Very well could be the O2's. Both my trucks had the first O2 sensor go out almost exactly at 150k.
For checking the code, do the jumper trick. Some searching should net you the procedure.
New EMSpowered exhaust thread
- Thread starter zx9r
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Very well could be the O2's. Both my trucks had the first O2 sensor go out almost exactly at 150k.
For checking the code, do the jumper trick. Some searching should net you the procedure.
Hi Tim,Hey Guys, just thought I would jump in on this to warn any others looking at purchsing this kit. Don't do It, I waited 4 months to receive the exhaust kit without the gaskets, bolts and clamps, and with the incorrect post cat O2 sensor location. Baktash has refused to send the gaskets or refund the money that I have spent in completing the install.
As for the kit its self, it has a few kinks to be worked out as you can see from the threads concerning this kit. The issues I have had are Fit, O2 location, Vibration due to the kit bolts in without issolation rubber, overly loud and finally the high pitch whistle.
My suggestion, find a local muffler shop and spend the extra money!!!
I never refused to issue you a refund for the hardware you purchased. I replied to you back on 4/14/2010 letting you know that our cost on the hardware is around $40 and that I'd issue you a refund of $50. And asked if you had paid more than that locally for the hardware and if so we'd reimburse you what you had paid. I never received a reply back from you.
The O2 sensor location post-cat was revised, and all of the folks which may have been effected by the incorrectly positioned O2 sensor port were emailed to see if theirs needed to be replaced. We have sent out several of the replacement pipes. I never received a reply back from you regarding your exhaust and the post-cat O2 sensor location. I'll call you here in a minute, from your post here I can only assume that you have not received any of these emails.
For pre-OBDII cars you don't need a code reader. It's pretty easy to check the codes, see here: Off-Road.Com - Toyota Tech - Diagnostic Trouble Codes
- Thread starter
- #44
Great info Baktash. Thanks! I'll be trying this out later this afternoon.
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- #46
Getting a code 26 which unfortunately points to a lot of things related to rich mixture, including the O2 sensors...
May be time for a new thread...but before leaving this one, is there a chance that a leak upstream (at the manifold) could be a possible cause? Seems it could possibly throw off the O2 readings. Guess that will be the first thing I'll check.
May be time for a new thread...but before leaving this one, is there a chance that a leak upstream (at the manifold) could be a possible cause? Seems it could possibly throw off the O2 readings. Guess that will be the first thing I'll check.
Leak upstream (in the exhaust) I would think would cause a lean mixture, rather than rich.
Rich mixture certainly is not a problem of exhaust leak. I've had my fair share of them too.
Did you pull your EFI fuse for a spell after installing? I forgot if your truck has a MAF, but the first thing you could try is cleaning your MAF with electronics cleaner, reset your ECU (disconnect your battery for 5-10 minutes) then see what happens in a few weeks.
Did you pull your EFI fuse for a spell after installing? I forgot if your truck has a MAF, but the first thing you could try is cleaning your MAF with electronics cleaner, reset your ECU (disconnect your battery for 5-10 minutes) then see what happens in a few weeks.
- Thread starter
- #49
Running lean would certainly be more logical but didn't rule out that if things are out of whack then who knows what overcorrection the electronics might be doing. Just looking at the things I recently changed as a first step before tearing into other areas...
I did disconnect the battery again last night. Started up and ran for a few miles and filled with higher octane fuel. No light and ran much more smoothly but too early to say it's resolved. This is the 4th time I've reset things via battery disconnect and keeps returning to poor state after 15-20 miles. Have fingers crossed that it was just a coincidence that I was almost empty with poor fuel in tank or just because the truck wasn't run for a few weeks is the cause... Guess I'll know for sure later today.
I did disconnect the battery again last night. Started up and ran for a few miles and filled with higher octane fuel. No light and ran much more smoothly but too early to say it's resolved. This is the 4th time I've reset things via battery disconnect and keeps returning to poor state after 15-20 miles. Have fingers crossed that it was just a coincidence that I was almost empty with poor fuel in tank or just because the truck wasn't run for a few weeks is the cause... Guess I'll know for sure later today.
