- Thread starter
- #61
The thing is that my cruiser isn't nearly as bad as some people's...but I feel overwhelmed every time I look at it.
New to '40's, New to forum...what to do first?
- Thread starter jamba256
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Do yourself a favor. Go over it and start putting together a list of things that need fixing. Prioritize it based on safety and driveability. Then use the list to break it into manageable projects. After I bought my (rough) 75, I was in the same boat you are - thinking "what the heck did I just get myself into...then I built an enormous spreadsheet and broke it up into smaller projects, and got to work! Then you can literally "check off" a repair, and pat yourself on the back. Remember with an FJ40, if you fix a part, that part will most likely outlive you, so do it once, do it right, and drive!
I'd be happy to send you over my sheet if it will help you wrap your head around it. Just PM me. Oh yeah, and USE MUD, and the people on it - it is by far and away the best resource we all have.
I'd be happy to send you over my sheet if it will help you wrap your head around it. Just PM me. Oh yeah, and USE MUD, and the people on it - it is by far and away the best resource we all have.
- Thread starter
- #63
Thanks a ton, that's a very logical approach. Clearly. If I had a bunch of cash, I would buy many tools and not have to rely on the navy hobby shop for a lift and diverse set of tools. But that's where I am, and I would love the checklist just to see your thought process. Thanks everyone, as always.
Crap! Saw this a couple hours too late - I'm off to Minnesota for the week on business and the spreadsheet is back home. Shoot me a PM with your email address and I'll send it your way when I get back on Friday.
Start a second checklist of jobs you are pretty darn sure will be easy/within your reach, when you order stuff for a harder project, get stuff for one of those two, finishing those every other project or so will keep you from getting demotivated....
For instance i changed out all my bulbs to LED a few at a time, hooked up a CB, inside fans, etc...
Cal-
For instance i changed out all my bulbs to LED a few at a time, hooked up a CB, inside fans, etc...
Cal-
- Thread starter
- #66
So, thanks you guys, a ton. I've started on my list but I feel like I need a more experienced mechanic to give me an opinion regarding what might be wrong that I can't determine. I posted some photos above and I don't really know what might be making the rear differential look like its leaking out of some bolt, but there's no fluid on the ground. Should I take it to someone for a comprehensive list or hope for the best? We have a very expensive restoration place in Hampton Roads, but I don't know what he would do for me.
Did you check the fluids in the diff? The stain you see could be from the PO changed it and emptied the diff. Old gear oil is some nasty sh!t
!!
!!
These are not overly complicated vehicles. In fact they're pretty simple. Any mechanic worth his salt should be able to tell you everything you need to know/fix/repair. Honestly, I'd just post pictures up here and see what people think. Pictures speak volumes as to the issues to be addressed.
The differential "leaking" from a bolt sounds like a bad seal. It may just be slight "seepage" that isn't leaking enough to give you a noticeable puddle on the floor. My Front differential does this. Just check the diff fluid and make sure it isn't dry.
The differential "leaking" from a bolt sounds like a bad seal. It may just be slight "seepage" that isn't leaking enough to give you a noticeable puddle on the floor. My Front differential does this. Just check the diff fluid and make sure it isn't dry.
- Thread starter
- #69
No, I have the haynes manual...will it show me how to do that?
- Thread starter
- #70
@rwbearinger I will check. That sounds better. Fluid level checks under the hood are sat but I keep hearing a squeak from the front axle when I drive at low speeds. I also need to check to see if the front hub seal is bad or if it is a differential issue. At the moment, the body stuff is taking a back seat.
Does anyone ever use a cover? I've looked on the forum and the CCOT cover seems to Enroute the same as walmart's, but I need a waterproof one I think. Any suggestions there? Thanks again for the assistance, to all.
Does anyone ever use a cover? I've looked on the forum and the CCOT cover seems to Enroute the same as walmart's, but I need a waterproof one I think. Any suggestions there? Thanks again for the assistance, to all.
One word of advice - if you're going to drain and change the diff oil while you're down there, always open the fill plug first! If its seized and you've already drained the oil you are in trouble!
Squeaks and rattles from these trucks are constant, and mostly unstoppable. You'll go mad trying to hunt them all down. I'd worry more about constant whining, grinding, or vibrations from the drivetrain. We'd need more info on the nature of the squeak to determine how concerned you should be.
Regarding covers - they are a curse and a blessing. They keep the majority of standing water off, but water that runs under the cover, the evaporates, gets stuck under them, effectively turning your cover into a truck sauna - the truck never dries out - which actually makes the rust worse. Long story short, I'd put it on when it rains, and take it off when the skies clear up. That or get an expensive, breathable cover...
I've heard covers designed for Jeep CJ7's will work for a FJ40.
Just my 2 cents - hope it helps!
Squeaks and rattles from these trucks are constant, and mostly unstoppable. You'll go mad trying to hunt them all down. I'd worry more about constant whining, grinding, or vibrations from the drivetrain. We'd need more info on the nature of the squeak to determine how concerned you should be.
