Green Bean
SILVER Star
Did you call Valley Hybrids?
Builds New Alaskan FJ40 intro thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Aussie Alaskan
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #182
I'm not aware of who/what that is, but I can try to look them up.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Shop 209-475-8808
Got 2 extra sets of axles in kenai come get em! Or I can pull the nuts when I get on my time off in July
- Thread starter
- #185
Hey that sounds awesome! Such an oddball size nut/stud combo! I gave Valley Hybrids a call and if they are reasonable I'll get them to ship me a couple nuts, otherwise I'll pm you in July
Thanks for the help again MUD!
Vally hybrids is pretty good/fair peepsHey that sounds awesome! Such an oddball size nut/stud combo! I gave Valley Hybrids a call and if they are reasonable I'll get them to ship me a couple nuts, otherwise I'll pm you in July
Thanks for the help again MUD!
- Thread starter
- #187
Cleaned and polished the Warn locking hubs.
- Thread starter
- #188
Cleaned, sanded and straightened the steering tie rod, relay rod and drag link. Removed and replaced all TREs with new ones from fjparts.com.
- Thread starter
- #189
Another shot of the cleaned up hub.
The painted, sealed and rebuilt front axle all shiny and new looking.
The rebuilt knuckles and associated steering linkages.
And my attempt (successful) at alignment. At first I was sceptical of the alignment, but after driving it at 65 mph and having it run true even with my hands off the wheel it's pretty well aligned. No more wandering over the road and the steering is much tighter.
The painted, sealed and rebuilt front axle all shiny and new looking.
The rebuilt knuckles and associated steering linkages.
And my attempt (successful) at alignment. At first I was sceptical of the alignment, but after driving it at 65 mph and having it run true even with my hands off the wheel it's pretty well aligned. No more wandering over the road and the steering is much tighter.
- Thread starter
- #190
Took to the lake last night. I like the stance with the 2.5" lift springs.
It has a decent leak from the front of the engine currently either from the crank seal, or the timing cover gasket. It leaked about 1 quart in the past 300 miles of driving. I cannot recall if I replaced the crank seal or not, but I know that I did not center it to the crank upon reassembly which may be the cause of my leak.
It has a decent leak from the front of the engine currently either from the crank seal, or the timing cover gasket. It leaked about 1 quart in the past 300 miles of driving. I cannot recall if I replaced the crank seal or not, but I know that I did not center it to the crank upon reassembly which may be the cause of my leak.
- Thread starter
- #191
Pulled the radiator, fan, pulley and timing cover off to try to fix the leak. Reinstalled the basically new cork timing cover gasket with a line of high temp RTV. When installing the timing cover and the pulley I made sure that they were centered before I bolted the cover down. Also put the RTV on the two lower bolts for the timing cover.
After putting it all back together I drove it for about 30 miles with no visible leakage.
Did this right before I was planning to take a 300 mile camping trip with friends over the weekend.
After putting it all back together I drove it for about 30 miles with no visible leakage.
Did this right before I was planning to take a 300 mile camping trip with friends over the weekend.
- Thread starter
- #192
150 miles later at the camping spot I popped the hood and checked the oil level and there was no oil on the dip stick...! Because I was so confident in my repair I hadn't brought any extra oil with me and had to get a friend to give me 5 full quarts to get it back up to halfway on the dip stick. The 40 had developed a huge leak up front from either the timing plate gasket or the timing cover gasket.
At least the scenery was worth the drive
On the drive home it was leaking even worse at about 1 quart per 10 miles! I borrowed all the oil my friends had just to limp it back to the nearest town. I put in 5W30, 10w30 and 0w30 all together from various other bottles/vehicles.
Got it to the nearest town and bought 9 quarts of 10w30 and hoped it would be enough to limp it back to Fairbanks AK since it was a 90 mile drive. But the leak worsened and ultimately I couldn't keep enough oil in the engine and had to be towed 40 miles home.
