New Radiator. (1 Viewer)

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I've noticed puddles or brownish / orange'ish water in my garage under the FJ40 for a couple weeks and decided to figure out exactly what was leaking and get it fixed. I knew it was coming from the top of the engine and having previously had the upper radiator hose split on me I was wondering if there was some strange trend (at this point that was the newest hose, but seemed most likely from where the water seemed to be coming from). So, I got a pressure tester and pumped it up.
IMG_20200821_193529.jpg

This is going to be a little more involved than a new hose.

Deciding to get it all sorted out at the same time, I ordered new radiator hoses, new heater hoses, new thermostat and gaskets. And, a decided to take a gamble and ordered a cheap aluminum radiator from amazon that included a fan and shroud (I'll let you all know how that part of it turns out). I have never had issues actually overheating, probably mostly due to Western Washington weather (almost never over 80 degrees F), and didn't feel the need to make sure I had a good 4 core radiator. Really have had more issues with it running cold too long after starting, not vaporizing fuel properly when first starting, and having to leave it running to warm up 5-10 minutes before it decides to make enough power to drive. And was hoping a thermostat controlled electric fan could help that.

After draining the antifreeze out of the radiator drain (nice that it's tall enough to just stick a 5 gallon bucket under it) I flushed the whole system with fresh water. Tried flushing it with vinegar, put two gallons in, topped off with water and drove around until it was hot for 10-15 minutes, drained that and flushed it out with fresh water again. Not sure that did much, but was only $6-7 in vinegar and felt safe dumping that without having to collect and properly dispose of.

As I began tearing things apart I discovered the radiator support wasn't bolted down. The support rods were there, bolted down properly, and the two nuts were in the bottom of the radiator support, going into the frame, but there are no nuts on the bottom of them...

Getting prepared for the job, as far back as two weeks ago, I started spraying Kroil oil on the thermostat housing bolts. I've tried using this stuff before, but always on with limited success due to not really giving it a chance, find a bolt that feels rusty, spray it on and expect instant results. This time, I prepared with it. And both those bolts came out in one piece!!! They looked rusty and old, still going to be cleaning up the threads with a tap and buying new bolts.

Once getting the thermostat housing off and thermostat out I found this:
IMG_20200825_184733.jpg

Someone's excessive use of RTV? I've seen a few bad examples of how poor a mechanic the PO was, but I dunno how they managed to get that to fall apart like that inside the engine.

And then I noticed this:
IMG_20200825_185143.jpg


Looks like my thermostat housing has a threaded hose for another thermostat, do they all have that? And I already have two installed in the head (one for the dash gauge and another for smog control that's unused). But a hose looped back on itself. Seems like something that needs more fixing!!! Does anyone happen to know what size thread that is? (I've seen older threads mention 1/2 inch BSP on the head?)

And with all the antifeeze drained and a roll of new heater hose, I finally am taking the opportunity to remove the rear heater (doesn't seem to do much with the top off).
 
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John Smith

In the garage
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Your truck appears to be de-smogged. You have no use for the thremo switch in your thermostat housing. The PO probably put the hose loop to keep dirt out of it. You can pull it and put in a brass plug 3/8" BSPT.
 
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I'm going through the same thing right now with my cooling system refresh. I'm just a few miles north of you. I used a City Racer OEM radiator and it's gorgeous. I recommend cleaning up your thermostat housing really good with wire brushes or blasting and get some stainless bolts for the two halves and the block interface from Overland Metric.
 
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Also, comparing the OEM thermostat gaskets side by side with Felpro, the OEM are significantly more robust. Get those from @cruiseroutfit. I'm sure the Felpro have worked fine for lots of folks but the OEM seem like they will compensate for irregularities a lot better.
 
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Your truck appears to be de-smogged. You have no use for the thremo switch in your thermostat housing. The PO probably put the hose loop to keep dirt out of it. You can pull it and put in a brass plug 3/8" BSPT.
I pulled it out this morning and got a better look. Looks a lot like a thermo switch, but haven't cut into the tube in case I need to reuse until getting a plug.

