New Shock Option Soon!
- Thread starter bwell
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No complaints whatsoever. Only running them in the rear w/ Ironmans up front. I have a buddy with a 99 LC with a full Ironman set up. He’s jealous of my ride quality in my ‘00 LX.
Very very anecdotal but I would buy them again
Very very anecdotal but I would buy them again
Just bought them and will install in the next week or so
Does anyone have any insight on how often they need to be rebuilt? Or if they can be rebuilt? Its hard to tell by researching, I'm getting conflicting info depending on the thread I find. If not - anyone know of an expected life cycle?
I really prefer a RR monotube, but as I take more and more long trips in the 100, the idea of rebuilding them every 18 months or so (which approx King's/Radflo's cycle) isn't super appealing.
I really prefer a RR monotube, but as I take more and more long trips in the 100, the idea of rebuilding them every 18 months or so (which approx King's/Radflo's cycle) isn't super appealing.
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I installed these shocks last week along with some OME springs and torsion bars. So far I'm happy with the ride quality and it's certainly much better than the Fox 2.0 I was previously running. Looking forward to getting them on the dirt once a little more snow melts!
Concur I daily my truck and the on road ride is good. Headed to cruise Moab next week for first real off road testing since they’ve been installed
Reading others' experience on this thread, I'm leaning towards the Bilstein 5160s for all four corners, but am curious what your recommendation would be for the torsion bars and springs to pair with these shocks?
I'm brand new to this and just picked up a completely stock 2001 100 series. I'm going to be running 285/75/16 AT tires and I was initially planning to just do a 1.5" torsion bar lift with the OE TBs. But now I'm considering perhaps getting after market TBs to do a 2" lift and adding the Ironman Medium Load (0-440lbs) 2" springs in the back. Would be great to get your thoughts or hear from any others who have advice for a noob.
Thanks!
I just helped a friend inspect a truck with the Ironman 2” rear springs, and they are closer to 4”. The front had to be lifted higher than you want to not look ridiculous - I think it only had 1.5” of droop.
You can do 2” easily with the OE bars, and the OME springs are closer to the 2” you’re after.
I have the IM 2inch torsion and springs. The rears are way too tall. I’m thinking of swapping them with OME or Dobinsons or some other rear spring brand.
I’m running the 5160s fronts and rears. (Torqued down at ride height).
I have the TT extended links all around.
My ride quality isn’t the best. I feel all the bumps in the road especially when I take a county backroad. Here in California all the roads are s*** because of constant shift fault lines and tiny earthquakes.
not sure if it’s because the dampening on these shocks or because the IM rears are too stiff for my weight (no added weight +no rear seats)
I’m running the 5160s fronts and rears. (Torqued down at ride height).
I have the TT extended links all around.
My ride quality isn’t the best. I feel all the bumps in the road especially when I take a county backroad. Here in California all the roads are s*** because of constant shift fault lines and tiny earthquakes.
not sure if it’s because the dampening on these shocks or because the IM rears are too stiff for my weight (no added weight +no rear seats)
Being over-sprung in the rear probably doesn’t help. What load range are your tires?
They are Toyo open country AT 3 286/75/16 load range E
Does anyone have a long term review on quality/durability of the Bilstein 5160s? I’m currently running Icons and on my third rebuild in 30k miles.
Yes. The only problem I’ve had this far is the end of the shaft has an adapter that screws to the shaft. This then interfaces to the body of the vehicle. These threads between the shaft and the adapter have failed me twice on the right rear. Both times Offroad. My setup is extremely mild with a 1.5” lift and my suspension bushings all appear ok (at least by eye, hand wiggle, and dead blow to look for movement).
The first time I removed, cleaned, and used permanent thread locker as the threads were still 70%. The second time I was going to machine a new adapter but decided to see if I could weld it first. I machined a few features down to allow better fit and welding to include deepening the female thread of the adapter as well as removing a flange on the same part of the adapter.
The adapter feels as though it’s made of chocolate but I’m sure it’s cast iron of some sort. I started with 308L filler and it didn’t like that. I ended up using .030” 70S6 I pulled from my MIG welder and that worked much better. I should have done two passes to really add a large fillet but I was afraid of dumping too much heat into it. It’s not the most elegant fix and I don’t think it should have happened to begin with but it’s been holding through 10-12 Offroad weekend trips over 4 months.
The first time I removed, cleaned, and used permanent thread locker as the threads were still 70%. The second time I was going to machine a new adapter but decided to see if I could weld it first. I machined a few features down to allow better fit and welding to include deepening the female thread of the adapter as well as removing a flange on the same part of the adapter.
The adapter feels as though it’s made of chocolate but I’m sure it’s cast iron of some sort. I started with 308L filler and it didn’t like that. I ended up using .030” 70S6 I pulled from my MIG welder and that worked much better. I should have done two passes to really add a large fillet but I was afraid of dumping too much heat into it. It’s not the most elegant fix and I don’t think it should have happened to begin with but it’s been holding through 10-12 Offroad weekend trips over 4 months.
I've only had the 5160's for a month. Mine were a straight bolt in for installation. No adapter.
They are pretty firm and you will notice it on crappy streets like we have.
I reduced the front psi to 38 lbs to soften the bumps somewhat.
Otherwise I like firmed up ride on good roads.
They are pretty firm and you will notice it on crappy streets like we have.
I reduced the front psi to 38 lbs to soften the bumps somewhat.
Otherwise I like firmed up ride on good roads.
If you cut the boot zip ties and pull it back you can see what I’m talking about FYi. My opinion does match yours in regards to being stiff off the top.
Thanks. I read that pretty fast.
Didn't know that it was inside the boot.
So the shock shaft (or an adapter on the shaft) is making contact with the vehicle? Is anyone else having this issue? I know a few people are running them.
Yeah, doing some googling and it seems like they are digressive, which blows.
I'd like a monotube 2.5" RR shock - but I do not want the rebuild times associated with a Radflo or King.... seems like there are no good answers. I swear, the 200 series isn't for me, but dammit I wish I had their front suspension.
The 5160's are too stiff on the top end for low speed off-road trails. The same way on potholes and broken pavement. Cold weather seems to make them stiffer too.
They are great on smooth pavement but I could've had that and more with new OEM shocks.
I'll probably switch out the fronts later on.
