New Glass Run? Yes, please.

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I finally got around to doing this on my DS and although pricey, I would encourage anybody with slow windows (in my case, only during winter), wind noise or a window that rattles to bite the bullet and slap one in. Took about 10 minutes start to finish and was much easier than some have mentioned (I wore mechanics gloves for a good grip which helped a lot when shoving the new run down the door).

So much nicer on the highway now. YMMV on whether or not it fixes a loose window that rattles. It did in my case. Window rolls up in a little under 4 seconds now whereas before, well, I had to help it up during cold weather. I can now approach any drive-thru with complete confidence. :p

--Mark
 
Mark, good to hear.. Where did you source the parts? Ant install pics and tips?
 
I snagged them from 68151-60010 - OEM Toyota RUN, FR DOOR GLASS. I don't have photos but they simply are not needed. It was that simple. I literally rolled the window all the way down, pulled out the old run and stuffed the new back in. I started at the leading edge of the window when installing the new run. Mechanics gloves helped a great deal but were not necessary until the very end. I could not get the last 3-4" inches of the run down the window. I slapped the gloves on for a better grip and down it went. I'll probably order the PS soon.

HTH.

--Mark
 
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I snagged them from 68151-60010 - OEM Toyota RUN, FR DOOR GLASS. I don't have photos but they simply are not needed. It was that simple. I literally rolled the window all the way down, pulled out the old run and stuffed the new back in. I started at the leading edge of the window when installing the new run. Mechanics gloves helped a great deal but were not necessary until the very end. I could not get the last 3-4" inches of the run down the window. I slapped the gloves on for a better grip and down it went. I'll probably order the PS soon.

HTH.

--Mark

Excellent. I will probably priority this fix as it can get quite brutal rolling down the window.
 
When you pulled the old run out, was it all gunked up? What was it about the old run do you think that was causing the window to hang on it?

Thanks,
Ryan

It did not seem gunked up. It was however, much harder and more rigid than the new run. The new run was very pliable in comparison.
 
Thanks Mark...
 
Do you remember what the run material was made of? I always thought they were metal, but never looked.

It did not seem gunked up. It was however, much harder and more rigid than the new run. The new run was very pliable in comparison.
 
The window runs are rubber, the glass channel (what attaches the glass to the regulator) is steel.
 
This is why I call cdan ;), glad it worked for you. Mine are slow as well, just haven't jumped into fixing.
window.webp
 
retrofive said:
This is why I call cdan ;), glad it worked for you. Mine are slow as well, just haven't jumped into fixing.

Ha. Yah, they messed that up a bit. It's convenient to order online if you know what you're looking for.
 
good to hear it helps with slow roll up. i've been thinking of doing it for rattling reasons, but i also have a bit of slow window.
 
This is why I call cdan ;), glad it worked for you. Mine are slow as well, just haven't jumped into fixing.

Is his price better than that website?

Thanks!
 
:D

That is the exact reason why I avoid them these days. I rather just go in and get my stuff.

I would forget my window would not go down while I was pulling up to pay and would panic! Those days are gone!
 
Is his price better than that website?

Thanks!

I believe they are comparable but do not know for sure. What I find funny is that they are about $5 higher for an LX450 on the Lexus parts zone site. :rolleyes:
 
Just replaced my drivers door run. Did it while replacing the window ( s###head busted it for no reason). Very easy to replace. The window is still pretty slow. It is faster without the inner weather strip in place. Would replacing the inner weather strip help the window move up faster/easier?

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
I did all mine today except the FPS. When I run the FDS and FPS at the same time the FDS definitely goes up a lot faster.

One suggestion I would make is to pop the door panel so you can reach up inside the door and pull the rubber down into door. I just couldn't get it by pushing. I pushed it as far as I could, rolled up the window as far as I could without pinching the rubber that wasn't in the track. Then I reached up inside and pulled the run down. Worked great.
 
Apparently I am going to require this fix. Or it could be the bubbled up purple, pealing, creased tint from the PO. :)
 

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