New Radiator. (1 Viewer)

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In case I wasn't clear, DONT go to Heartland Toyota. They know absolutely nothing about how to source parts for a 40 series.
Funny because the sales manager was selling his FJ40 from his “personal collection” about a year ago. I was in getting my Tacoma serviced and it was there in the showroom. Kinda started a fire for me to get one. I have never inquired about parts for land cruisers from them though.

I bought an OEM radiator from CityRacer. Came really well packed and even the drain was really well wrapped up as to not damage the radiator, which does happen.
 
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Funny because the sales manager was selling his FJ40 from his “personal collection” about a year ago. I was in getting my Tacoma serviced and it was there in the showroom. Kinda started a fire for me to get one. I have never inquired about parts for land cruisers from them though.

I bought an OEM radiator from CityRacer. Came really well packed and even the drain was really well wrapped up as to not damage the radiator, which does happen.

"we don't really have parts for things that old. maybe you could try like a junkyard or something".

After about 5 minutes of waiting, watching him click on the computer, muttering about this being superseded or some other thing... I thought about giving him the part number Onur stated, but decided it wasn't my lucky day (I'm sure I'd be quoted MSRP and told the online price was online only, and almost no chance the part would be in stock, same wait time either way).

And the coffee bar was closed. But asking the girl who was there last time (oil change on my prius, because ya, I like driving slow) for a new radiator would've been a more productive experience I'm sure.

But making the stop for coffee in Gorst made it all worthwhile, I guess.

Parts.toyota.com shows part 1640049356 available, MSRP 413.02. But then I have to buy through a dealer... And clicking through several of them, they all have different discounts, and different prices!!! 31% at parker Toyota in Idaho (and no sales tax?). They have an option for local pickup with no shipping charges, Heartland Toyota does not.

Of course, Parts.toyota.com only lets me search for vehicles back to 1981, which I assume is the parts counter guy's problem. But I can search and get the part number off www.toyotapartsdirect.ca...

Either way, I can't image finding out in a junkyard around here. Soldering it back together myself is still an option, I guess. Probably the easiest option. (I did that once on an F250. It worked.)
 
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Jul 6, 2020
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Poulsbo, WA
Talk to Ward’s. He’s a real old school radiator guy. He helped me out on my rear heater core and knew enough about Land Cruisers to tell me which old Ford and Rover rear cores could fit as a replacement. That’s saying something.
 
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Have you checked out toyotapartsdeal.com ? I’ve never ordered from them and I’ve heard mixed reviews with their customer service and shipping.
 
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Have you checked out toyotapartsdeal.com ? I’ve never ordered from them and I’ve heard mixed reviews with their customer service and shipping.
Never dealt with them, saw the link show up in google and thought about it...
From parts.toyota.com, I know I'm using a Toyota owned website referring me to a valid Toyota dealer. Didn't see much info validating toyotapartsdeal and their pricing wasn't any better anyways...

(not sure how common counterfeit toyota parts are, but have had to be very careful with camera batteries and some other thing..)
 
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We almost need a Kitsap County thread somewhere. Sorry for the hijack!
Yes indeed! We need a club. We could all show up at the silverdale car cruise and everyone would ignore the Vettes and Chevelles and want to talk about how they had a brother/friend who used to own a 40 and how they always wanted one. :bounce:
 

3_puppies

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@Onur That's a good point. I do want to convert to an electric fan... But, that'll work on an OEM radiator. And while I've read about aluminum cooling better, it's been over 80 degree F here a total of about 10 days this summer... on a stock 1F... I don't really need better cooling.


why an electric fan? the stock setup was designed to work in the worlds worst places, the outback in Oz, the deserts of Africa and the middle east.
 

ToyotaMatt

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I've noticed puddles or brownish / orange'ish water in my garage under the FJ40 for a couple weeks and decided to figure out exactly what was leaking and get it fixed. I knew it was coming from the top of the engine and having previously had the upper radiator hose split on me I was wondering if there was some strange trend (at this point that was the newest hose, but seemed most likely from where the water seemed to be coming from). So, I got a pressure tester and pumped it up.
View attachment 2416742
This is going to be a little more involved than a new hose.

Deciding to get it all sorted out at the same time, I ordered new radiator hoses, new heater hoses, new thermostat and gaskets. And, a decided to take a gamble and ordered a cheap aluminum radiator from amazon that included a fan and shroud (I'll let you all know how that part of it turns out). I have never had issues actually overheating, probably mostly due to Western Washington weather (almost never over 80 degrees F), and didn't feel the need to make sure I had a good 4 core radiator. Really have had more issues with it running cold too long after starting, not vaporizing fuel properly when first starting, and having to leave it running to warm up 5-10 minutes before it decides to make enough power to drive. And was hoping a thermostat controlled electric fan could help that.

