the bondo rust bucket for at least a year before you tear into it. If you don't bond with the truck first, it will be very easy to get overwhelmed and walk away from the work it will take to repair that truck.

 

[jamba256]

Well I totally will. The mechanicals are solid but I'm afraid of the frame be in two rusted. The only things I wanted to do was take off the top and add larger weeks and the 2.5" ome lift. So I am afraid the rust is preventing me from taking the top off and adding a lift. Depressing.

 

[John Smith]

Well I totally will. The mechanicals are solid but I'm afraid of the frame be in two rusted. The only things I wanted to do was take off the top and add larger weeks and the 2.5" ome lift. So I am afraid the rust is preventing me from taking the top off and adding a lift. Depressing.

My 79 had bad flake rust on the frame also, it was the first thing I tackled. I spent quite some time working my way down both frame rails chipping away all the flakes until I got to solid steel. The boxed parts of my frame were completely packed full of dirt, top to bottom. I cleaned all that out. Once I got down to solid rusty steel I found I had plenty of steel left. Steel is much stronger than you think. I thoroughly cleaned the frame, did acid etch, then hit it with two coats of POR15 and top coated it. Fifteen years later it is still going strong.

The rust shouldn't prevent you from removing the top or installing a lift and tires if you wish, it didn't stop me. People have brought back trucks worse off than yours from the dead. These trucks have to be pretty far gone to not be fixable.

 

[jamba256]

And I totally understand what you're saying about the resto, but I definitely want to continue

 

[jamba256]

Okay, so I have decided to do framework this weekend. There is a guy near where I live here in VA who is selling a rough country suspension in the packaging for 300 bucks. I was looking at this but all the reviews I could find tell me that the ride is tremendously rough and that 4" lifts require some drive shaft angle modification an longer brake lines. Should I continue or just save for an OME or HFS lift?

 

[toomanytoyzz]

The old saying applies here...."you get what you pay for."

I would personally go with a OME lift kit if you can afford it. Rough Country named the kit appropriately.

 

[jamba256]

Ok well I have two options that are affordable, if anyone can please weigh in. A guy from craigslist is selling a MAF reverse shackle kit and Rough Country 4"lift with springs and shackles for 450. Or he is selling original factory leaf springs, " lightly used" for 100. So, as a result I would get maf greasable shackles and bilstein 5100 shocks and hopefully run 31" tires. I want a cruiser that will run on that road well, as well as off road, but no rock crawling or anything. Please advise.

 

[Chamba]

Ok well I have two options that are affordable, if anyone can please weigh in. A guy from craigslist is selling a MAF reverse shackle kit and Rough Country 4"lift with springs and shackles for 450. Or he is selling original factory leaf springs, " lightly used" for 100. So, as a result I would get maf greasable shackles and bilstein 5100 shocks and hopefully run 31" tires. I want a cruiser that will run on that road well, as well as off road, but no rock crawling or anything. Please advise.

Rough country are rough; not as bad as welding your axles to the frame but not far from it. OME are the best ride that I know of. A 4" lift with 31" will look like a skateboard. You'll also get lift from the shackle reversal.

As to your fiancée's habit of calling your Cruiser an fj: tell her the diesels are called bj40 and bj42. Make her promise that if you get a diesel she will call that your bj.

 

[jamba256]

Ha ha thanks chamba. Yea I will certainly make that pact with her. Wanted a diesel anyway...


But I was referring to 31" tires on the stock springs with the reverse shackle kit. Would that be a good cheap alternative, or should I wait for the ome and put on 33" like I wanted?

 

[Chamba]

The shackle reversal is great if you don't plan to tighten up the front end. I've found that if you replace all your bushings, tie rod ends and bell crank, you don't need the shackle reversal. Since you've got power steering, that thing should drive one fingered on the road with new tie rods.

I'm partial to OME and to 33" rubber, so I would vote to wait. However, if what you've got now is really bad, get what you need to get her on the road and start enjoying it.

 

[jamba256]

thanks a ton chamba.
Unfortunately, I started driving today and every time I got into second or third gear, the exhaust or engine would pop very loudly...what the hell is that? Backfiring? It sounded like it came from the drivers side fender area, but there were no structural components broken, and the correlation is pretty much just to accelerating. I also think the timing is off or not all cylinders are firing...please help

 

[jamba256]

The haynes manual says "if the engine starts but runs unevenly and misfires, it could be: ignition and or fuel system faults, incorrect valve clearances, burnt out valves, or worn out piston rings"

What should i start with, as far as diagnosis goes?

 

[jamba256]

Essentially, the problem is that I don't have a garage or big tool kit, so all of these potential issues aren't that easy for me to fix, even if I could just replace everything. Misfiring is a pretty common issue with engines in general, but I don't really know what to look at first to minimize cost and to know what specific parts to buy.

 

[John Smith]

What is your timing set to? You will need a timing light for this if you don't own one. Backfiring is usually caused by timing being off and either too little or too much fuel. Your valves could also be way out of adjustment and cause this. Despite the backfiring does the truck accelerate well or is it a dog?

 

[jamba256]

John, I actually don't know how to check what the timing is. I have some mechanic friends who suggested I replace the distributor cap and rotor, as well as spark plugs and cables. Does this make sense before I get anymore in depth?

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

Yes to all of the above and add a fuel filter in there as well. You can get a timing light starting at 40$ an up from any auto parts store.

 

[jamba256]

How do I know if hub seals are leaking or it is something worse?

 

[DSRTRDR]

you need to post pics for us to give meaningful advice

also, get yourself a factory service manual for your year truck and learn how to use Specter Offroad's website so that you can look at the exploded parts drawings

as fas as the hub leaking, if it drips, yeah, it leaks