Regarding covers - they are a curse and a blessing. They keep the majority of standing water off, but water that runs under the cover, the evaporates, gets stuck under them, effectively turning your cover into a truck sauna - the truck never dries out - which actually makes the rust worse. Long story short, I'd put it on when it rains, and take it off when the skies clear up. That or get an expensive, breathable cover...
I've heard covers designed for Jeep CJ7's will work for a FJ40.
Just my 2 cents - hope it helps!
- Thread starter
- #72
These are particular parts which I'm concerned about leaks or seal failures. I don't know what looks right, since I know there will be leaks.
- Thread starter
- #73
And this frame/ body connector and rubber damper look rusted and rotted. Do I have to take the tub off the frame to repair? And is it an issue?
I always classify loss of fluid by the amount loss. A leak can look bad because it collects in an area and dust settles there and makes it look worse. A leak that drips and marks a spot on the floor is of more importance to me. If it leaks while it is sitting still, you can only guess what it is doing while it's riding around.
Just thoughts.
There appears to be some serious FJ cancer there!
At risk of sounding like Captain Naysayer (equipped with Negativity Shield) - be prepared to spend some serious dollars! (Unless you have the friends, tools, support equipment and time.)
I personally underestimated the cost of work on my truck (I don't have the means to do intrusive work, so it cost me via third parties.)
If you're enamoured with the FJ series, you will do just fine and treat it as a labour of love (using the aforementioned mini-project schedule.) (And you will see returns!!)
If you're not quite committed, the project will suck out your life (perhaps over dramatisation?) and most definitely your pocket.
Forgive me if I missed it, but this isn't proposed to be your daily driver is it? (At least, not right now?)
Apologies for what above may appear as an egg-sucking narrative. Just don't want you underestimating the journey.
Tamey
At risk of sounding like Captain Naysayer (equipped with Negativity Shield) - be prepared to spend some serious dollars! (Unless you have the friends, tools, support equipment and time.)
I personally underestimated the cost of work on my truck (I don't have the means to do intrusive work, so it cost me via third parties.)
If you're enamoured with the FJ series, you will do just fine and treat it as a labour of love (using the aforementioned mini-project schedule.) (And you will see returns!!)
If you're not quite committed, the project will suck out your life (perhaps over dramatisation?) and most definitely your pocket.
Forgive me if I missed it, but this isn't proposed to be your daily driver is it? (At least, not right now?)
Apologies for what above may appear as an egg-sucking narrative. Just don't want you underestimating the journey.
Tamey
- Thread starter
- #76
Thank you; I do understand those things and I have worked on many things before, and my fiancée and I are willing to put money into it. The point was to fix an fj, not buy a perfect one. It is something we really are both looking forward to, and I did some of this week already.
However the point of those pictures was to diagnose what was wrong in them. Can anyone help me out?
However the point of those pictures was to diagnose what was wrong in them. Can anyone help me out?
Last edited:
Hey jamba - based on the shape of the moisture spot on your differential, it almost looks like the crush-washer "seal" behind the fill plug has failed. Easily fixed with a new crush washer.
Not entirely sure where the other leaks are coming from - looks like you might have one at the 2WD-4WD shift shaft and another from the nose cone or the shift pod. The transfercase has a ton of seals - both rubber and paper gaskets. It's a bit of a bear to get down and reseal but, aside from being labor intensive, it's not terribly expensive to reseal. I think Kurt @ cruiser outfitters sold me a reseal kit for something like $20...
If you do drop it, obviously check the gear teeth for wear and make sure none of the bearings are wining, binding, or rattling badly. Last thing you want is to drop the case, reseal, put it back in, an have a bearing go bad a month later!
Not entirely sure where the other leaks are coming from - looks like you might have one at the 2WD-4WD shift shaft and another from the nose cone or the shift pod. The transfercase has a ton of seals - both rubber and paper gaskets. It's a bit of a bear to get down and reseal but, aside from being labor intensive, it's not terribly expensive to reseal. I think Kurt @ cruiser outfitters sold me a reseal kit for something like $20...
If you do drop it, obviously check the gear teeth for wear and make sure none of the bearings are wining, binding, or rattling badly. Last thing you want is to drop the case, reseal, put it back in, an have a bearing go bad a month later!
- Thread starter
- #79
Ha I used to focus on semantics like that until my fiancée called it "the fj" all the time. So, I'm kind of apathetic now
- Thread starter
- #80
Another question, if I want to get some replacement quarter panels, what is the top part that the top seals to and the quarter panel welds to? It's not part of the frame but it is a different part than the quarter panel. I'm specifically talking about the panels that cool cruisers of texas sells.
Also, how do I know if my frame is too rusty or unstable to put a suspension lift on? I only plan on going with 2.5 inch and 31 inch tires but I can't tell if that would stress the hangers too much or not.
Also, how do I know if my frame is too rusty or unstable to put a suspension lift on? I only plan on going with 2.5 inch and 31 inch tires but I can't tell if that would stress the hangers too much or not.