Hey everybody,
Been awhile since I've posted up. Haven't dropped off the face of the earth, just been busy with school, work, and what not. Anyways after having the 40 down for the past several months to fix several nagging issues with her (clutch, brakes, carb, rust, paint, etc) I finally got everything sorted out (or so I thought) and got the old girl up and driving again this past Sunday! Well here comes my problems. The first has to do with the brakes. My original problem when I parked the truck was that one of the wheel cylinders on the passenger side rear was leaking fluid. So I took it and all the rest of the cylinders on both sides of the rear and had Dave Rushing (roadstr6-Dave feel free to chime in here) rebuild them all. In the meantime I went ahead and ordered all new shoes and springs from Beno to replace the old nasty worn out ones. After I got the cylinders back from Dave and all the parts in, I swapped everything out, and replaced everything. Then I adjusted the new shoes on either side and bled both sides (I have one man speed bleeder screws on that I replaced the old ones with when I first got the truck). Well on the passenger side rear, after everything was done I noticed fluid leaking from the bleeder screw. It was tightened all the way and I double checked everything. I then went and bought new bleeder screws and replaced them just to be sure. Still got leaks. The threads aren't cross threaded or stripped because the bleeder will thread in fine. So on Sunday after I drove it, I put vice grips on the soft line in order to not get air in the system and then I removed the bleeder screw and swabbed a q-tip down in the hole of the cylinder where it threads into. Pulled out some little gold flakes of metal which I'm sure were preventing the bleeder from sitting correctly. Put bleeder back in after that and still got leaks of fluid from it. My theory is that the gold flakes of metal were from the part that is inside the cylinder that the bleeder presses into/sits against (the bleeder was in perfect shape when I took it out). Does this sound probable or am I too farfetched? Is my best bet to just go ahead and buy a new cylinder and replace it in order to get the bleeder to seat in all the way?
My second problem is some carb troubleshooting. Dave Rushing rebuilt my carb for me as well (big thanks to Dave and again feel free to chime in here). Well Sunday when I was driving it she drove great, but I had to have the choke pulled out in order for the truck to fire and to stay on. As soon as I pushed choke in truck would shutoff. Obviously carb needs some adjusting now that I've got her up and running, and unfortunately the carb is one thing that I'm not versed in and as of the moment it is over my head. I also lack a vaccum gauge to mess with it myself (and I don't want to mess it up). I asked Dave R. what he thought and he says he thinks it is starving for fuel at idle and could be one of three things: 1)a vaccum leak, 2) idle circuit is clogged, 3) linkage and adjustment is not right. I have no clue when it comes to this. What do y'all think? I don't believe that it could be the carb is gunked up seeing as it was rebuilt and right before I parked the truck I replaced the fuel filter and while I had the truck down, I put a large chain down in the tank and shook it around with acetone and mineral spirits several times to clean out the rust and gunk that was or could've been in it. Obviously the truck should run without choke being pulled. I'm just not sure what to do on this. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
-Brysen
Been awhile since I've posted up. Haven't dropped off the face of the earth, just been busy with school, work, and what not. Anyways after having the 40 down for the past several months to fix several nagging issues with her (clutch, brakes, carb, rust, paint, etc) I finally got everything sorted out (or so I thought) and got the old girl up and driving again this past Sunday! Well here comes my problems. The first has to do with the brakes. My original problem when I parked the truck was that one of the wheel cylinders on the passenger side rear was leaking fluid. So I took it and all the rest of the cylinders on both sides of the rear and had Dave Rushing (roadstr6-Dave feel free to chime in here) rebuild them all. In the meantime I went ahead and ordered all new shoes and springs from Beno to replace the old nasty worn out ones. After I got the cylinders back from Dave and all the parts in, I swapped everything out, and replaced everything. Then I adjusted the new shoes on either side and bled both sides (I have one man speed bleeder screws on that I replaced the old ones with when I first got the truck). Well on the passenger side rear, after everything was done I noticed fluid leaking from the bleeder screw. It was tightened all the way and I double checked everything. I then went and bought new bleeder screws and replaced them just to be sure. Still got leaks. The threads aren't cross threaded or stripped because the bleeder will thread in fine. So on Sunday after I drove it, I put vice grips on the soft line in order to not get air in the system and then I removed the bleeder screw and swabbed a q-tip down in the hole of the cylinder where it threads into. Pulled out some little gold flakes of metal which I'm sure were preventing the bleeder from sitting correctly. Put bleeder back in after that and still got leaks of fluid from it. My theory is that the gold flakes of metal were from the part that is inside the cylinder that the bleeder presses into/sits against (the bleeder was in perfect shape when I took it out). Does this sound probable or am I too farfetched? Is my best bet to just go ahead and buy a new cylinder and replace it in order to get the bleeder to seat in all the way?
My second problem is some carb troubleshooting. Dave Rushing rebuilt my carb for me as well (big thanks to Dave and again feel free to chime in here). Well Sunday when I was driving it she drove great, but I had to have the choke pulled out in order for the truck to fire and to stay on. As soon as I pushed choke in truck would shutoff. Obviously carb needs some adjusting now that I've got her up and running, and unfortunately the carb is one thing that I'm not versed in and as of the moment it is over my head. I also lack a vaccum gauge to mess with it myself (and I don't want to mess it up). I asked Dave R. what he thought and he says he thinks it is starving for fuel at idle and could be one of three things: 1)a vaccum leak, 2) idle circuit is clogged, 3) linkage and adjustment is not right. I have no clue when it comes to this. What do y'all think? I don't believe that it could be the carb is gunked up seeing as it was rebuilt and right before I parked the truck I replaced the fuel filter and while I had the truck down, I put a large chain down in the tank and shook it around with acetone and mineral spirits several times to clean out the rust and gunk that was or could've been in it. Obviously the truck should run without choke being pulled. I'm just not sure what to do on this. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
-Brysen