There are already 2 thermostat switches in the head. Not sure how a 3rd ended up there. But I have read on another thread (from 10 years ago, at least) that the holes in the head were 1/2" BSPT? This looks the same size, same hex size or the head. Are you sure about 3/8", I'm looking for 1/2" and finding them kinda not an item the local HW store stocks, and it's only $5 if I have to try again, but also probably 2 week wait...
 
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I'm going through the same thing right now with my cooling system refresh. I'm just a few miles north of you. I used a City Racer OEM radiator and it's gorgeous. I recommend cleaning up your thermostat housing really good with wire brushes or blasting and get some stainless bolts for the two halves and the block interface from Overland Metric.

It ain't getting much more cleaned up than that. Enough to make sure the gasket seals.

The ACE / Mclendon HW in Port Orchard has a pretty good supply of SS metric bolts, and should have what I need.

Ordered new gaskets and hoses from SOR, they had a kit with all the hoses and clamps for a reasonable price. Should be here in time to get it all back together before next week. Although, that'd be with the fan wired through a switch hanging off the dash (temporary, until I get a thermo switch) possibly using most of my 30 amps of current off that original alternator...
 
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It ain't getting much more cleaned up than that. Enough to make sure the gasket seals.

The ACE / Mclendon HW in Port Orchard has a pretty good supply of SS metric bolts, and should have what I need.

Ordered new gaskets and hoses from SOR, they had a kit with all the hoses and clamps for a reasonable price. Should be here in time to get it all back together before next week. Although, that'd be with the fan wired through a switch hanging off the dash (temporary, until I get a thermo switch) possibly using most of my 30 amps of current off that original alternator...
Didn’t know there was another person from Port Orchard here!
 
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Didn’t know there was another person from Port Orchard here!

Well, I see a green FJ40 outside by Mile Hill when I pass by now and then.

I know a guy with a blue one, and see another blue one around now and then.

Saw a 45 pickup parked off Southworth Dr. by Yukon Harbor last weekend.

And there's the guy with the other green one I bought the air cleaner off.

There are a few around here. Can't figure why none of them would be on here from time to time.

I assume that's your '40 in the profile picture, haven't seen another red one that I remember in PO.
 
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And continuing on... With more cussing the PO. (Previous owner, not cussing at Port Orchard).

Checked the size for the new bolts I'll need and use a tap to clean out the threads. Hole furthest from the block was easy enough, M8 x 1.25... But I noticed the other bolt was a different size, assumed M10x1.5, but pulling out a new bolt from the bit to test it just didn't quite feel right.... Was the closest fit on my nut and bolt thread checker. Definitely larger than M8. But then M10 wouldn't fit through the hole on the top of the housing...

Yep, it was 3/8 x 16. As proud of myself as I was for successfully getting those bolts out without snapping them, they'd not only been out before, but previously snapped, drilled and tapped again. With SAE sizes.

I think I have another thermostat housing in the shed somewhere... Time to go find it... Should be a plastic fan with it that I ought find in case this whole electric fan thing doesn't work out.

But in the meantime, I found that even a 3/8 x 16 bolt would barely thread in, so I found that tap and made sure there were enough thread to fully screw down a 3/4 inch bolt I had left on the shelf. So, if I can't find that other housing, give that next owner a little confused surprise to cuss me over.
 

ToyotaMatt

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And continuing on... With more cussing the PO. (Previous owner, not cussing at Port Orchard).

Checked the size for the new bolts I'll need and use a tap to clean out the threads. Hole furthest from the block was easy enough, M8 x 1.25... But I noticed the other bolt was a different size, assumed M10x1.5, but pulling out a new bolt from the bit to test it just didn't quite feel right.... Was the closest fit on my nut and bolt thread checker. Definitely larger than M8. But then M10 wouldn't fit through the hole on the top of the housing...

Yep, it was 3/8 x 16. As proud of myself as I was for successfully getting those bolts out without snapping them, they'd not only been out before, but previously snapped, drilled and tapped again. With SAE sizes.

I think I have another thermostat housing in the shed somewhere... Time to go find it... Should be a plastic fan with it that I ought find in case this whole electric fan thing doesn't work out.