This is why you travel with friends I guess
At least the scenery was worth the drive
On the drive home it was leaking even worse at about 1 quart per 10 miles! I borrowed all the oil my friends had just to limp it back to the nearest town. I put in 5W30, 10w30 and 0w30 all together from various other bottles/vehicles.
Got it to the nearest town and bought 9 quarts of 10w30 and hoped it would be enough to limp it back to Fairbanks AK since it was a 90 mile drive. But the leak worsened and ultimately I couldn't keep enough oil in the engine and had to be towed 40 miles home.
This is why you travel with friends I guess
- Thread starter
- #193
So after getting towed home I re-pulled the front of the rig apart. The timing cover gasket was shredded. And was probably the main culprit since I'd probably overtightened the lower bolts. But I also decided to go ahead and replace the timing plate gasket as well since I was already back inside the engine AGAIN!
The three flat head machine screws would not budge and I ended up drilling them out just to get the plate off.
I pulled the camshaft gear off instead of pulling the camshaft out and am planning on heating the gear in the oven and reinstalling per a few threads here on MUD. Hoping it'll be easier/less invasive than pulling the camshaft, valve train, lifters, dissy...
The three flat head machine screws would not budge and I ended up drilling them out just to get the plate off.
I pulled the camshaft gear off instead of pulling the camshaft out and am planning on heating the gear in the oven and reinstalling per a few threads here on MUD. Hoping it'll be easier/less invasive than pulling the camshaft, valve train, lifters, dissy...
- Thread starter
- #194
Waiting on new flat head screws from SOR to come in the mail and I can finish up reinstalling the timing plate gasket.
And while the rig is down I went ahead and wired up my tach. Not a big fan of how far it sits out from under the dash and will likely try to adjust this some. Also installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
Both of these gauges use the left bolt of the steering column clamp, and can be removed easily and quickly if needed.
And while the rig is down I went ahead and wired up my tach. Not a big fan of how far it sits out from under the dash and will likely try to adjust this some. Also installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
Both of these gauges use the left bolt of the steering column clamp, and can be removed easily and quickly if needed.
- Thread starter
- #195
Got the flat topped front end plate bolts in and before they were even out of the mailbox for 30 mins they were being installed in the engine.
Put the camshaft thrust plate back on and after heating the cam gear for 25 mins at 295F I failed 3 times to put it back onto the camshaft. Ended up having to pull the air filter housing, valve cover, valve train, distributor, side cover, lifters, rods, fuel pump and the camshaft out. Quite the frustrating setback, but I got it all done and then back together in probably 5 hours and got to bed by midnight. Such I'd life I guess. Took it for a few drives the past couple of days and so far 0 leakage! So in the end, it was worth it.
Put the camshaft thrust plate back on and after heating the cam gear for 25 mins at 295F I failed 3 times to put it back onto the camshaft. Ended up having to pull the air filter housing, valve cover, valve train, distributor, side cover, lifters, rods, fuel pump and the camshaft out. Quite the frustrating setback, but I got it all done and then back together in probably 5 hours and got to bed by midnight. Such I'd life I guess. Took it for a few drives the past couple of days and so far 0 leakage! So in the end, it was worth it.
- Thread starter
- #196
Can anybody identify this plug? It's behind the guage cluster and I'm not sure what it's supposed to go to. I'm guessing it goes to something I don't have anymore that was previously removed by the PO.
If some knows what I'm missing please let me know and even better, if you've got an extra one floating around let me know please.
If some knows what I'm missing please let me know and even better, if you've got an extra one floating around let me know please.
Looking at a wiring diagram for a '77 it looks like it goes to the seat belt warning relay. Hard to see the exact color of all the wires.
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- Thread starter
- #198
Ok. Is there a light or something on my dash that would light up if the seat belt warning relay isn't tripped? I don't see anything that it plugs into. I do have the connection for the seat belt sensor coming up through my floorboard.
- Thread starter
- #200
I'm looking at my wiring diagram a bit closer now and I think you are right. My diagram is Haynes, and it's a bit different than the one you referenced, but I think yours is actually color correct.
Thanks!
Now, does anybody have a spare seat belt warning light they would be interested in parting with? Fingers crossed.
