gray rider
SILVER Star
That's a clean UC!
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That's a clean UC!
Definitely be on the look out for any other clues in case something isn’t tight. I would give them a hard time for not taking more care.It’s pretty good for sure! The benefits of low miles in the land of sun and zero road salt.
Will look even better after a few pesky corrosion spots are cleaned up and the fluid film goes on.
I think that @xeuxaz is on the money here and it was an unsteady hand during the oil change. Will see if another puddle appears and will make sure to touch and smell if it does.
Congrats and OMG what a beautiful Cruiser!Hi folks
I have had my heart set on a 200 series for some time and have lurked these forums frequently to learn and gather info.
A few weeks back a local South Florida dealership advertised a 2021 with ~30,000 miles (one owner; all driven in Florida). I still have a year on my current vehicle lease but it was too good of an opportunity to pass. Third party inspection was positive and the rest is history. I'll be rocking two cars for a while (before you ask, yes, my wife is a saint).
I am beyond thrilled with the purchase - pictures included below. First LC and first Toyota.
I wanted to ask the knowledgeable people here about a few initial things to do to the car. You all have been extremely helpful already - I knew to check the air filter cover and everything (it works, thankfully).
Below is what I'm planning for the next few months of ownership. Eager to here if anything else is recommend.
Rust
Car is in nearly mint condition, but there is still a bit of surface rust on the undercarriage (wheel areas and a few other places - minimal) and two orange-ish bolts on the rear bumper cover. KDSS does not have any surface rust to my eyes. Very small amount of rust starting on the front license plate inserts.
Will look to have this cleaned up and then try to apply Fluid Film myself (seems like reapplication every ~2 years should be fine for Florida). Have never worked on a vehicle myself before so I'll watch lots of tutorials...
Windows
Ceramic tinting on the windshield to reduce UV and heat inside the vehicle. Front and rear windows have already been tinted (not sure if ceramic) by previous owner.
PPF
Previous owner put a film on the hood and the mirrors (potentially factory 3M from Toyota). Not going to do anything further here and will remove or replace when the time comes.
Mats
Previous owner liked the carpet mats which are not my style. Already ordered a fresh set from Husky (another recommendation from these forums).
Maintenance
Previous owner did oil and filter changes every 10k miles (including at 30k). At 35k I'll plan to do the following:
- oil change
- air filter
- tire rotation
- brake fluid
- tranny fluid
- diff fluid
- transfer case fluid
- Coolant flush
- retorque propellor shaft and bolt; lube propellor shaft
Anything I'm missing?
View attachment 3892205
View attachment 3892210
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Congrats and OMG what a beautiful Cruiser!
You mention lubing the propeller shafts and maybe you meant that to include the U-joints. In case you didn't I would add one small thing to your maintenance list : lube the U-joints. It's fairly easy to do yourself but would involve pulling the mud plates. If you want to hire it out it's not too expensive - my garage does it for $20 IF I have the skids pulled for them.
I purchased my 2018 LC in 11/2019 as new with about 6500 miles on it - the only owner was the dealership itself. On 2/20/20 at 7335 miles I decided, after reading how on this forum, to lube my U-joints and drive shafts. Why? Paranoia. I've had them fail on and off road going back to my 1985 K5 Chevy Blazer.
Anyway, what I found shocked me. Each u-joint took about 5-6 pumps from a standard sized grease gun before ANY grease came out of those joints. I dunno if it's still the case with later models but those joints on mine seemed DRY from the factory.
But I've had mechanics tell me that that in general joints from the factory "probably have more grease in them that you think". Well OK. Maybe it depends on the particular type of joint or your point of view.![]()
The drips are likely engine oil. The cartridge type filter is a source of mess if the lube guy doesn’t know how or take the time to drain the housing before removing it. The dealer made a mess of mine a couple times. And the access cover is pretty small for the oil pan drain plug so oil can get on the engine undercover if you’re not careful.
There was a very small amount on the garage floor this morning. Definitely engine oil. The mechanic had to replace the filter cap as he mentioned the OEM plastic cap was “wet”. I’m guessing that’s what I’m dealing with here. Hoping it goes away but I’m going to keep a close eye and will investigate further if it seems like something is loose under the skids.
Hmmm, might just be a communication issue but the filter cap is metal. The housing is plastic so I would be wondering which he “replaced”. You definitely need to drop the skid and look.
I had the same small drips after an oil change, was in a rush and did not push the gasket all the way down on the filter housing. Would be the first thing to check.
View attachment 3902961
is there an easy way for you to point these out? Im getting ready to try some maintenance when I get back into my garage.... Also safest way to get a little lift on the vehicle to fit under it??propeller shafts and maybe you meant that to include the U-joints.
There are 2 u joints on each drive shaft; they look like a "+" sign. In the center is a grease zerk. I did them all by sliding under the truck. The fronts are a bit of a PITA as they need to be aligned just right to get to the zerk. Aligning them involves moving the truck forward and backward, sometimes as little as an inch. You will likely bump your head a d burn yourself on hot catalytic converters.is there an easy way for you to point these out? Im getting ready to try some maintenance when I get back into my garage.... Also safest way to get a little lift on the vehicle to fit under it??
Congrats! That is a beautiful 200
@Mingus Dew an important part of swapping in the aluminum oil filter cap is to transfer over the longer support tube.. I’d want to verify they did that part of the job, personally.
Also it is entirely normal to have to pump a fair amount of grease into the zerk before any comes out of the caps. This is because the zerk enters at the center of the joint, but the cap that catches the grease stops much further out. That means that after greasing, the first time you drive anywhere, the grease stuck in the cross “above” the cap gets slung down into the cap due to centrifugal force. That’ll make a void that must be filled the next time you grease the joint.
All of this isn’t to say our drivelines get greased as much as they should.. the front joints on mine showed zero evidence of being greased during PM, ever, before I bought it. But a few pumps before you get a return is normal.
Also, you really don’t need to drive back and forth if you have a pair of ramps (useful for lots of other stuff) and a floor jack. See this:
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How I grease my front driveshaft
I've seen a few threads asking for advice on getting the front driveline lubed, and even a couple asking whether there are even zerks up there. Had to do my drivelines recently and figured I'd take some pictures of what I do. First off.. the equipment. No fancy grease gun or nozzle here. Just a...forum.ih8mud.com
I hated that plastic thing. And the price to replace it wasn't cheap either. I guess I could get by with the plastic cap if it cost like $1 which is all it's worth.Thank you!
Spoke to the mechanic - they didn't use the Toyota aluminum housing that would require the support tube swap. They used an aftermarket cap from a company called Dorman.
I might buy the Toyota cap and have them manually swap the support tube next time I'm there, but honestly the stock plastic cap was so crappy this is still an upgrade. Not sure how much I should care.
I hated that plastic thing. And the price to replace it wasn't cheap either. I guess I could get by with the plastic cap if it cost like $1 which is all it's worth.
I went with the cap made for the venza and swapped center tubes. It's worked great.
Toyota Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060)
15620-31060 Genuine Toyota Cap Assembly, Oil Filter
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Oh you already put the Dorman on? I didn't know Dorman made one but it should be ok right? I don't personally know its quality.Yep the replacement plastic housing (15620-0S010) is like $75.
I'll roll with the aftermarket part for now and then decide what I want to do at my next oil change.
Oh you already put the Dorman on? I didn't know Dorman made one but it should be ok right? I don't personally know its quality.
I went the route I did because the cap was "genuine toyota" FWIW albeit for another car.