New Gooey Stuff

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Well when I separated the 2 halves, the ring stayed on one side but it "seemed" to be a larger diameter than the groove (stretched I guess you would say). I let the 2 pieces lean against one another while I worked on the LC in my blazing hot garage (I call it the steam room) and just before I came in I laid the one half down and worked it back into the groove. It now stays in the groove for now. I hope this does not pose a problem.
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azTony said:
Well when I separated the 2 halves, the ring stayed on one side but it "seemed" to be a larger diameter than the groove (stretched I guess you would say). I let the 2 pieces lean against one another while I worked on the LC in my blazing hot garage (I call it the steam room) and just before I came in I laid the one half down and worked it back into the groove. It now stays in the groove for now. I hope this does not pose a problem.
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It will be fine, have been known to shorten them if needed.
 
Kevin's "Da Man!"

He got me all fixed up with the "Gooey Stuff" and back on the road. I have not driven it anywhere yet, just got the fan back in around midnight last night. There is a noticeable difference in the before and after feel of the clutch. Time will tell the first time I drive it. Thanks Kevin!!!
 
Leave it to a.mus.ed to make a comment about a o-ring not looking so good in a "Gooey stuff" thread. Why dont you just tell us all the real story about you and the high school boys you hang out with all day. Freak.
 
Sorry Shannon, I thought that was directed at me. That will teach me to post before I drink my morning coffee.
 
So what is the life span on the "gooey stuff"? I have a friend with a '60 that is asking me. Seems he is interested after I did mine.
 
azTony said:
So what is the life span on the "gooey stuff"? I have a friend with a '60 that is asking me. Seems he is interested after I did mine.
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My observation/guess is; it depends on the design of the clutch, use, temp, etc. It gradually looses the ability to transfer torque, so replacing it occasionally is good PM. In the Toyota clutches it tends to last a long time.
 
Tools R Us said:
Damn it man!:hillbilly: Further review shows that the above draining method is only good for the Aisin clutch. The Eaton has an anti drain back provision, the pump out port comes to the center of the reservoir, so draining that way will be slow and likely to leave some old fluid in the clutch. The best method would be to prop the valve open and lay it flat.

Anyone with an Eaton who didn't notice as big of a difference as hoped, this is likely the reason. I'm open to redoing them.:o:hillbilly:
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Kevin, thank you for posting this correction concerning the Eaton. I laid the Eaton from my '97 flat after a couple of hours in 95* sun and within five minutes mucho more fluid drained out of it. That does help explain some of the posts I've read about fluid changes in Eatons not being as effective as folks had hoped for. I'll be adding 50ml of 10,000 cst for Colorado cruising.
 
Just storing the notes on sledge916's black hub.

Adjusted the valve, first opening at 120F, Boot toe fully open at 160F and full boot open at 195F. The fill is 45ml of 12,500. Looks/feels good, hopefully wont smoke the belts off!:hillbilly:

These early Aisin clutches are the bomb, too bad they are no longer available.:mad:
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