New to '40's, New to forum...what to do first?

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I was plan in on buying it, guess I'll get it sooner than later. Got the haynes manual from my wife and it has been working great, but I suppose not that comprehensive.

What's worse than a hub seal leak? Should I get the axle rebuild kit and go to work? Thanks, claudia.
 
if I recall correctly, you may also have a leaking inner seal - post a pic

what means "worse" ? - it's not a difficult job as such, just messy, and you best be methodical about it

you'll need a 54mm hub nut socket - which you can get on Amazon or from Kurt when you buy the axle rebuild kit from him - http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/ - great vendor - he also sells the Marlin inner axle seals now
 
Hey all, I'm sorry I haven't updated in a long time. I have been delaying any major work until I had more funds, an now I think I have sufficient funding to proceed. I want to ( in order):

Replace hub seals
Reinforce frame
Add ome lift and suspension
Add larger tires and alloy wheels
De rust and undercoat

Well, as you all know, I have a ton of rust from this cape cod cruiser, so I need to/ want to make sure she is structurally sound. Below is a picture of the frame attachment holding the bumper...it is corroded through. How do I repair this? What needs to be done since the rest of the frame isn't nearly this bad?

Also is a photo of the driver front wheel... hub seal as I asked about before?

Thanks again all for the help.

Jamie
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ForumRunner_20130919_162653.webp
 
You should be able to get a set of OEM bumper brackets from a lot of guys on here who have parted out cruisers in the past. I may even have a pair on my parts truck, but I forget what kind of shape they are in. I'll check over the weekend and let you know. Looks like you'll have to do some repairs in the front frame rails as well, but you need to get the brackets off and see what it looks like underneath....."and I say unto thee, Openeth the Caneth of Wormeths!!" All kidding aside make sure you are up on your tetanus shot.
 
awesome, thanks man! I also found some on SOR so if you can't find anything I'll hit them up.

I am thinking about a new alternative to an HFS or OME lift...I know someone who has a set of original height springs..thinking of getting 2.5" shackles and bilstein shocks...does this even make sense.
 
also, I have looked this topic up on the forum but I never really found a definitive consensus...is it SAFE to fit BF goodrich AT mud terrain 33x10.5x15 on the original grey steelies? I love them so I would like to keep them. I've heard it was a dangerous fit.
 
I heard good things about hell creek before they took a hiatus...now I've talked to tom from HC and he says they have a new spring manufacturer. Does anyone know if they still have the same leaf spring length issues?
 
Does any of this sound logical? Sorry I've been out of the game for a little bit. Most all of the questions I am asking I've researched already... is the driving unstable on the road with a 4 inch lift?

And does that photo of the wheel show that I need new knuckles or hub seals? Should I replace the wheel bearings too?
 
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jamba256 said:
also, I have looked this topic up on the forum but I never really found a definitive consensus...is it SAFE to fit BF goodrich AT mud terrain 33x10.5x15 on the original grey steelies? I love them so I would like to keep them. I've heard it was a dangerous fit.
Click to expand...

Yes, they fit fine and are safe.

jamba256 said:
I heard good things about hell creek before they took a hiatus...now I've talked to tom from HC and he says they have a new spring manufacturer. Does anyone know if they still have the same leaf spring length issues?
Click to expand...

I would first determine if your frame is sound before wasting any money on new springs. The limited pictures you have posted show serious frame rot.

jamba256 said:
Does any of this sound logical? Sorry I've been out of the game for a little bit. Most all of the questions I am asking I've researched already... is the driving unstable on the road with a 4 inch lift?

And does that photo of the wheel show that I need new knuckles or hub seals? Should I replace the wheel bearings too?
Click to expand...

In my experience driving is not unstable with a 4" lift, or SOA.

