New FJ60 Owner, seeking advice

[B10Resto]

Hey Mudders,

I recently purchased a beautiful '81 FJ60, and after quite a bit of research, I have a few questions on what should be done initially, as I will not have a service record for the car.

I am planning on replacing the fluids as soon as the truck arrives, rebuilding knuckles, and other minor work. Should the suspension be in good shape, it will stay, but would like to go with an OME kit at some point.

The truck has its orig 2F and 4spd tranny, and is rolling on some BFG 31x10.5 tires. No rust from what I have seen, and it was originally an AZ 1 owner.

What I am hoping is that you guys could point me in the right direction for what I should check when I get the truck, as well as some ideas for initial work that should be done. Also I have some questions about rust protection and prevention, as I am in the northeast, and the salt is brutal on these classics.

Any help is great help, and pictures to follow soon. Super stoked on joining the FJ club, and looking forward to treasuring this truck for years to come.

 

[FJACS]

Does the truck need to pass any emissions tests?

 

[B10Resto]

Does the truck need to pass any emissions tests?

From what I understand the truck is exempt from MA smog laws.

 

[Cincodemustache]

Hey Neighbor, you are correct on emissions. No sniffer on non- OBD vehicles, just a visual of the tailpipe. No blue or visible smoke and you should be good for a sticker. Congrats on the purchase!!

 

[OSS]

I say that checking/adjusting the cylinder head valve clearances should be tops on the list. Super important to make sure that the exhaust valves are not too tight.

 

[crashmonk]

Back when I was sportin' the ol 2heffer, I had a bad engine mount. It was completely separated and would make the fan hit the shroud under acceleration.

I remember a bronze bushing in one of the gears in my t case was bad, not sure how you would check that without disassembly.

When you get it, put it in 4wd and drive hard left and right, if it's silent your knuckles are probably ok.

I had to adjust the steering joint connectors and tighten up the steering box a bit.

Check for wet carpet? I think cruisers have a couple drains that can plug up.

Hmmm what else...

 

[B10Resto]

Thanks for the help so far! Hoping to keep this thread going not only for my personal vehicle, but also for others who purchase one in the future. These are classic cars, and they deserve to be one the road! Merry Christmas to all, hope you were on the nice list. (same for any holiday!)

 

[NMfjCruiser]

I second the valve adjustment and add the galley plug. I had a Toyota mechanic and 60 enthusiast tell me if you keep the valve adjusted and change the oil the 2f will go 300k miles.
We want pictures....

 

[lovetoski]

Welcome.
Do you have any wrenching experience? Not asking in the sense of comparing “size” but just to start the conversation.
Base lining is the starting point. Replace all fluids, grease suspension points. Check and replace as appropriate - plugs, points, cap, rotor, wires, fuel filter, air filter, brake pads, etc.
Replace brake and clutch fluid. Coolant could be included, as could power steering fluid.
Worn tie rod ends are a common source of aggravation.
Battery, alternator, fusible link, wiper blades, grounds, horn ring, etc.
Buy AAA, drive it, fix what breaks.
Welcome.

 

[g-man]

Check out the top section of the 60's forum and look at the "60's series FAQ" thread and the "how to videos". Also go here:

For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

click on and save as a file any pertinent FSM (field service manual) with 2f, 60 or from 1980 to 1987 and thank trollhole for letting us copy his library.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Interested in pictures . Would suggest you don't modify it too much. The closer to stock the better long term. Only reason is there were very few 81's dropped into the lower 48. Congratulation and good luck with this cruiser. You found a great source of info here on MUD.

 

[B10Resto]

Will post pictures in more detail as soon as I get the car. Bought sight unseen through GR Auto Gallery out of Michigan, still needs to be shipped to my location in MA. I have some experience wrenching on cars, but not a ton. Rebuilding knuckles, installing OME kit, and maybe bolting up an H55 are within my means, but thats about the limits of my skills. On a hunting trip in Utah I had the opportunity to work on my uncle's 60, and it was a blast. Looking forward to learning more! The car has been repainted in the original red, and the interior is red as well! It was too ugly to pass up, so cool! Wanted a truck with a good solid body, as I am admittedly not an amazing fabricator (still teaching myself to weld).

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

“Too ugly to pass up.” Sounds like something I’d say. The uglier the better!
Those red seats are hilarious!
Congrats. Where in MA are you? I’m in CT. Also check out in the clubhouse section, Yankee Toys. Good bunch of folks tho not many meets, the Fall Gathering is always a good time.
Felicity

 

[60Works]

Welcome to Mud.

