New style rear control arms that will offer better and smoother articulation

[LandCruiserPhil]

I purchased a set of the SPC rear lower arms from Slee a few months ago. Granted I replaced stock arms, but the difference is noticeable. I mounted the sealed flex joints at the frame. Slee states it doesn't matter, but suggests this to get the joint out of the muck as much as possible.

Zero increase in noise/vibrations here.

Can you confirm the opposing end on the SPC arms is a rubber bushing not poly as stated on slees site? If this is accurate is the bushing bonded to the holder? Can the center where it bolts rotate or is also bonded more like a factory style bushing?

The SPC site does not offer any info on the rubber bushing they use on there control arms.

 

[MDJ]

Nothing poly on the arms. The rubber bushing looks to be pressed in from what I recall. Similar to factory style bushings. No rotation of the inner sleeve from what I remember either.

I remember that much because I wouldn't have bought them if they were a poly bushing. The caster correction bushes I pressed out of my radius arms were squeaky and drove me nuts.

Perhaps I can snap a few pictures of the rubber end of youd like? Would need to tackle that at a later point, but would be happy to.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Nothing poly on the arms. The rubber bushing looks to be pressed in from what I recall. Similar to factory style bushings. No rotation of the inner sleeve from what I remember either.

I remember that much because I wouldn't have bought them if they were a poly bushing. The caster correction bushes I pressed out of my radius arms were squeaky and drove me nuts.

Perhaps I can snap a few pictures of the rubber end of youd like? Would need to tackle that at a later point, but would be happy to.

Thanks for the feedback I will be given SPC a call and get the details they failed to post on the rubber bushings

 

[maxamillion2345]

I would not use 1.5" for lower links. Step it up to 2"

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I would not use 1.5" for lower links. Step it up to 2"

Correct Im on 1.75" x .375 now no reason to go backwards
Possibly go with the over the counter SPC links and sleeve them

 

[SmokingRocks]

Forgive me I didn't read any of the responses, just the OP.

Until recently I had been running the SPC rear LCA's with the flexy joints for the last two years. Here are my thoughts on the flex joints specifically

• they stood up to a lot of abuse and are still in good shape
• they seem to isolate / dampen shock better than a Heim joint
• they last longer than heim joints
• cool design

Let me know if you want my full opinion on the SPC LAC's

 

[SmokingRocks]

The SPC site does not offer any info on the rubber bushing they use on there control arms.

Probably because they aren't Toyota quality, mine vaporized after two years of use. I can take some photos of them tonight if you want to see what they look like up close.

My rig is on TJM heavy 4" springs and OME L shocks. The rear UCA's are man-a-fre adjustable's with heim's (plenty of opinions on those too). Now I have stock OEM LCA's with fresh toyota bushings.

Honestly I didn't notice any lost of or change in articulation when I swapped my OEM LCA's back in.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Forgive me I didn't read any of the responses, just the OP.

Until recently I had been running the SPC rear LCA's with the flexy joints for the last two years. Here are my thoughts on the flex joints specifically

• they stood up to a lot of abuse and are still in good shape
• they seem to isolate / dampen shock better than a Heim joint
• they last longer than heim joints
• cool design

Let me know if you want my AC'full opinion on the SPC Ls

absolutely

 

[SmokingRocks]

• Cool Design
• Awesome Flexy Joint (although I didn't notice any difference in axle articulation vs stock OEM, perhaps you might see a minor gain on a felx test like Metal Cloaks CTI trailer)
• The tubing isn't thick enough to resist bending / banana'ing
• The other bushing is just not great, perhaps better than rock auto bushings but its not Mr. T quality and it didn't last more than 1.5 years on my rig
• SPC has great customer service, they replaced a LCA that I bent after only 1 week on the truck.

Overall they are a nice OEM replacement option but I wish they were more. The flexy joint is sweet but not sure if it actually helps. They aren't strong enough on their own to resist pretzeling and the life of the other bushing sucks.

