New oxygen sensor + installation, need help (1 Viewer)

[Grolar]

Hi guys.

Got an ECL the other day while riding my '94 FZJ80 in the Mojave. The paperclip diagnosis tool returned a Code 28, ie dysfunctional Oxygen sensor(s). The rig, which I just purchased, is 119k and I'm quite sure the two sensors are the original ones, so no wonder. Anyway, I'd really appreciate some tips:

- What's the best value I can get for two O2 sensors on the Net? C-Dan? Oxygensensors.com?
- Where the h**k are they located under the hood (sorry, newbie).
- Is that a big deal to DIY? I can handle some basic maintenance but don't want to have to tow my Cruiser to a sarcastic mechanic with a jammed engine...

BTW, can you in the US go to a mechanic with your own, even blistered, spare parts and ask him to install them? Their European counterparts are more than wary about that for insurance and liability reasons.

Thanks for your help, bests

Grolar

 

[elmariachi]

They are not under the hood, they are in front of and right behind the catalytic converters under the passenger side of the truck. Call Dan and order a manual while you are at it.

The hardest part about changing them is getting the old nuts off. And be sure not to touch the portion of the new ones that go down into the exhaust pipe with your bare skin. Most good mechanics don't want to work with used parts, unless you are talking about something like a rebuilt alternator, used muffler, etc.

 

[snowcruiser]

You shouldn't need to get towed anywhere for an O2 sensor problem. New ones will run about $110/each if memory serves from Dan at American Toyota. Very simple to swap out and then delete the code. Be careful of the aluminum heat shield when removing the rear sensor as it is likes to bite.

Good luck!

 

[Cruiser804]

Just got a quote on a new front sensor, gasket and nuts from SOR. 147.00 for the sensor, 8.00 for the gasket and 1.50 for the nuts.

Don't know how, I've had the truck 10 year but the sensor was not secured with any nuts and finally just poped out.

Bought a new front pipe beacuse I thought it was the source of the leak. Yikes 1200.00!

 

[Klunky Chris]

I forget if 94 was covered under the O2 sensor recall or not. I know I had my 93 sensors replaced for free w/ labor by Toyota since they were never done.

worth calling your favorite dealer to find out (If Dan or someone doesn't chime in)

 

[Vitesse_6]

I just replaced both of my o2, Mine were in front of both cat's.
Grolar I would say its a 1.5 banana job, If C-Dan can get them for you it might cost less, We have a sponsor therefore get a better price.
Go figure the inner one was easier to remove than the outer one even though you can plainly see the outer, Its most likely due to being more in the weather so to speak, Both nuts on the front(outer) o2 looked like cones from erosion, The Back(inner) o2 I felt was easier to look at from under the vehicle with your feet sticking out.
You will most likely only need a 10mm or 12mm wrench and a screwdriver to get the gasket off, Undo the harness and plug back in....Its that easy. I did mine a little soon after the drive home, Just be sure to let it cool for a bit, The cast iron Cat's stay hot for a while.
Good luck!
Good luck

 

[Grolar]

And now the ECL light doesn't show anymore... I definitely have to tame this rig (or it has to tame me ). Will send it to the mechanic next week for a complete 120 k service and check.
:shotts:

 

[Brentbba]

Same year as mine. Side by side on top of the exhaust pipes near the cats - don't remember exactly, but not hard to find.

Don't let a mechanic do it - mucho $$$ for an easy job. You can always drive down to south Orange County and I'll help you!

If your truck is CA born and raised, you probably won't have an issue with the nuts but a quick plast with PB Blaster or similar overnight will ensure an easy removal.

Send a PM to Crusierdan with your VIN. He can check to see if your O2 sensors have been serviced under the recall. '94 was part of that recall and Dan did double check to see on mine. He's the best parts manager you can deal with Grolar. Get the parts from him. I was a 1/2 banana mechanic then (no more than a one now) and I was able to change mine out. Only PIA IMHO was getting the molex connectors disconnected. BTW - ancient memory is that the nuts are 10mm or there abouts, two for each sensor.

 

[Grolar]

Brent: thanks for the useful advice and offer. I appreciate. I might do the trip one of this days as my landlord wouldn't let his backyard become an Autozone... Will keep you posted. Cheers. Grolar

 

[Hayes]

I just did mine.
The nuts on the 93 are 12mm.

I live in the land of salty roads. My nuts were pretty rusty.
PB Blaster did the trick.

I used the Bosch "OEM type" that were plug-and-play--but I had to Dremel the heat sheild a wee bit on the outside sensor--the base of the Bosch is bigger than the OEM.

Easy job.

Still on the first tank since the change, but I can already see that I'm getting significantly better mileage.

Hayes

 

[supercarrera]

How can everyone say this is an easy job? There's pretty much no room to get a wrench on the nuts. Do I really need to drop the exhaust or at the least, remove the heat shields? What am I missing here?

