Need help getting my 1992 80 Series “yard find” to start!! (3 Viewers)

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Aug 23, 2025
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Location
Michigan
I recently picked up a 1992 LandCruiser 80 series (3FE) for $1,400. It has been sitting around outdoors for at least a decade. Guy I got it from got it from a buddy who’s late father owned it so nobody knows anything about it. Guy I got it from said it ran on starting fluid up until after this winter. I replaced the fuel pump and jumped the B+ -Fp and i can here fuel both at the tank and at the block but haven’t checked my injectors. It cranks with a jumper to the starter and has a bad starter solenoid.. bypassing that for now until I get it idling. Due to the crank/ no start I replaced spark plugs to no avail. I ordered a new distributor cap and rotor so we’ll see if that changes anything.. also replaced fuseable link. EFI relay seems okay, when key is in “on” I get CEL, voltage, headlights, horn, doors, ect… key switch doesn’t work so i was using a jumper from the solenoid to the battery while in run position to get it to crank. The wire that comes out of the bottom of the distributor and goes to the starter solenoid has also been spliced off and is hanging out of the hood. Again, I’m wanting to get it idling before replacing my solenoid and fixing the ignition. Big question.. Why am I not getting spark? Won’t run on starting fluid, don’t want to kill my starter.
I am new to working on cars and have never owned a Toyota before so I’ll take any help…
164k miles.
Iv posted a few videos about it on my TikTok acc @dewesy
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Timing, compression, fuel, air.

Take out a spark plug, plug it into the wire, and hold the tip against a metal surface while cranking. If it sparks, you've got spark. If not, cap and rotor are good starting places, next would be ignitor

Timing ought to be fine if it was running before with no physical changes.

Compression is low suspect for the same reason seeing that it hasn't been driven. You'd also likely hear a difference.

Fuel is a likely suspect but is easily ruled out with starting fluid.

Let us know if you confirm spark
 
Timing, compression, fuel, air.

Take out a spark plug, plug it into the wire, and hold the tip against a metal surface while cranking. If it sparks, you've got spark. If not, cap and rotor are good starting places, next would be ignitor

Timing ought to be fine if it was running before with no physical changes.

Compression is low suspect for the same reason seeing that it hasn't been driven. You'd also likely hear a difference.

Fuel is a likely suspect but is easily ruled out with starting fluid.

Let us know if you confirm spark
Pulled plug #2 and no spark. I ordered the cap and rotor and I’ll try to track down some new wires as well. Will update when I install
 
Have you down loaded the FREE manuals yet?
Something tells me you're going to need them.
Keep us posted, if nothing else we can offer a shoulder to cry on and encouragement.
:beer:
 
pull the cap off and check if the cap and rotor inside is in good visual shape, i bet it is rusted inside if the piece is aftermarket and missing a vent port at the top
 
Pulled plug #2 and no spark. I ordered the cap and rotor and I’ll try to track down some new wires as well. Will update when I install
Update: installed cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and coil. Jumped b+ & fp and I can hear fuel up at the engine. It tried to crank and was “puttering” several times before going back to a flat crank. It really wants to start but it seems I’m missing something. Iv heard ideas about a fuel filter and timing. Let me know!
 
Have you tried starter fluid, just a little, to see if it will fire up?
 
The wire that comes out of the bottom of the distributor and goes to the starter solenoid has also been spliced off and is hanging out of the hood.
Nothing from the distributor runs to the starter. Download the Toyota FSM and EWD from the resources section.
Why am I not getting spark?
If the distributor wiring has been modified/molested then that's likely your issue.
Spark is developed from the pick up coils inside the distributor which feed pulses to the ECU. The ECU then feeds pulses to the igniter which feeds the ignition coil.
I would verify that you're getting +12 to both the igniter (pin 3) and ignition coil (pin 1) since that +12 runs through the ignition switch.
The igniter/coil combination lives in a bracket that provides ground. If that bracket is not securely fastened to the body, then you won't get spark.

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