Not sure I'd buy again, I think I could fabricate something stronger while adding the ability of length adjustment for the same cost.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

• Cool Design
• Awesome Flexy Joint (although I didn't notice any difference in axle articulation vs stock OEM, perhaps you might see a minor gain on a felx test like Metal Cloaks CTI trailer)
• The tubing isn't thick enough to resist bending / banana'ing
• The other bushing is just not great, perhaps better than rock auto bushings but its not Mr. T quality and it didn't last more than 1.5 years on my rig
• SPC has great customer service, they replaced a LCA that I bent after only 1 week on the truck.

Overall they are a nice OEM replacement option but I wish they were more. The flexy joint is sweet but not sure if it actually helps. They aren't strong enough on their own to resist pretzeling and the life of the other bushing sucks.

Not sure I'd buy again, I think I could fabricate something stronger while adding the ability of length adjustment for the same cost.

Not looking for more flex Im already max'd out with my shocks. Goal is to find arms that like to flex more than OEM.
What would you do for the rubber bushing end if you had any choice?
Im all in on sleeving SPC arms if I go that way.

 

[SmokingRocks]

I would use a Toyota OEM bushing in place of the SPC one. I can measure the SPC diameter when I get home and report back if you want.


You could always use two of the flexy joints, but that would probably cost more and doesn't really give added benefit. If you do go that rout just keep in mind that it might result in more shock transfer as I believe the rubber bushing is meant to absorb some of that.

 

[-Spike-]

I would use a Toyota OEM bushing in place of the SPC one. I can measure the SPC diameter when I get home and report back if you want.


You could always use two of the flexy joints, but that would probably cost more and doesn't really give added benefit. If you do go that rout just keep in mind that it might result in more shock transfer as I believe the rubber bushing is meant to absorb some of that.

The rubber bushings must be stressed or they wouldn't get destroyed. There's more to this than simply absorbing some shock.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I would use a Toyota OEM bushing in place of the SPC one. I can measure the SPC diameter when I get home and report back if you want.


You could always use two of the flexy joints, but that would probably cost more and doesn't really give added benefit. If you do go that rout just keep in mind that it might result in more shock transfer as I believe the rubber bushing is meant to absorb some of that.

Thanks for offering to measure but not needed at this time.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Fwiw the larger diameter makes a huge difference in strength vs wall thickness.

I'd bet that 2" .188 would be stronger than 1.75 .375. Certainly 2" .250 wall is. 1.75 is better than stock for sure though.

Just some thoughts...


I don't really have any thoughts on running joints other than I'd never run joints again. Poly bushings or heims is all I'll run going forward. I haven't tried every joint out there though.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

So far 1.75 x .375 has worked for me it is just a camper after all

 

[SmokingRocks]

The rubber bushings must be stressed or they wouldn't get destroyed. There's more to this than simply absorbing some shock.

Yes and no... My OEM bushings long outlasted the spc ones when put through the same torture. Not all rubber is equal...

That said, my rig does a lot more trail thrashing than pavement pounding.

 

[jcardona1]

Have you guys seen the new 'lifetime heims' made by TMR? They look interesting. I may consider these if my front flex joints ever blow out (running FK heims in the rear).

1-1/4" Lifetime Heims - Lifetime Heims - Suspension

 

[SmokingRocks]

Poly bushings or heims is all I'll run going forward.

Heims get squeaky and clunky quickly when exposed to the mud/dirt/sand often found on our favorite trails. They need constant attention to remain quite and clean. They also wear out and develop play much faster than any other joint I've used.

I'm seriously looking into replacing my heims with Curie Johnny Joints (linked).

Best of both worlds. Its got the flex of heims, with a polyurethane bushing holding the ball which vastly reduces squeaking, clunking and damage due to sand/dirt/mud. Additionally they can be rebuilt.

 

[jcardona1]

 

[nukegoat]

Gross