New F & 2F carbs (2 Viewers)

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Marc,

What he meant is that the dizzy in the 60 series has electronic iginition. It also has a fully sealed cap, and a larger diameter cap, which are all preferable traits. The sealed cap, uses an O-ring and bolts to secure the cap and seal, along with vents into the cab under the glovebox, so water cannot get in it. The larger cap virtually elimnates any chance of misfires between spark plug wire posts. But most importantly the dissy is very well contructed, and utilizes electronics to determine when to fire the spark. It will have some mechanical advance, plus the two vacum actuated advancers.

Trollholes dissy is a copy of a very simple vacum advance distributor used on cruisers in the early years and in genearl markets worldwide after that. I uses mechanical points for timing the spark however, and smaller lid, etc... that would be a big step back for you. Points will require some upkeep and tuning to keep running at their prime. I can say from personal experience that a dizzy in a 60 will work flawlessly with almost no attention for a very, very long time.

Trolls dizzys are a nice upgrade for earlier cruisers, becasue many had vacum retard emmision controlled distributors that really hamper how the engine performs.
 
Marc,

What he meant is that the dizzy in the 60 series has electronic iginition. It also has a fully sealed cap, and a larger diameter cap, which are all preferable traits. The sealed cap, uses an O-ring and bolts to secure the cap and seal, along with vents into the cab under the glovebox, so water cannot get in it. The larger cap virtually elimnates any chance of misfires between spark plug wire posts. But most importantly the dissy is very well contructed, and utilizes electronics to determine when to fire the spark. It will have some mechanical advance, plus the two vacum actuated advancers.

Trollholes dissy is a copy of a very simple vacum advance distributor used on cruisers in the early years and in genearl markets worldwide after that. I uses mechanical points for timing the spark however, and smaller lid, etc... that would be a big step back for you. Points will require some upkeep and tuning to keep running at their prime. I can say from personal experience that a dizzy in a 60 will work flawlessly with almost no attention for a very, very long time.

Trolls dizzys are a nice upgrade for earlier cruisers, becasue many had vacum retard emmision controlled distributors that really hamper how the engine performs.

Ah...thanks for the education. That makes sense to me....Appreciate the help.

Marc
 
Very, Very well put.:clap:


Marc,

What he meant is that the dizzy in the 60 series has electronic iginition. It also has a fully sealed cap, and a larger diameter cap, which are all preferable traits. The sealed cap, uses an O-ring and bolts to secure the cap and seal, along with vents into the cab under the glovebox, so water cannot get in it. The larger cap virtually elimnates any chance of misfires between spark plug wire posts. But most importantly the dissy is very well contructed, and utilizes electronics to determine when to fire the spark. It will have some mechanical advance, plus the two vacum actuated advancers.

Trollholes dissy is a copy of a very simple vacum advance distributor used on cruisers in the early years and in genearl markets worldwide after that. I uses mechanical points for timing the spark however, and smaller lid, etc... that would be a big step back for you. Points will require some upkeep and tuning to keep running at their prime. I can say from personal experience that a dizzy in a 60 will work flawlessly with almost no attention for a very, very long time.

Trolls dizzys are a nice upgrade for earlier cruisers, becasue many had vacum retard emmision controlled distributors that really hamper how the engine performs.
 
Marshall, I guess I read your warning too late and now I will have to wait. I need that FJ60 carb, any chance you still have one around? email me at et3surge@msn.com please I check several times a day. Also, if there is a wait then send me an address to send a money order to. Thanks

By the way I know I should de-smog before installing your carb, in your opinion which is the most recommendable de-smog method? I have seen so many.

Thanks again

Sergio
 
Marshall,
I'd like to get one of your carbs for a 74 FJ40 with the 1.5f with high altitude jets. I'm attaching pictures of my current set up (holley w/lokar cable).
CIMG2986.jpg
CIMG2987.jpg
CIMG2991.jpg
 
Carb install

1974 FJ40 with 2F

Got my carb installed today. I previously had a '75 Aisan that seemed to have issues. Here's pics. Twas easy. Had to bend the tube that is attached to the carb spacer (insulator) to make room for the primary throttle shaft that sticks out in front of the new carb. They lined up perfectly to be in the way of each other. My vocab terms might only make sense to me, cause I am unsure what to call it.

Course I prolly did something wrong.

Anyway, I cracked the spacer :doh: while trying to bend that tube and had to glue it back. Other than that, install was easy. Best $ I've spent so far trying to get my beast running good. Now, she purrrs, idle is smooth and even, starts without choke even here in cold Wyo. No stalling either. This carb is so much easier to figure out.

Only thing left to fix is she sputters and loses power under load or on inclines. Gonna look at getting a TH dizzy. Any idears?

