New oxygen sensor + installation, need help (1 Viewer)

[Vitesse_6]

Like I said in my original post, Mine was easy, Its possible mine didnt have heat shields, I didnt remove any or know what they look like? Also mine was hot when I did it, Not like 500 deg. hot but well over 100 deg. I dont know if this helped or not, I work with hot metal all day so my hands are use to it, So dont go and burn your fingers, I sprayed mine with PB blaster a few times while it was cooling down.
IIRC I even used a small curved vice grip to remove the eroded/worn bolts.
Good luck

Oh and stick with the OEM

 

[Chaldaean]

Yep, 'bout rusted beyond recognition

If your fittings are rusted beyond recognition, I don't know what to tell you.

In response to removing rusted fittings, I just replaced my after-cat O2 sensor this past weekend. I wouldn't have gotten the job done (easily) without the use of Craftsman "Bolt-Outs". If you are going to pick some up, just keep in mind that not all of them accept a ratchet (a must with the intention to save the O2 shroud) and not all sets have all the sizes included. One of the 3/8" sets I bought included a #2, #4, #5, #6 and #7. Of course, I needed a #3 to get M8 the nut off that is on the left in the attached image (the nut was completely round with corrosion). Luckily, I had also purchased a 1/4" drive set that includes a #3. By the way, a #5 fit the less corroded nut to the right in the image below. In addition, by the reviews on the Sears.com, if you purchase the "impact grade" Bolt-Outs, it is advised that you use them by hand as they are prone to fracture. I had no trouble with my non-impact grade sets.

After a week of PB Blaster, I heated the nuts until they were cherry red and then forced the Bolt-Outs on with a hammer and turned. I really was amazed that they worked and wanted to pass on the praise.

If that didn't work, I contemplated leaving that O2 sensor in there and then cutting a new hole next to it and welding one of Christo's bungs ( http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/products_drivetrain_driveshaft.htm ) in place in order to affix a new one; just leave the old one unplugged where it is. I'm glad I didn't have to resort to that plan.

This is my first post. I just bought the LX450 and IH8MUD has been really very helpful with my newbie questions that I wanted to pass on something. Thanks all.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Very nice - excellent input! I think a lot of us have been eyeing those rounded off bolts and dreading the day. Mine have never been anywhere but dry rust free areas and they're still rounded, so a lot of folks must have just nothing to work with.

Very nice of you to post the pics and especially the sizes needed - will save some time and money for all!

DougM

 

[supercarrera]

Sometimes a smaller socket will work. Mine looked that bad and I just hammered on an 11mm socket to get it off pretty easily.

 

[Walking Eagle]

I end up welding something to the nuts often - either another nut on top of it, or a bar that I can then cut off and turn. Some times on ones like the O2 sensors, it's easier to just weld a nut to the stud and take the whole stud out and replace it. Those bolt outs do look useful though, might have to add those to the x-mas list for the wife.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

You'd think the manufacturer would splurge and put stainless steel nuts in this location (?)

 

[stl93fzj80]

OK, Thanks for the input... but I gotta jump back in here and clarify my question... The tools are a must... I get it, but what I'm asking is how do you get in there to work? Or, have ALL of you removed the exhaust pipe w/ the studs on it to get to it? Then I've got another set of nuts and bolts to deal with and those gaskets, right? Again, 6'4" >210lbs = no room for big hands...or tools for that matter, and definately no room for both!
Oh yea, Robert... "...Bob's your uncle. Done." Bob is my uncle! You must be psychotic... I mean psychic!
Thanks guys!

 

[LX'nTX'n]

I just replaced my O2's and it went pretty smooth. I simply laid on the ground under the passenger side of the vehicle and was able to access the 4 nuts easily. The front one was quite a bit easier than the rear, I'd reccomend a socket wrench with a closed end box wrench slipped over the end for some additional leverage to help pop those nuts loose. I did hit the whole area with PB Blaster 2 times prior to doing the actual work, not sure how much it helped... (probably a good bit) After doing the O2 sensors, my mileage jumped from 14mpg back to 16.6. At 3 bucks a gallon it shouldn't take too long to pay 'em off. I paid about 200 bucks for the 2 from Sparkplugs.com, they are the Denso ones. I think even if you have big hands, the job shouldnt be too hard, just get creative with how you reach the nuts, I think I went over the pipe with my hand to get to the front. A socket wrench and a 4" extension should be plenty. GOOD LUCK!

