- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,204
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #121
Man. I only got 10,000
Yes, because you are a smart shopper and don't have one of them S/C thingamabobs.
New Gooey Stuff
- Thread starter Tools R Us
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Yes, because you are a smart shopper and don't have one of them S/C thingamabobs.
Hey, if it's working good for you, then your cool, or is that "KOOL!"? The bad news is that the S/C does create more engine heat. Ya gotta pay to play!! So along with coolant temps, I also monitor intake air temp and exhaust temp. I can stay out of the fun pedal if it starts getting warmer that what I am comfortable with. Unfortunately, there is not absolute science about the safe range on those other two temps either. That's why I like having as much surplus cooling capacity as reasonably possible. JohnYes, because you are a smart shopper and don't have one of them S/C thingamabobs.
It will get more exciting when the 110° days arrive. I dont miss my S/C at all.
Last summer I ran Crown King in August, and there were a couple of places where the coolant got up to 215, so I shut off the A/C and it went back down. Speaking of which, do you guys have the gap under the A/C condenser blocked off? I can imagine a lot of air flow getting sucked into the radiator that is bypassing the condenser thru that gap. I would think that would lower vent temps at least 5 - 10 degrees.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,204
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #126
Haven't tried it. If you look at the later rigs, Tundra/Sequoia/etc, they have sheet metal "wings" that shroud the condenser, would be easy to bend and install. My guess is some improvement in A/C vent, likely not 10F, will raise airflow restriction, possibly increasing coolant temp?
That's kinda what I thought. It might block too much flow. But, it might be a fun and easy test to see if it really makes a difference.
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2003
- Threads
- 276
- Messages
- 1,581
- Location
- flagstaff, Az , 86004
- Website
- www.adventuredriven.com
mmmmm, now thats a nice looking fan clutch, oh how nice 
Sledge
Sledge
Just storing the notes on sledge916's black hub.
Adjusted the valve, first opening at 120F, Boot toe fully open at 160F and full boot open at 195F. The fill is 45ml of 12,500. Looks/feels good, hopefully wont smoke the belts off!
These early Aisin clutches are the bomb, too bad they are no longer available.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,204
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #129
Kevin, how much turn around time do you need if I were to bring you my blue hub? What would you recommend: 17-20k goo?
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,204
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #131
If you bring one tonight, likely mid next week.
Nope, no SC for this kid. I will get used to bring passed going up the hill... one daybut it won't be tomorrow
wait until it's the blue 40
New Fan Clutch
Hey Guys,
Since I'm new to this forum and don't really know anyone. Who should I contact to get my fan clutch replaced. I was told that it needed to be replaced when I got a new radiator. I would like to take advantage of the cooler a/c since its starting to warm up. I have a 97 with the original fan clutch and 180k miles. Thanks !
Bryan
Hey Guys,
Since I'm new to this forum and don't really know anyone. Who should I contact to get my fan clutch replaced. I was told that it needed to be replaced when I got a new radiator. I would like to take advantage of the cooler a/c since its starting to warm up. I have a 97 with the original fan clutch and 180k miles. Thanks !
Bryan
Howdy! Unless it is physically damaged, or it is leaking a lot, it should be serviceable. Basically you drain and refill it with a heavier grade of silicone fluid. Lots of background on this if you go back to the beginning of this thread. You can also search MUD for similar threads that go into great detail on the subject. Very common mod here in the Vally of the Sun. John
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,204
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #135
Some early 2F/3FE clutch knowledge: All of the Aisin clutches that I have worked on have been marked, but this is not always true, the red hub isn't. Have done a few of them, but never paid that much attention to them, simple design, like the 22RE type.
The valve is very simple, with a short range, starts opening at ~120F and is fully open at ~150F. Not that this is horrible, but is basically on or off, little variance/progressiveness in power.
The shearing area is small, so will take thick fluid to make good power. The shearing area is the ring marked in red, just a simple, small, flat surface. Didn't take a pic, so this one was stolen, fair and square.