Sarah
PM Sent
061.jpg
062.jpg
068.jpg
 
1974 FJ40 with 2F

Got my carb installed today. I previously had a '75 Aisan that seemed to have issues. Here's pics. Twas easy. Had to bend the tube that is attached to the carb spacer (insulator) to make room for the primary throttle shaft that sticks out in front of the new carb. They lined up perfectly to be in the way of each other. My vocab terms might only make sense to me, cause I am unsure what to call it.

Course I prolly did something wrong.

Anyway, I cracked the spacer :doh: while trying to bend that tube and had to glue it back. Other than that, install was easy. Best $ I've spent so far trying to get my beast running good. Now, she purrrs, idle is smooth and even, starts without choke even here in cold Wyo. No stalling either. This carb is so much easier to figure out.

Only thing left to fix is she sputters and loses power under load or on inclines. Gonna look at getting a TH dizzy. Any idears?

Sarah
PM Sent

Instead of bending the tube you can cut the shaft on the carb. I won't be offended. Sent you a long PM on the stalling issue.
 
More pics.

You will need a carb spacer at least with new studs. Also your choke cable may be too short but it wouldn't hurt to wait and see if what you have works. The throttle cable looks short. You need to have one at least a couple feet in length. And you might want to go back to a stock metal fuel line. Though there is nothing wrong with the rubber one you will need a little section of hard line, the compression nut and ferrul to bringe the soft line to my carb.
 
Hey Marshall - What carb kits fit your product? Do/will you stock them?

Don't currently stock them but that is something I will have in the future. If you need something just send me a pm I'm sure I have a spare. Also if your currently wanting to buy a carb kit. Buy one from SOR for a mid 80's Non USA carb.
 
You will need a carb spacer at least with new studs. Also your choke cable may be too short but it wouldn't hurt to wait and see if what you have works. The throttle cable looks short. You need to have one at least a couple feet in length. And you might want to go back to a stock metal fuel line. Though there is nothing wrong with the rubber one you will need a little section of hard line, the compression nut and ferrul to bringe the soft line to my carb.

Thanks! The stock spacer wont work? Do you sell longer choke cables if I need one? My throttle cable is a lokar, I can get a longer one. So what would the cost be? With high altitude jets. Is paypal the only payment plan you take? I have a paypal account, just a while since I used it.
Joe
 
I would like to order a carb. Not sure which I need. I have a '70 that has had the carb replaced with a third party then back to a stock carb by previous owners.

Do you have an ETA of when you will be getting them in?

PM sent.

Kevin
 
Thanks! The stock spacer wont work? Do you sell longer choke cables if I need one? My throttle cable is a lokar, I can get a longer one. So what would the cost be? With high altitude jets. Is paypal the only payment plan you take? I have a paypal account, just a while since I used it.
Joe



Stock spacer will work. From you pics I couldn't see it.

No longer choke cables. But you should be able to get one from Toyota (Later model), CCOT, SOR, etc...)

270 right now. That price may go up once I get them in.

Looking at 6-7 weeks.
 
New carb installed!

Trollhole, got the carb installed. Running a little rough but I'll hold off on carb questions until I get all this stuff below fixed.

First... since there is only one vacuum port, I assume it goes to the inside dizzy advance. Live in Florida so I'm not worried about altitude.

Several vacuum tubes that are included in Jim C's diagram cannot be hooked us with only one port... so should I just remove all of the smog stuff and cap what I can't remove?

Do you know if I need to leave one of the charcoal canister lines to the carb base breather?

Lastly, should there be a gasket between carb and manifold. Mine was clean so I didn't put one on, should I put on some sealant instead?

C
 
Are there any mods or work-arounds to get these dizzy's to run with a 1972 F engine? Or is it just plug and play?

Also, I assume the dizzy's accept OEM caps, rotors, points, condensers from the dealer... or am I assuming unwisely?
 
Hi Marshall,

I am looking for a new Carb. I have a Dec-74 FJ40 with a newly transplanted F2 from '85 FJ60. The F2 only has In/Ex Manifold and Distributor, everything else came from ’74. No emissions or computer. It is a linkage vs Cable set up. Here are some pictures. Please let me know if you need to see something esle.

Do you have a Carb that fits and how much?

Also from your used parts post I am looking for:
Apron Emblems (pair) '74 FJ40
Pass Rear reflector
Choke cable and knob
Air cleaner assembly from '74 FJ40

What if any do you have and how much?

Thanks,
Scott in AZ
carb side.jpg
carb linkage.jpg
Dist.jpg
 
Also I'm offering a service for those who want the fuel return added to the carb. It's not needed but if you want it to look as stock as possible I will drill and tap the return in the carb for an additional $25.

Marshall,
A year later and I'm finally ready to order. I recently bought a '78 with your carb and I love it. I'm ready for one for my '82 40. Regarding the fuel return, do you drill, tap and insert a return line pipe? Otherwise, what do you install in the fuel return opening? Lastly, besides stock look, why is/isn't the fuel return necessary? I know they are back ordered until July or so.

Thanks, Todd
 

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