 

[Sc0-]

Past threads rumored that these are more effective and last LONGER, though you have to splice into the old o2 wiring harness so it will be plug and play.
Bosche 15728 02 sensor (does not work on '95 and up OBD2)

I, like a few others, am thinking about having the o2 sensors relocated to the PAIR injection sites... (don't know if anyone has actually done this)

 

[supercarrera]

Already have the oem sensors. I'd really like to get these replace but I've been at it for a couple hours. I really don't see how to get at them without dismantling the downpipes which I really don't want to do...

 

[Brindleboxer]

Super,

Try this link: http://www1.autozone.com/az/cds/en_.../0900823d80160fe2/repairInfoPages.htm#hd1-1-3

I looked under mine it it seems pretty striaght forward (1 in front and 1 behind). Does your have aftermarket protection? If so, you may have to do some added R/R.

Glen

 

[ginericLC]

I thought it was a real PITA. It took me 15 hours to do them the first time (non Toyota sensors). Those shields are terrible to work around. I finally ended up removing the downpipe so I could get a better look at them. Mine were very rusty and there is zero rust on my truck. I finally ended up pounding an 11mm socket on them to get them off. They had rusted that much. Those shields hold in mud and crap and make the studs and nuts rust even more. The second time was much easier and it only took me a half hour. I was glad I had coated the studs with antiseize. Don't buy non-OEM sensors. It isn't worth it.

 

[Cruisin'Carolina]

About to go in, equipped with Cdan's OEM parts.

I'm not removing the downpipe.

Any advantage to removing the shields altogether?

Another thread suggested bending them, but I don't get that other than not having to take of the clamp on the top end?

Worse case scenario, it looks like a few more rusty fastners to deal with (an my truck is Southern, and relatively clean otherwise) , is it worth it or should I just work around them?

 

[Sc0-]

Did mine with a 1/4" air ratchet, a boced/open wrench, ratcheting gear wrench, and a 1/4" socket wrench... Did not have to drop or remove anything other than the sensors. (assuming your nuts look like nuts sprayed PB blaster a day before hand, heat cycled it and afterwards before I touched them.) I do some wrenching on new Vw's and older Porsches, it was awkward and moreso if you have big hands but do-able.

Undid the outer one first the the room that it gave me was enough to get the inner one. Think it took me longer to find the inner sensor than it did for me to remove both of them. Install is reverse except I used some copper anti-seize on the threads. (was too lazy to go get some brass nuts)

 

[Grolar]

Wow, a one and a half year old thread raising from the dead!
I got my 02s from CDan and replaced by a local mechanic. Everything has been fine so far.

 

[stl93fzj80]

OK... I'm happy to know the milage is better and all, but how do you get to these things? I just found out my outer O2 sensor is leaking... tried to fix it... no nuts... rusted off. Easy fix, right? Not with that darn shield on there! how many of you have replaced your O2 sensors W/O the shield? I don't see an easy way of doing this and leaving the shield on. I'm 6'4", 200 lbs and can't get my hands in there! Removed the running board bracket, heat shields and still can't get up there to attach a box end wrench to the nuts on the stud. Any tips would be appreciated! thanks,
Doug

 

[super90]

Well, I just did this last week on my '94, which should be indentical to your truck. Admittedly, I have a lot of tools, and my truck is from dry country (another time it pays to buy a vehicle from dry country!), but it only took me about 45 min. PB Blaster is your friend here. I sprayed some on the nuts about an hour before I started. If your truck is not from dry country, spray that on a day ahead of time. Be generous.

I used a Gearwrench flex combination wrench (http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/wrenches/ratcheting/flex_combination/)
to take that outer heatshield off. This is the shield closest to the running board. There are two bolts that hold it on and with that wrench it comes off in about a minute. Use a 1/4" drive small ratchet and a 12mm socket to loosen the two nuts on that outter sensor. A ratchet with fine teeth is the best way to go; course teeth are pretty worthless on a 1/4" drive. I think Sears finally started making some good ratchets again and they might have one. They should have that Gearwrench set too, or your Lowe's or maybe Home Depot will have it. Anyhow, remove the nuts, pull little heat shield and the sensor, disconnect the lead and remove. You'll be glad you have parts from CDan and the new one goes in perfect with a new gasket, some anti-seize, new nuts, connect the lead, and snap the hold-down in the hole Mr. T put in the sheet metal for just such an occasion. Put the two bolts in that held the heat shield on. Sensor one done in about twenty minutes on a bad day.

Go to the next side, use same technique, but no heat shields to deal with. Bob's your uncle. Done.

This is a job where the proper tools make all the difference. Don't waste time, get the right tools, you'll use them again. You'll need that Gearwrench set when you want to take that upper hold-down bolt off the tube at the top of the PHH (Pesky Heater Hose) when you realize you need to do that too, if you haven't already. A good 1/4" drive metric ratchet set in invaluable. I'll say it again, fine-toothed ratchet.

If your fittings are rusted beyond recognition, I don't know what to tell you.

Keep the Cruiser Faith !