That photo tells me your inner axle seal has failed and you have a knuckle filled with Birf soup. When you pull the hub you can inspect the wheel bearings and replace if necessary. Replace the inner seal with the Marlin's upgraded version.
 
thanks for the assistance. Does this mean that I will probably need new birfield shafts also? The frame is not terribly rusted. The corrosion of the bumper bracket is pretty much the only part that's thin at all. The other parts have been kept pretty greasy.
 
jamba256 said:
thanks for the assistance. Does this mean that I will probably need new birfield shafts also? The frame is not terribly rusted. The corrosion of the bumper bracket is pretty much the only part that's thin at all. The other parts have been kept pretty greasy.
Click to expand...

Your birfs should be fine, they are covered in a nice soup of gear oil and grease.
 
John,

Thanks a ton. I'm going to call cruiser outfitters an talk to Kurt about getting the right parts and tools. I don't know if I should work on this at my apartment or not...probably at the self serve shop on the Navy base would be best. The replacement seems very tedious.

I have a lot of basic questions, like how do I replace the bumper brackets, since they look riveted on or something, but not bolted. I also am going to look up these things, but I don't know which fluids to replace since I haven't done anything since I drove it back from Cape Cod four months ago, in moderate mechanical shape. I also want to rust proof the frame, assuming I should use POR 15 or Rust bullet, but I've read other things too. I would LOVE to do a frame-off restoration, but I don't have the time, location or money right now. The frame is doing okay but I need to prevent any more corrosion from occurring. I've heard bad things about POR but that could have just been that people did the surface prep work poorly.

My tool bag is large but limited in specialized tools, the quarter panels and sides of the hard top have corroded through pretty severely, but there is diamond plate holding it in. It keeps the water out and the inside of the bed and floor pans are good to go.

I want to start with the frame preservation, go to a lift and replace the hub seals and make sure its not leaking anything serious...and then move to phase two, involving body work.

Overall, Ramona, as I've named her, is running strong, but I don't have a "check engine" light to rely on. Hard to tell what to do since the people I bought her from were nice but didn't know about the condition of the drive train and motor. At this point, what should I do?

Thanks again to all,

Jamie
 
Help...

I did an oil change today with the recommended 8.2 quarts, but didn't change the like filter as I planned since I couldn't get it off...the engine sounds like it is operating at lower rpms and just doesn't sound normal. I look at the dipstick and it is much past full...what does overfilling a 2F engine sound like/ do?

Should I replace the oil filter and dry start to use the excess oil ( if that makes sense)? Thanks again...


Jamie
 
A little too much oil won't hurt a sturdy engine. Seriously overfilling can damage your engine. Hope you haven't kept it running for too long. Drain excess oil and try again.

One way of removing a stuck oil filter is hammering a screwdriver thru it and apply force on that. But try only after using a egular chain or strap. Since when the oil filter is punctured you're truly comitted
 
Also, (but this is just me, venting my own opinions and beliefs)

I love POR 15 to death. Just remember to degrease properly. I use brakecleaner a lot
Before you start the knuckle rebuild, i would measure the hub nut. Just to make sure you get right socket. Mine was 52 mm, while the experts (not MUDDERS) promised ist was 54mm. And replace the wheel bearings while you're there. They're not expensive. And it will save you digging in to the hubs for a second time

Best of luck
 
Thanks so much for the info. I drained a bit, but the dipstick just isn't that accurate...the whole thing was covered in oil, after an extremely accurately measured 8.2 liters of 20w-50 valvoline premium.

I put the oil filter on too...will update soon. Thanks again, good sir.
 
Go into the Classifieds section and post a thread for Want to Buy bumper brackets. Someone will have a nice used pair you can clean up and paint. Unless you want brand new I would not go with SOR. I bet you could pick some up for half the price. I have had great luck with used parts on this Forum.
 
Did not see the end of your post. Yes they are riveted on. Not a huge deal to get off. Either drill the center out or heat up and chisel off. A little sweat and you will have them off in no time. I would replace the rivets with a good stainless high grade bolt nut and washer.
 
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