But in the meantime, I found that even a 3/8 x 16 bolt would barely thread in, so I found that tap and made sure there were enough thread to fully screw down a 3/4 inch bolt I had left on the shelf. So, if I can't find that other housing, give that next owner a little confused surprise to cuss me over.


i carry in-stock the correct JIS Metric marine Grade Polished Stainless steel land Cruiser housing Bolts kit , there SEMS just like oem , but have a flat washer and are better too


i have oem thermostats too






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Well, the new radiator showed up from Amazon... made and sold by GPI Racing... And...
I somewhat expected that for the price, quality and workmanship with be noticeably low...
But it doesn't even fit.

Amazon product
There is a rectangular tank on the bottom where the lower radiator hose outlet is, and it's too large and squared off, and prevents the radiator from sitting down into the support.

None of the mounting holes line up. With the radiator as far down as it would sit, I moved up to line up the nearest mounting holes in the radiator with the top nuts in the support, and the radiator sat so high the hood wouldn't close. And none of the mounting holes on the radiator were lined up with any of the nuts on the support...

And the shroud that came with it... Looked functional, decent gauge aluminum, setting down on the old radiator dimensions were right. But with it's mounting in the middle lined up with the radiators mounting holes, the holes on top and bottom didn't line up. And, like 2-3 inches off, no like a slight machining error. Whoever designed this didn't even have correct measurements.

But it gets worse... The FAN that came with it didn't fit the mounting holes in the shroud!!! Like, this all came from one place as a kit. And they couldn't make the parts of their own kit fit.

Anyways. I knew it was a gamble... As long as I get the refund I'll be moving along to buy something of higher reputation...
 
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Your truck appears to be de-smogged. You have no use for the thremo switch in your thermostat housing. The PO probably put the hose loop to keep dirt out of it. You can pull it and put in a brass plug 3/8" BSPT.

It's 1/2".

That's 1/2" NPT on the bottom.
IMG_20200827_124727.jpg


But, I found the housing I got off a 1975 FJ55 that was parted out several years back... And as long as I can get the bolts out of it, I think I'll use that. And, it doesn't have that hole to mount a thermometer sender in...
 
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@Onur , this is a bit off-topic for this thread, except for the fact that the PO and I live in the same county, so it pertains. Our local Toyota dealer is absolutely horrible for any Land Cruiser part prior to about 1992. I'm not kidding, they can't even source a set of spark plugs for a 40 series! Forget about a thermostat or god forbid a water pump. I think that the coffee bar barista and the parts counter gal just trade jobs back and forth every couple of days for fun. Back in the day we relied on Downey, SOR, and Man-a-fre. Now it's a whole new group of online vendors, some with brick and morter shops, that keep us alive. If it weren't for the incredible vendors here on 'mud (like yourself, @cruiseroutfit, City racer, Mark A, and others), I think many of us would have to find a different hobby.
 
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@Onur That's a good point. I do want to convert to an electric fan... But, that'll work on an OEM radiator. And while I've read about aluminum cooling better, it's been over 80 degree F here a total of about 10 days this summer... on a stock 1F... I don't really need better cooling.

@AntFarm Ya, I think I might go up there and see what they can do for me.

Searching for that part number via google, parts.toyota.com came up claiming I could get a new radiator from that dealer up the street for under $300, with some kinda discount that's not explained. And then tax. And then shipping. If they'll sell if for that minus shipping picking it up I'd do that. But the $415 MSRP is a bit excessive, and I might go back to finding another aftermarket aluminum one from a more reputable place.
 

Pighead

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That top seam leak in your first pic is a VERY common occurrence with OEM radiators. Any good radiator shop can fix that with ease.
Take your old radiator to the oldest radiator shop in town. have them rod it out. Heck, even re-core it. They'll re-solder that top tank better than new.
 
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@Pighead has a Good point. You can either go south to Tacoma Radiator, or north to Ward's in Chico near Bremerton. Ward's has limited hours, I think he doesn't open until 3pm or so, but he does really good work and he knows Land Cruiser radiators.
 
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In case I wasn't clear, DONT go to Heartland Toyota. They know absolutely nothing about how to source parts for a 40 series.
 

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