After draining the antifreeze out of the radiator drain (nice that it's tall enough to just stick a 5 gallon bucket under it) I flushed the whole system with fresh water. Tried flushing it with vinegar, put two gallons in, topped off with water and drove around until it was hot for 10-15 minutes, drained that and flushed it out with fresh water again. Not sure that did much, but was only $6-7 in vinegar and felt safe dumping that without having to collect and properly dispose of.

As I began tearing things apart I discovered the radiator support wasn't bolted down. The support rods were there, bolted down properly, and the two nuts were in the bottom of the radiator support, going into the frame, but there are no nuts on the bottom of them...

Getting prepared for the job, as far back as two weeks ago, I started spraying Kroil oil on the thermostat housing bolts. I've tried using this stuff before, but always on with limited success due to not really giving it a chance, find a bolt that feels rusty, spray it on and expect instant results. This time, I prepared with it. And both those bolts came out in one piece!!! They looked rusty and old, still going to be cleaning up the threads with a tap and buying new bolts.

Once getting the thermostat housing off and thermostat out I found this:
View attachment 2416749
Someone's excessive use of RTV? I've seen a few bad examples of how poor a mechanic the PO was, but I dunno how they managed to get that to fall apart like that inside the engine.

And then I noticed this:
View attachment 2416765

Looks like my thermostat housing has a threaded hose for another thermostat, do they all have that? And I already have two installed in the head (one for the dash gauge and another for smog control that's unused). But a hose looped back on itself. Seems like something that needs more fixing!!! Does anyone happen to know what size thread that is? (I've seen older threads mention 1/2 inch BSP on the head?)

And with all the antifeeze drained and a roll of new heater hose, I finally am taking the opportunity to remove the rear heater (doesn't seem to do much with the top off).



@3_puppies speaks the truth , WHY Down grade to made in china electric fan that will leave you on the side of the road sooner rather then later ?

with the exception of the USA and the UK , most military of the free and well not so free worlds utilized a land cruiser of one varity or another

they were basically un-modified and could tough it out in many conditions etc ....

KEEP your factory parts intact , in good working order and in place , you will regret taking another path like a electric GHETTO pep boys AMAZON fan the day after you install it ....

serious words .........



1598612822284.png
 
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why an electric fan? the stock setup was designed to work in the worlds worst places, the outback in Oz, the deserts of Africa and the middle east.
Because I'm NOT in one of the worlds worst places, I'm in Western Washington, where it's really quite mild...

And it's never overheated, or gotten near, I'm really not worried about that at all.

But on the short drive up to the ferry terminal, 1 mile away, when it's 65 degrees F out, I have to start it up and let it idle on the driveway for 10 minutes to let it heat up before fuel begins to vaporize properly so that I can get enough power to actually drive it. Choke closes and fast idle helps, a little, but really not enough. That entire time, the fan is turning, slowing this process down.

I've thought about a hotter thermostat too...
 

pb4ugo

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Because I'm NOT in one of the worlds worst places, I'm in Western Washington, where it's really quite mild...

And it's never overheated, or gotten near, I'm really not worried about that at all.

But on the short drive up to the ferry terminal, 1 mile away, when it's 65 degrees F out, I have to start it up and let it idle on the driveway for 10 minutes to let it heat up before fuel begins to vaporize properly so that I can get enough power to actually drive it. Choke closes and fast idle helps, a little, but really not enough. That entire time, the fan is turning, slowing this process down.

I've thought about a hotter thermostat too...

There is a little circulation thru the bypass hose, but the water doesn't really start to circulate thru the rad until the T stat opens which usually takes 10 or 15 minutes. The engine needs more fuel in a cold condition, that's why there is a choke and a fast idle.
 

3_puppies

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Because I'm NOT in one of the worlds worst places, I'm in Western Washington, where it's really quite mild...

And it's never overheated, or gotten near, I'm really not worried about that at all.

But on the short drive up to the ferry terminal, 1 mile away, when it's 65 degrees F out, I have to start it up and let it idle on the driveway for 10 minutes to let it heat up before fuel begins to vaporize properly so that I can get enough power to actually drive it. Choke closes and fast idle helps, a little, but really not enough. That entire time, the fan is turning, slowing this process down.

I've thought about a hotter thermostat too...


you have other issues then, it should not take 10 minutes to warm up the engine. an electric fan will not fix this issue. a hotter thermostat will not fix this either.
 
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@Tubbster85 @AntFarm do you have a dealership in Western WA that you like? I've been using Kirkland Toyota with minimal success if I don't have the exact part number.

