NEW Slee Steps/Sliders and Skids
- Thread starter codyaustin5
- Start date
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Long time lurker - first time posting.
Just finished the install on an LC. Like @CCinSD, took about six hours. Pretty straight forward with one exception. My passenger side slider was missing a couple of welded nuts so took a trip to the hardware store to find a workaround.
Really pleased with the fit/finish!!!
Just finished the install on an LC. Like @CCinSD, took about six hours. Pretty straight forward with one exception. My passenger side slider was missing a couple of welded nuts so took a trip to the hardware store to find a workaround.
Really pleased with the fit/finish!!!
While installing the slider skids I noticed something that I thought of when I was installing the sliders, how would the optional lighting kit work with the slider skids. Sure enough the slider skids cover the rear light and very little light goes through. I'll see if I can install the rear lights in a different place in the future.
I asked Christo this same question when I purchased my set and he said the purpose of the light kit was to light up the tread plate at night. It’s not necessarily a rock light.
They hook to the OEM courtesy light. Although I suppose you could add your own switch.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Also - if you have an LX (at least on my 2010) and replace the rocker panels with LC ones, you might want to consider replacing the 8 rubber plugs on the bottom of the panels with the Toyota part. It's 76924-13020 (need 16 total), and it's a longer plastic clip with tabs. The ones on the LX were soft rubber and didn't seem to have much grip (if any) on the panels.
See:
SLEE- Skid Plate System - '08+ Land Cruiser / LX 570 - Slee Off Road
Features Bolt On Design 3/16" Steel Construction Easy access to engine drain plug location Fins for venting to reduce heat build-up Powder coat finish
sleeoffroad.com
1world1love
SILVER Star
Are there any LXers who did not replace the rockers with LCs? I am curious if the trimmed LX panel was an issue as far as being flimsy.
aside from very minor cosmetics, they are the same. Same attachments. I've been running trimmed LX panels for almost 2 years. Same as the day I put them back on.
1world1love
SILVER Star
Perfect. Thanks grinchy.
for those that have installed these on the LC, how difficult was it? The instructions posted appear to be for the LX only, I'm just not familiar enough with the differences to know if there are instructions specific to the LC. Are there specific instructions for installing on an LC?
It’s pretty straight forward once you know where all the brackets mount to. My biggest concern was making sure I’m drilling the right location for the rivnuts. There was one stick nutI had trouble with but other than that totally doable if you have proper tools and an extra set of hands.
Did the instructions help find the holes or was it a bit of guess work? What tools are essential? Thanks!
The instructions come with supplementary instructions for the LC. They correspond with the LX steps (hence the odd numbering)
*Was going to post them then saw at the bottom it says I can't without permission*
The instructions don't spell it out for you but once you mock everything up it'll make sense. You'll identify where a Rivnut is needed and where to use the stick-nuts. Tools needed is listed in the instructions. The only thing I would suggest is getting a Carbide bit for drilling the frame
Thanks for the info. Is the drill bit that slee sells carbide or is it better to buy elsewhere?The instructions don't spell it out for you but once you mock everything up it'll make sense. You'll identify where a Rivnut is needed and where to use the stick-nuts. Tools needed is listed in the instructions. The only thing I would suggest is getting a Carbide bit for drilling the frame
Update: I have the whole bottom armor from Bud and it is compatible, no mods.
The tapping-The hole will be obvious when you line it up. I had special bits but ended up using a step bit. Definitely use a cutting oil, Tap magic, kroil, boe. I have a small hydraulic tool so it just took a second to set the rivnut. (Most rivnut kits use a smaller overall diameter #8, which I used since (it has a smaller diameter) if I screwed up and then could use the larger diameter #8 from the assembly.
A person at the beginning recommended running a tap/bolt through all the tack welded nuts to clean the powdercoat from the threads. That helped a lot. It is a really smart design. Easy for one person to do with basic had tools and a hydraulic jack. Some wobble extensions or flex joints with tape really help set the main bolts. I though all of it was great, but really only obvious once you mock it up and see how it all fits.