The valve is very simple, with a short range, starts opening at ~120F and is fully open at ~150F. Not that this is horrible, but is basically on or off, little variance/progressiveness in power.
The shearing area is small, so will take thick fluid to make good power. The shearing area is the ring marked in red, just a simple, small, flat surface. Didn't take a pic, so this one was stolen, fair and square.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,204
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #136
Mikeob1 sent one over, is a green/aqua hub, marked Aisin. Very nice design, pretty much like the black/early blue hub for the 1FZ.
Has a ribbed shearing area, greatly increasing the shearing surface area. This makes it much more powerful with lower viscosity fluid. Marked red in the first pic.
The valve is much more complex/improved. The area marked in green (2nd pic) opens first at ~120F, it only supplies fluid to the outer part of the shearing ridges, used for lightly loaded cruising. The toe of the boot opens next (marked yellow), ~140F, supplies some fluid to all of the shearing area, used for heavily loaded cruising. The main part of the boot (marked red) is fully open at ~200F, this dumps fluid to all of the shearing ridges, making big power, this is mainly used for heat soak idle. The valve is also adjustable.
IMHO this is the holy grail clutch for desert operation. Would be good to know what the original install years/application was? There maybe other clutches of the same design? Looking for more cores from 2F/3FE motors to evaluate.
Has a ribbed shearing area, greatly increasing the shearing surface area. This makes it much more powerful with lower viscosity fluid. Marked red in the first pic.
The valve is much more complex/improved. The area marked in green (2nd pic) opens first at ~120F, it only supplies fluid to the outer part of the shearing ridges, used for lightly loaded cruising. The toe of the boot opens next (marked yellow), ~140F, supplies some fluid to all of the shearing area, used for heavily loaded cruising. The main part of the boot (marked red) is fully open at ~200F, this dumps fluid to all of the shearing ridges, making big power, this is mainly used for heat soak idle. The valve is also adjustable.
IMHO this is the holy grail clutch for desert operation. Would be good to know what the original install years/application was? There maybe other clutches of the same design? Looking for more cores from 2F/3FE motors to evaluate.
Very cool info. Green is good!
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,204
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
- Thread starter
- #138
This mystery is solved? Did Otter's, looks to be original to his '91 FJ80 and is the same green/aqua hub Aisin as above. If this is still the replacement for that application from the dealer, it would be a great upgrade clutch for FJ60 & 62, strong clutch and will bolt on.
Put ~12,500 in it, will see how the belts like that?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/members/otter.html
Last edited:
Thanks for all the great info everyone. 
I just completed installing my newly filled green fan clutch on my 3FE with 20K CST and I have noticed a dramatic improvement in the temps and the sound of the fan clutch. However I may have inadvertently put in ~50mL of fluid. Does anyone know if this will impact the performance?
Also, I have left my cruiser to idle for quite sometime with the A/C on and while the fan clutch does seem to engage more than before it still is lacking the initial startup roar and the fan clutch is quite easy to move after shutting it off (not sure if that means anything). Again, without this thread I don't think I would have known a fan clutch was serviceable and was most likely the culprit to my cooling woes.
I just completed installing my newly filled green fan clutch on my 3FE with 20K CST and I have noticed a dramatic improvement in the temps and the sound of the fan clutch. However I may have inadvertently put in ~50mL of fluid. Does anyone know if this will impact the performance?Also, I have left my cruiser to idle for quite sometime with the A/C on and while the fan clutch does seem to engage more than before it still is lacking the initial startup roar and the fan clutch is quite easy to move after shutting it off (not sure if that means anything). Again, without this thread I don't think I would have known a fan clutch was serviceable and was most likely the culprit to my cooling woes.
how'd this clutch like the 12,500?This mystery is solved? Did Otter's, looks to be original to his '91 FJ80 and is the same green/aqua hub Aisin as above. If this is still the replacement for that application from the dealer, it would be a great upgrade clutch for FJ60 & 62, strong clutch and will bolt on.
Put ~12,500 in it, will see how the belts like that?