The last guy I talked to told me that I can't possibly have a US spec 1967 FJ40 because Toyota didn't start importing until 1969. Oy vey.
 
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@Tubbster85 @AntFarm do you have a dealership in Western WA that you like? I've been using Kirkland Toyota with minimal success if I don't have the exact part number.

The last guy I talked to told me that I can't possibly have a US spec 1967 FJ40 because Toyota didn't start importing until 1969. Oy vey.
I do not really have any dealer in Western WA that I like for parts. But to be fair, I haven't tried them all, just don't have time for that. I depend on the great vendors here on Mud. My "best" dealer experiences have been at Bruce Titus in Tacoma, but that's still an hour's drive for me. It's my impression that they are all rapidly getting away from 40 and 60 series support. They just don't seem to have any motivation to help. My local dealer in Kitsap county literally can not hand me a set of spark plugs for an FJ40. Now, on the other hand, my local NAPA has been fantastic. Those guys have gone out of their way to find obscure parts, and help out whenever they can.
 

John Smith

In the garage
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It's 1/2".

That's 1/2" NPT on the bottom.
View attachment 2418049

But, I found the housing I got off a 1975 FJ55 that was parted out several years back... And as long as I can get the bolts out of it, I think I'll use that. And, it doesn't have that hole to mount a thermometer sender in...

That's not a 1/2" NPT fitting in your picture. Please see below.

1598651222132.png


1598651421279.png
 
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@Tubbster85 @AntFarm do you have a dealership in Western WA that you like? I've been using Kirkland Toyota with minimal success if I don't have the exact part number.

The last guy I talked to told me that I can't possibly have a US spec 1967 FJ40 because Toyota didn't start importing until 1969. Oy vey.
No I don’t and haven’t really tried. Coming from old Mustangs I never really thought of it. I also like to support our vendors here, not only for their products but for their knowledge also.
 
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That's not a 1/2" NPT fitting in your picture. Please see below.

That was a part I ordered for the propane tanks on an RV, that turned out to be the wrong size, because I don't understand how they measure pipe threads, but was definitely labeled and listed as 1/2" Male Pipe x 3/4" Female Pipe. I also have (arrived today) a 1/2 BSPT to 3/8 NTP adapter from a different source that threads into the hole in that thermostat housing (Planned to use that adapter on the head for a thermostat control for a fan).

Outside of that, I really don't understand pipe thread sizes. Had understood (perhaps incorrectly) that pipe was measured on the inside diameter (and tube on the outside), but am not sure if that's relevant to these thread sizes.

But that's what I ordered. And that's how it fit.
 
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Just a quick update...
I did order OEM from a dealer through parts.toyota.com using the part number @Onur listed.
And I got to thinking too much and ordered a new pipe for the heater "y" on the lower radiator hose ( 1657761040 ). It just looked so much sleaker and newer than the original, which kinda looked like something I made in the garage....
Also ordered a radiator hose kit from SOR, and a roll of 5/8 heater hose.

And, the radiator took a while. 2-3 weeks...
And then the air was full of smoke and I wasn't in a hurry to spend time in the garage, and wasn't going to be cruising around with the top off anyways. And then work got busy, and then...

But, I got back to it, and have it mostly reassembled. Gave up on the electric fan idea, for now. The distance between the pulley on the front of the water pump and the radiator is barely 3 inches (maybe a little less). The slimmest fan I found was 2.5", which would have to mount straight onto the radiator's fans, not using a shroud. It'd probably work, but I'm loosing interest in the challenge, not sure if there's really a benefit... (and all the fans slim enough cost more than I want to waste on a failure, all of the cheaper fans I've found are 3.5" thick)

I dug a plastic fan and another thermostat housing out of the shed. Was able to extract both bolts (one broke, but well above the threads, and then came out with vice grips once the top was off) and this one didn't have a threaded hole for a thermometer to plug.

So, I got the radiator support and thermostat housing all cleaned up and painted. And ran new heater hose, finally removing the rear heater (doesn't seem useful without the top, just setting there waiting for an accident with the dog). And, finally doing something about the metal pipe that runs along side the engine, from the heater's return to the lower radiator hose. I unbolted this to move out of the way when I installed an HEI / large cap distributor and, um, just kinda left that heater pipe hang... Well, it's replaced with hose now, and neatly secured with rubber covered metal tie downs using m6 studs in the rocket arm cover bolts. (cutting the mount tabs off and lowering the pipe probably would have been a better idea than replacing with 4 feet of hose, maybe next time).

And Just when I was almost done... I decided to stop and repaint the fan shroud (that I originally thought I wouldn't be reusing). And realized that the added thickness of plastic fan, the bolts don't thread into the water pump more than 1-2 mm.
 

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