 

[Beowulf]

I think even if you have big hands, the job shouldnt be too hard, just get creative with how you reach the nuts, I think I went over the pipe with my hand to get to the front.

You have a '97 with dual in-line cats. stl93fzj80 has a '93 with dual side-by-side cats.

-B-

 

[womacje]

for a different way to tackle this dilema... I cleaned the threads on the studs and the threaded on new nuts down to the now conical rust lumps of expired nut. Of course I coated them with lots of Kroil prior, then I just tightened down the new nuts, cleaning the threads and adding compression to the old until the old nuts cracked cracked and fell off. So that's me and my truck is a Mn truck and I think its an easy project that can take forever and is a PITA with the potential of working out nicely. C-Dan all the way. Anti-siege may just save your life in the future.

 

[LX'nTX'n]

my bad! well watch out, those suckers stay hot for a while!

 

[Cruisin'Carolina]

I did mine, bought some Irwin bolt outs, took off that side shield, wish I had heeded the advice about the box-end ratchet, I ended up taking off the downpipes, which opened up a new can of worms (94, the side by side cats) as the nuts on the exhaust flange going to the cats( on my exceptionally clean otherwise rust free truck) were as bad or worse as the little ones.

Also, when taking off the bottom heat shield, the studs broke so I had to drill thru it when reinstalling and secure with new bolts.

It sucked. Badly.

 

[fiberboy]

Question, What size are the studs? i have to buy new nuts and want to get the correct size. Also I ordered new sensors from C-dan the part numbers are different, does it matter which sensor goes where? If so which goes where? Thanks, I'm going to do this this weekend.

 

[Vitesse_6]

I dont think it matters what bolt size you use as long as they can take some heat...I dont know if they are anything special or not?!?
As for the placement, as long as you have them plugged into the correct wiring all will be well, IIRC they dont have a long pigtail, So its hard to mix them up as far as the wiring goes.
BUT...You have a 92, So I may just be blowing smoke
Good luck

 

[scoop]

Just got new o2 sensors from cdan. 206.00 for both. I am going to change them out in the morning. Do I need to clear the code or will it go away?

 

[Beowulf]

It might go away. Best to pull the EFI fuse for about 30 seconds and put it back in. The ECU will hunt for a few minutes and repeat for a few cycles until the fuel mapping values stabilize.
-B-

 

[scoop]

It is an easy job on 97. I took the fwd running board brace off and used PB blaster last night. 12mm boxed end wrench. 1hr flat. I will post any MPG change.

 

[landcruising]

97 O2 Sensor not so easy

After removing the running boards for future sliders and spraying PB blaster 3 times at 2 weeks in advance, 1 week in advance and the night before. Mind you my cruiser has been in souther california all its life but I could tell that the bolts would be a problem. The front came off very easy 5 minutes. The back one with the heat shield was and still is a big PITA and has still not been removed. I purchased the bolt out as a prior thread had suggested and got the front nut off easily. After 4 hours of different methods laying on my back on concrete I gave up. I tryed different sizes, different ratchets and wrenches, warming it up, a hammer, smaller sockets etc. I even considered trying the dremmel but was beat after contorting my body under the 80 this long (I'm 6'6" 250 lbs so you can use your imagination) I guess after working on the 80 I will soon become a mechanic. Look out PHH here I come. And I thought working on my FJ40 with a V8 conversion was hard to work on, not even close.

I spent the next day calling and visiting different autoparts and hardware stores locally to find a nut splitter as an option. All were too big. I measured the opening to get a splitter in and there is only about 1" clear space around the Shield. So I ordered the smallest nut splitter I could find that was in a set of three $20 shipped, the #1 fits a 9-12 mm bolt. Hope this works.

Anybody ever use a nut splitter, what results should I expect?

 

[archie]

If it doesn't work use a dremel with a cutoff wheel. You don't need to cut thru just enough to get close enough to threads to smack it with a chisel. If you do damage the threads, you could just stack some washers on top of the O2 sensor brackets and put the nuts higher up on the post where you didn't damage the threads. Don't forget to put in new gaskets or you might get a noisy exhaust leak.

 

[Romer]

Doing my daughters truck, the front came off easy for me. The rear was a pain and part of it is you just can't get leverage lying on your back, so after spending 90 minutes on the rear, I took it to a shop and paid them to remove the rear bolts as that was not how I wanted to spend an entire day. $50 was more than worth it to me and they did it in about 30 minutes. They had to hammer an 11mm socket on there. I tried that but just didn't have the leverage.


Fortunately for me, the rear bolts on my truck were much easier.