If the truck runs decent after an ECU reset, but then poorly after the ECU relearns the parameters, that means that there is something that is giving the ECU poor data.
Basically after resetting the ECU, it's running on purely mapped values, ignoring most of the input that it receives. After a few trips, it starts to use the data from the O2 sensors, MAF, eft.
Bad O2 sensors would be high on my suspect list, but it could be a vacuum leak (and the ECU is dumping fuel to compensate), bad MAF, etc.
Basically after resetting the ECU, it's running on purely mapped values, ignoring most of the input that it receives. After a few trips, it starts to use the data from the O2 sensors, MAF, eft.
Bad O2 sensors would be high on my suspect list, but it could be a vacuum leak (and the ECU is dumping fuel to compensate), bad MAF, etc.
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- #51
THanks EBag. Makes sense. Is there an easy way to validate O2 sensors? I've read a few write ups but doesn't look very straight forward. I have a DVM if there are some basic connections that can be validated.
If I unplugged them and the truck ran better with them unplugged would that confirm they are the issue? (I'm assuming if they are unplugged the ECU will rely on default values for the O2 readings).
If I unplugged them and the truck ran better with them unplugged would that confirm they are the issue? (I'm assuming if they are unplugged the ECU will rely on default values for the O2 readings).
The FSM shows how to test them. You check for resistance. Not sure if ODB-I is the same as ODB-II.
I doubt it.
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- #53
hicruise55
IH8MUD VOYEUR
zx9r- Did you use some silicone or copper seal upstream of the cats? Just a thought but its bad for O2 sensors, maybe test em even though they are newer?
- Thread starter
- #55
I did use copper/silicone gasket seal around the O2 sensors gaskets. Not a lot and careful not to get any on the sensors themselves. I also used it at the manifold connection. Never heard of it being a bad thing. Is it temporary while it is still curing over time and maybe giving off vapors?
Can anyone tell me where this exhaust attaches to the LC? I have a 97 header back system. I just got a system in, but no instructions with the hardware. I am assuming this will attach at 3 places: the manifold, bracket at the cat, and on to the frame at the tip. The brackets connected to the frame are salvageable, but the brackets connecting to the brackets going to the frame are not. I have two photos showing how severe the bracket connecting the cats and muffler look. Keep in mind these have been patch worked with spot wields until I get my beautiful EMS system on. Any help is appreciated.
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little_joe
SILVER Star
You will have the following connections:
- stock exhaust manifold to EMS downpipe;
- EMS downpipe to frame crossover pipe (the 2 flanges), and this includes a mounting bracket as seen below:
- Crossover to rear section, and this includes one mount in the rear just above the rear axle iirc.
Your mounts look salvageable.
- stock exhaust manifold to EMS downpipe;
- EMS downpipe to frame crossover pipe (the 2 flanges), and this includes a mounting bracket as seen below:
- Crossover to rear section, and this includes one mount in the rear just above the rear axle iirc.
Your mounts look salvageable.
Thanks... Little_joe
I just spoke with Baktash. The hanger brackets should be trashed. Brackets on the frame should not be touched. Header back system ships with all hardware except these existing items need to be reused (header studs and locking nuts plus the bolts/nuts from O2 sensors). Good thing I have this guy's cell#. He always calls back promptly, but he should think about a install guide soon.
I just spoke with Baktash. The hanger brackets should be trashed. Brackets on the frame should not be touched. Header back system ships with all hardware except these existing items need to be reused (header studs and locking nuts plus the bolts/nuts from O2 sensors). Good thing I have this guy's cell#. He always calls back promptly, but he should think about a install guide soon.
I've got a system waiting for install as well, do you guys think the o2 sensor bolts should be stainless as well? I live in the rust belt and cant stand the rust, but stainless is not as strong and has a tendency to bind up in my experience. thanks
