- Thread starter
- #41
A few more pics,i welded the ends of a/iron then spot welded in between.
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New horse in the stable
- Thread starter wombat
- Start date
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so my burning and squirting gave you the itch eh?
(yeah, I went there again....
)looks good, a lot more factory looking than my bib ended up...
Looks good. 
Now I've got a better idea what I'll have to do with mine.
Now I've got a better idea what I'll have to do with mine.
asutherland
VA7 HDT
Now i am on the outside body panels of the tub and have switched to 18ga My first patch turned out better than i thought it would.
hehhehehe... this picture reminds me of that thing that dropped off the bottom of the car in the first Fast and Furious movie... you know, "Danger - manifold pressure!!!!!"
- Thread starter
- #45
Now im on the hood,if it looks familiar check this out.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-bc-vancouver-island-cruisers/434511-new-look.html
While sanding and removing surface rust etc. i found it had more colours than a gay pride parade
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-bc-vancouver-island-cruisers/434511-new-look.html
While sanding and removing surface rust etc. i found it had more colours than a gay pride parade
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While sanding and removing surface rust etc. i found it had more colours than a gay pride parade
And that's after some colours had previously been removed.
Hope it's going well.
- Thread starter
- #47
I am getting carried away again,i was just going to splash and dash the hood but found that most of the rust sits between the inner frame and outer shell so out comes the spot weld remover and poof out comes the inner frame to get at the rust. A couple of spots on the front of the frame were a little thin so i cut off and welded in new pieces.
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Looking good. Keep up the good work.
So are you wishing you had never bought that hood?
So are you wishing you had never bought that hood?
great work vern! let me know if you need a weekend hand at all...
- Thread starter
- #50
No regrets,there is no such thing as a rust free used hood in Canada and a new hood is at least 600.00 and when im done it will be better protected from rust than a new hood.
$600, that's insane. If only we could convince ICBC they were worth something. But that's a whole new thread.
- Thread starter
- #52
I got the bikersmurf hood ready for paint and was removing the 42 hood insulation for test fitting and realized that the 42 hood has a few differences such as brackets for attaching insulation. I wasnt going to repair this hood because of where the rust was there was curves and angles that looked difficult to fab. I went back and saw what dieseler did on his and decided to give it a go. Because the bikersmurf hood was now going on the 40 and the 40 hood was going to the "goatshed" the original 40 hood could be my sacrificial goat.I just have to hit it with some icing and primer and she will be ready for paint.
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- Thread starter
- #53
The curves on the left front side of the hood were almost the same as the right front so i made up a template hacked out a chunk and a few sparks and grinds later i have a rust free original 42 hood.
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- Thread starter
- #54
ambliance door bottoms
Now im on to the back doors,it was going to cost about 300.00 for ccot bottoms so i thought i would repair mine instead. First the front.
Now im on to the back doors,it was going to cost about 300.00 for ccot bottoms so i thought i would repair mine instead. First the front.
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- Thread starter
- #55
Now the bottoms
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Nice work Vern! ... I need to do the same to my amby doors... I have two sets actually so I'll probably make a set of half doors as well!
Nice work there... the pics send me back a few years when I rebuilt my hood it is very satisfying when you achieve the end result...I have a amby door in the garage that needs some loving also but on mine it is where the lower latch indent is that needs to be done still has me scratching my head on how to tackle it and still function with the locking latch.
Also I have side panels that I had to dissasemble into their separate layers form and bend the new pieces and spot weld back into place along with rebuilding front and rear post just about finished.
Keep up the good work always watching for your updates.
Also I have side panels that I had to dissasemble into their separate layers form and bend the new pieces and spot weld back into place along with rebuilding front and rear post just about finished.
Keep up the good work always watching for your updates.
- Thread starter
- #58
Dieseler- I had some grief around the latch as well,if you look at the first pic in post#54 you can see a square hole i cut first to get at the latch bolts. After soaking in pen oil for a day i was able to get bolts loose to remove latch and see how bad it was. What i did seem to work instead of fabbing one piece i did it in 2 or 3 sections.I used the face plate of the latch to mark the correct spot to drill and spot weld a captive nut. I still need to clean it up a bit and primer etc. but i have mounted the latch and it works great.
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- Thread starter
- #59
Now the other ambi door
before
before
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- Thread starter
- #60
And after just waiting for a little icing and primer
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