Builds New Alaskan FJ40 intro thread (4 Viewers)

[Aussie Alaskan]

Finally figured out my hot starting problem. Such a relief to be able to turn it off and start it back up when getting gas now.

Here is the detailed problem, symptoms and solution in this thread:

1977 FJ40 will not start when warm

Tried running it with the fuel cap off? No I have not. But immediately after shutting it off I've opened the gas cap and there has been no noticeable suction or pressure.

forum.ih8mud.com

Now, back to the restoration.

I'm planning to paint the rig this summer and am looking at taking the top off to begin work on the gutter and the sides and any more rust that I find.

I did a look around and it seems like I'm missing all of my screws that hold the hardtop sides to the tub in the back. Aren't there supposed to be screws along here? I've got nothing but empty holes.

 

[airon23]

Finally figured out my hot starting problem. Such a relief to be able to turn it off and start it back up when getting gas now.

Here is the detailed problem, symptoms and solution in this thread:

1977 FJ40 will not start when warm

Tried running it with the fuel cap off? No I have not. But immediately after shutting it off I've opened the gas cap and there has been no noticeable suction or pressure.

forum.ih8mud.com

Now, back to the restoration.

I'm planning to paint the rig this summer and am looking at taking the top off to begin work on the gutter and the sides and any more rust that I find.

I did a look around and it seems like I'm missing all of my screws that hold the hardtop sides to the tub in the back. Aren't there supposed to be screws along here? I've got nothing but empty holes.

View attachment 3332003

View attachment 3332004

Yeah you're missing the bolts. There's some places that sell replacement bolts for the hard top at a reasonable price. Shouldn't be too big of a problem.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Yeah you're missing the bolts. There's some places that sell replacement bolts for the hard top at a reasonable price. Shouldn't be too big of a problem.

I figured as much. I've done 70 mph plus in this thing without those bolts. Not the safest thing I've ever done... I guess the ambulance doors keep the backside of the hardtop locked down, but still.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Took the 40 up to Murphy Dome North-West of Fairbanks AK the other day. Pretty neat spot and on the way back home my brakes started to seize up. Made it home but 2 of the 4 wheels brakes were hot to the touch. My brake lights were constantly on and the brake pedal wouldn't come all the way back to it's normal position. I took the fuse out to save the battery over night and the next day began the process of pulling the brake cylinders off.
Pulled them off and cleaned them up. One wheel definitely was locked up and the cylinder was pretty grimy on the inside. After cleaning all 4 rear cylinders I ordered some rebuild kits for them.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

While I had the vehicle down waiting on brake rebuild kits I decided I may as well pull the old leaf springs off in preparation for a new 2.5" pro comp set that are going to arrive this weekend. May as well pull the axle out and paint it too. Fun times. The whole axle removal process was easier than expected, and took around 2 hours. Hopefully the new springs go in just as easily.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

A few more pics of the axle and spring removal process.

Really looking forward to feeling the difference between the OEM 50ish year old springs and shocks, and the new pro comp springs and Bilstein shocks.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

After hours of scrubbing and wire brushing by hand I painted the rear axle with POR-15 rust inhibitor and topped it with the POR-15 high gloss top coat. Turned out nice. Then I went and picked up a set of 2.5" lift procomp leap springs that a buddy hauled up from the States and halfway installed the rear set. Just waiting to finished up the axle and I can put it back on the rig and finalize the new leaf spring install.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Had a piece of brand new gym floor mat that I have been saving for the rear of my FJ40. I cut out a section and put it into the rear and it looks ok. Hoping it will keep a bit of the road noise down and it's easily removable so that if it ever gets wet underneath, I can pull it out to dry. The matting is roughly 1" thick rubber. I also plan to cut this stuff for the front floor as well, but I'll probably need to remove the driver's seat to measure it properly and get it to fit like I want.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

I replaced the gaskets on my differential with new ones that came in the mail today. This started as a quick job, but quickly morphed into an hours long project. Finally got it done tho. Put a small bead of black RTV on each side of each gasket to hopefully seal better plus be easier to remove for the next guy.

At first I thought this would be a simple matter of removing both "covers" and throwing on the new gaskets. I didn't realize that I would have to pull the axles themselves. That's why it turned into a larger project than what I had expected. This was the first time I had ever opened up a differential or dealt with axles or C clips or anything like that. New experience and it all went back together

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Got the freshly sealed and painted axle mostly installed last night. Waiting on drying paint to install the U bolts, but should be able to knock that out tonight and put the hubs and wheels back on.

I also installed the new Bilstein shocks and rebuilt brake cylinders with all new hardware. I'll need to figure out how to make brake lines next since the ones I took off in the rear were in pretty bad shape.

When I removed the axle I had what Im guessing is a shim on the passenger side between the axle and the spring. Anybody know why I would have a shim on only one side?

 

[pb4ugo]

Is the shim about 3/8" thick with no taper? If it is, it is probably a Toyota installed leveling block to cure for cruiser lean.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Is the shim about 3/8" thick with no taper? If it is, it is probably a Toyota installed leveling block to cure for cruiser lean.

Yes sir. Sounds about right. Assuming i will need to reinstall with the new springs?

 

[pb4ugo]

Id assemble it without it and see if it leans 1st. It's design to lower the high side.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Fully installed rear axle. Still needs brake lines before driving.

Definitely can see the lift in the rear and am looking forward to getting the new springs installed up front too.

The new springs also seemed to erase the fairly heavy lean to the right on my FJ40.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Began to disassemble the front axle.
Had to grind down a tool to work for forcing the TREs out. It worked great although Im guessing a purpose built tool would have worked far better. I basically cranked down as much as comfortable on the crank and then pounded on the TRE with a hammer till it popped loose.

I also used a small spade bit to pop the cone washers out. Seemed to work just fine, and they came out easily after being pried apart somewhat.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

The front driver's side shock had seen better days and seemed like it was barely hanging on.

My steering assembly is pretty well bent and so I'll have to straighten that out prior to new paint. Joy... Also the steering stabilizer is in need of replacement. Anybody have any suggestions for a good replacement?

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Got the front axle all the way off and after about 6 hours of cleaning, degreasing, wire brushing and cleaning again. It's mostly ready for paint. Still have to clean the rotors and the calipers and then install the new wheel bearings. I've got a knuckle rebuild kit on its way up from fjparts.com, and so I'll be throwing it all back together sometime next week more than likely.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Cleaned, cleaned and cleaned some more before painting the axle housing and diff cover. Then I reinstalled the axle housing with the new 2.5" procomp leaf springs. Initially installed the leaf springs backwards so after re-doing the springs the right way it all came together nicely.

I also took the chance to pop out the front shackles and polish the pins and then re-installed after liberally greasing them. Before I had to hammer them to get them to move back and forth with the leaf springs off, but now they move smoothly and freely by hand.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Received the knuckle rebuild kits from fjparts.com and jumped right into it yesterday evening. New seals, bearings, races, and moly grease. Should be good to go for another 100k + miles.

My preload on the knuckle bearings ended up being 16 lbs. A bit higher than spec, but I'm running slightly larger tires than OEM and will likely run even larger tires at some point.

Does anybody have any experience with preload and tire size?

My wheel bearing preload is set to the higher side of spec.

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Looking for a pair of 1977 compatible steering arm/knuckle stud nuts.

My 40 is missing two and they are M11 1.25 pitch and not available anywhere it seems. If anybody had an extra set rolling around and would be open to helping out I'd appreciate it.

The picture shows the studs that need nuts. I'm missing two for the opposite side of my 40.