I got the bottom shields and those seemed less well-designed, very strong and good looking, but fiddly to get to the corners and catches a lot of mud for me. I would have gone with a lighter plate and a smaller assembly hole system, maybe even a hook style endplate.
The tapping-The hole will be obvious when you line it up. I had special bits but ended up using a step bit. Definitely use a cutting oil, Tap magic, kroil, boe. I have a small hydraulic tool so it just took a second to set the rivnut. (Most rivnut kits use a smaller overall diameter #8, which I used since (it has a smaller diameter) if I screwed up and then could use the larger diameter #8 from the assembly.
A person at the beginning recommended running a tap/bolt through all the tack welded nuts to clean the powdercoat from the threads. That helped a lot. It is a really smart design. Easy for one person to do with basic had tools and a hydraulic jack. Some wobble extensions or flex joints with tape really help set the main bolts. I though all of it was great, but really only obvious once you mock it up and see how it all fits.
I got the bottom shields and those seemed less well-designed, very strong and good looking, but fiddly to get to the corners and catches a lot of mud for me. I would have gone with a lighter plate and a smaller assembly hole system, maybe even a hook style endplate.
I changed my oil today. I had to call Jackson because I couldnt get the plate off under the drain plug (I'm a dumbass). The plate has carriage bolts on the bottom and nut on the top. The reason is so you don't smack the bolt head and make it so you can't get them off. Because of the lip of the plate angling up you cant see the bolts. I tried from 12MM up to 17mm and nothing worked so I thats why I called Jackson at Slee. Turns out the trick is a SAE 1/2" regular wrench. Not sure why the 13mm didnt work, but not a lot of room for a socket wrench there. Once I used the 1/2" it came off easy. Just posting up in case anyone else runs into this so you dont have to be a dumbass too and call Jackson 
The plate under the oil filter is sweet and easy. I used a driver with the allen wrench tool and it came off in seconds. I have a Fumoto valve on the oil pan drain, but didnt have the hose to drain it why I had to take the plate off. Ordered the 3/8" hose so dont have to take it off anymore
I would have liked this plate to be as easy as the oil filter plate, but I understand why its not. Jackson told me in one of his test runs he smacked that area pretty good and was worried about damaging the bolt head
The plate under the oil filter is sweet and easy. I used a driver with the allen wrench tool and it came off in seconds. I have a Fumoto valve on the oil pan drain, but didnt have the hose to drain it why I had to take the plate off. Ordered the 3/8" hose so dont have to take it off anymore
I would have liked this plate to be as easy as the oil filter plate, but I understand why its not. Jackson told me in one of his test runs he smacked that area pretty good and was worried about damaging the bolt head
I changed my oil today. I had to call Jackson because I couldnt get the plate off under the drain plug (I'm a dumbass). The plate has carriage bolts on the bottom and nut on the top. The reason is so you don't smack the bolt head and make it so you can't get them off. Because of the lip of the plate angling up you cant see the bolts. I tried from 12MM up to 17mm and nothing worked so I thats why I called Jackson at Slee. Turns out the trick is a SAE 1/2" regular wrench. Not sure why the 13mm didnt work, but not a lot of room for a socket wrench there. Once I used the 1/2" it came off easy. Just posting up in case anyone else runs into this so you dont have to be a dumbass too and call Jackson
The plate under the oil filter is sweet and easy. I used a driver with the allen wrench tool and it came off in seconds. I have a Fumoto valve on the oil pan drain, but didnt have the hose to drain it why I had to take the plate off. Ordered the 3/8" hose so dont have to take it off anymore
I would have liked this plate to be as easy as the oil filter plate, but I understand why its not. Jackson told me in one of his test runs he smacked that area pretty good and was worried about damaging the bolt head
They really used SAE hardware?? Come on Slee, you should know better than that.