That looks like a very nice Cruiser. I would highly recommend NOT driving it in the winter. Ever. Even with extensive undercoating and oiling, just one drive in the road brine will ruin it slowly. Just one drive and, even if you moved it back to AZ, it would rust the frame, rockers, and wheel wells. It's like radiation exposure.

I coat my cars with Fluid Film everywhere, engine bay, inside the rockers, doors, and pillars, every inch underneath and they still get cancer. The only solution is to not drive them until after the April rains wash the salt away and have a winter 'salt-driver' as a sacrifice.

This 60 was clean when I move here and after a mere 8 years it looked like this:

 

[B10Resto]

Welcome to Mud.

That looks like a very nice Cruiser. I would highly recommend NOT driving it in the winter. Ever. Even with extensive undercoating and oiling, just one drive in the road brine will ruin it slowly. Just one drive and, even if you moved it back to AZ, it would rust the frame, rockers, and wheel wells. It's like radiation exposure.

I coat my cars with Fluid Film everywhere, engine bay, inside the rockers, doors, and pillars, every inch underneath and they still get cancer. The only solution is to not drive them until after the April rains wash the salt away and have a winter 'salt-driver' as a sacrifice.

This 60 was clean when I move here and after a mere 8 years it looked like this:

View attachment 1598402


View attachment 1598400

I was thinking about utilizing POR-15 for the undercarriage, but those pics are definitely sobering.

 

[B10Resto]

Does anyone have experience with POR-15 or any similar rust protectant? I have used Chassis Saver before on an old F-550 dump truck, is it the same idea?

 

[60Works]

There is a hot dip galvanizer in Boston who can coat your frame. That would help but wouldn't protect the body. Painting, even POR, will only protect the outside. Toyota used sandwich layers of C-channel to build the frame. Once exposed, there is no way to adequately flush the salt out of the overlaps.

POR is quite hazardous to apply without professional level PBE and filtered ventilation. Not being a ninny, just recommending that people read the MSDS sheets and note the cumulative effects. It's not just paint.

Here's another MA truck horror story:

 

[g-man]

Will post pictures in more detail as soon as I get the car. Bought sight unseen through GR Auto Gallery out of Michigan, still needs to be shipped to my location in MA. I have some experience wrenching on cars, but not a ton. Rebuilding knuckles, installing OME kit, and maybe bolting up an H55 are within my means, but thats about the limits of my skills. On a hunting trip in Utah I had the opportunity to work on my uncle's 60, and it was a blast. Looking forward to learning more! The car has been repainted in the original red, and the interior is red as well! It was too ugly to pass up, so cool! Wanted a truck with a good solid body, as I am admittedly not an amazing fabricator (still teaching myself to weld).

View attachment 1598384

View attachment 1598385

View attachment 1598386

Looks like a decent paint job. I'd have to take off those side mirrors if it were mine. Red interior makes it one of none!! But I'd live with it.

 

[gregnash]

Nice truck and definitely a "too ugly to pass up" type truck. Hey just think of it this way, no one will ever want to steal it and be seen in it. AAAANNNNDDDD you will stand out so if someone you know DOES see someone else driving it you will get an immediate call!

Rust prevention - look at the stuff like PO15, Chassis Saver, etc. to coat the underside of the truck. For where you live though, best prevention is to NOT DRIVE IT during the months where there is salt on the road.

Other things to do after receiving;
- change all fluids and baseline
- adjust valves like @OSS said
- check and adjust brake system and replace pads and shoes (just so you know how much life they have, and since you are planning to do the knuckles take the rotors and drums in to be machined just to clean them up.)
- possibly flush the coolant in the system (especially if you dont know how old it is or what "mixture" is in there)
- apply for special bank account or credit card with Georg @ Valley Hybrid, Onur @ LandCruiser Specialties, Kurt @ Cruiser Outfitters, and the others as authorized users on the account so you can just speed dial them and have parts ready!
- Drive your new 60 so that you get to know her and see if anything else pops up that needs attention

 

[FirstFJ60]

Check out the top section of the 60's forum and look at the "60's series FAQ" thread and the "how to videos". Also go here:

For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

click on and save as a file any pertinent FSM (field service manual) with 2f, 60 or from 1980 to 1987 and thank trollhole for letting us copy his library.

2nd that regarding 60 series FAQs...especially Galley Plug...if not done.