Need to engage clutch 2 times to shift. (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 15, 2022
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Location
NY
I recently got my FJ40 back on the road after many years sitting. First 100 miles (mostly local, stop and go) ran very well shifted very smoothly. The last 20 miles, intermittently not always, I have had to engage the clutch a second time when changing gears (not specific to any gear, happens 1 through 4, up and down shifting). Master is full no leaks. Thanks for any incite.
Jim
 
Throwout bearing? (dredged from my old GM days when my firebird used to do this). Don't even know if 40s have a throwout bearing
 
Throwout bearing? (dredged from my old GM days when my firebird used to do this). Don't even know if 40s have a throwout bearing

FJ40's indeed have a throwout bearing.

If you don't double clutch, is the transmission grinding when you try to shift?

To check the clutch master, look for leaking fluid on the firewall on both sides.
If that's clean, it could be your synchros are going out. Drain the oil out of the transmission and check for bronze glitter.
 
if it were mine I’d change the master and slave along with their soft lines.
 
Like others said, needing to double clutch suddenly, i.e not by design, is an indication of your clutch master cylinder failing internally. Fluid from the pressure side is getting passed the seal. Did you flush the old fluid out from when it was sitting?

Check for leaks obviously. It could also be the slave failing but not likely. Those usually just leak into the boot and onto the ground.
 
Thanks for the input
I did not change the fluid, does look clean and is right at full line. However, it had been being restored for the last 10 years by PO so could be old.
First thing I will do is change it and see if that helps.
Thanks for the input.
 
FJ40's indeed have a throwout bearing.

If you don't double clutch, is the transmission grinding when you try to shift?

To check the clutch master, look for leaking fluid on the firewall on both sides.
If that's clean, it could be your synchros are going out. Drain the oil out of the transmission and check for bronze glitter.
Only grinds occasionally, when it does I double clutch and it shifts into gear smoothly
 
Thanks for the input
I did not change the fluid, does look clean and is right at full line. However, it had been being restored for the last 10 years by PO so could be old.
First thing I will do is change it and see if that helps.
Thanks for the input.

It def has DOT-3 which pulls in moisture over time. I would for sure fully flush the system and see if there's some improvement. Do you have any play in the pedal at the top?
 
To adjust the clutch you should follow the FSM procedures. It starts with the pedal height measurement and pedal freeplay. Adjusting the slave to fork is last.
 
To adjust the clutch you should follow the FSM procedures. It starts with the pedal height measurement and pedal freeplay. Adjusting the slave to fork is last.
can you direct me to FSM procedure ? thank you Jim
 
If you're sitting stopped, clutch depressed, in gear, and engine running.

Does it start to creep?
 
I would be very hesitant to make adjustments until I put in new master, slave and their soft lines. Having to pump clutch sounds like air in the system. Those soft lines can leak air without a visible leak. I spent several evenings trying to bleed mine after changing out master and slave. It was putting in new soft line that finally fixed it and there was no visible leak.
 
can you direct me to FSM procedure ? thank you Jim

Screen Shot 2023-02-04 at 10.32.29 AM.png
 
Years ago a friend told me don't always expect the worst. Turns out that the lock nut was not locked down. I guess with vibrations driving, and shifting the adjustment got out of range. I reset the adjustments and truck is back to shifting like butter. Thanks for pointing me to the clutch adjustment, as I immediately assumed a more involved fix.
 

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