Need help figuring out a water leak issue (1 Viewer)

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You need to replace the rusted out bolt with a new bolt or it will likely leak again.

Also, check you tail gate with a straight edge. If it's bowed down from too much weight on it, the upper hatch won't seal tight and let water in.
You can put a solid bar on top of it and use c-clamps to straighten it back up if it's bent.

There is a thread in the 80 series section about bowed tailgates for reference.
My bolts were new and flawless. Looks like someone just did a half hearted job at resolving it. I'm pretty sure it had an aftermarket rack/basket that was removed before the vehicle was sold. Found alot of deteriorated rubber washers, but new bolts/hardware.
 
Pictures and list mod, is helpful.

If OEM roof rack removed or replaced. We very often get leaks, at mounting bolts.
Third brake light, is common leak.
Also note any rust holes.
Open holes around perimeter of hatch, seen when open. We seen where some of the rubber plugs, like that for wires or washer hose, missing.
Windshield replace often results in leaks, info front foot wells.
Door seals, aren't much of issue. Provided good condition, keep clean and doors aligned.
I was able to get in contact with the previous, previous owner (the owner before me knew very little about the vehicle)
It had an aftermarket rack that was removed before he sold it.
None of the holes are open. All have plugs that look like they are oem.
The windshield was replaced, they used screws, the PPO then called them back out to do the job correctly with rivets.
I've noticed a large area of the driverside carpet is wet (not just by the door like it is with the passenger and rear) which is what's leading me to believe the windshield is leaking.
Do the vertical weather strips that cover the grommets just pull out, or is there a trick to them?
 
My bolts were new and flawless. Looks like someone just did a half hearted job at resolving it. I'm pretty sure it had an aftermarket rack/basket that was removed before the vehicle was sold. Found alot of deteriorated rubber washers, but new bolts/hardware.
Bolts may look good, but are they sealed. I've used 3M seam sealer, in/on threads/bolts

Pour/run water in rain channel around bolts/mounts. Do with vehicle front high, so water runs back one side at a time. Isolate so water going around specific areas.. Do windshield next, than rear hatch or in any order that works for you.

I use a 6mm guidable borescope, to look up under headliner. Helps isolate.

Additional: Pressurize cabin with blower, HVAC fan set to full speed, set outside air. Soap or glass cleaner bubbles, can be revealing.

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My bolts were new and flawless. Looks like someone just did a half hearted job at resolving it. I'm pretty sure it had an aftermarket rack/basket that was removed before the vehicle was sold. Found alot of deteriorated rubber washers, but new bolts/hardware.
Ok. Good.
You said that one was completely rusted out. That's why I said to replace it.
Any how, that's great info that @2001LC
suggested.
I'd do that as it is probably the best method to see where it's leaking from.
 
Ok. Good.
You said that one was completely rusted out. That's why I said to replace it.
Any how, that's great info that @2001LC
suggested.
I'd do that as it is probably the best method to see where it's leaking from.
One hole was rusted to the point that the bolt wouldn't even thread into it, yet there was a clean new bolt just sitting in said hole.
 
Bolts may look good, but are they sealed. I've used 3M seam sealer, in/on threads/bolts

Pour/run water in rain channel around bolts/mounts. Do with vehicle front high, so water runs back one side at a time. Isolate so water going around specific areas.. Do windshield next, than rear hatch or in any order that works for you.

I use a 6mm guidable borescope, to look up under headliner. Helps isolate.

Additional: Pressurize cabin with blower, HVAC fan set to full speed, set outside air. Soap or glass cleaner bubbles, can be revealing.

View attachment 3523174


View attachment 3523175
View attachment 3523176
I used butyl tape and silicone to seal the bolts off the best I could, but may have to redo them.

I used this method + soapy water to find the 3rd brake light leak, but never thought of using a shop vac to increase cabin preasure (i was actually contemplating sealing off the exterior vents just below the rear side windows to help) I also like the aerosol window cleaner idea.

I pulled the windshield weather strips out a little bit on my lunch break and to my surprise, there are most definitely screws instead of rivets 😔 wondering if it's had another windshield repair by the last owner that was done incorrectly.
 
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Check the drains from your rocker panels. There are several narrow slits under the rockers that have a tendency of getting clogged, especially when applying undercoat, waxoil, etc. They are in the pinch weld running along the centre of the channel. A flat screwdriver is your friend.
 
Check the drains from your rocker panels. There are several narrow slits under the rockers that have a tendency of getting clogged, especially when applying undercoat, waxoil, etc. They are in the pinch weld running along the centre of the channel. A flat screwdriver is your friend.
I checked my sunroof drains and the front pinch weld drains. I still need to check the rear.
 
I used silicone to seal the 3rd brake light up really well on Tuesday. It rained lastnight, so I checked the rear hatch. It is just as soaked as before.. I don't get it. What can be Leaking this bad back there?
 
First I wanted to note. My shop vac motor, was in blower mode, not vacuum.

Based on what you've stated and pictures: My bet is your roof rack bolts.

Your side doors look aligned well, and you've not shown any pictures, indicating seal damaged. So I do not think side doors.

Your picture of read hatch wire & washer hose ports plugged. You did not note and seal issue or rear doors alignment issue. So I do not think rear hatch or gate leak.

Third brake light leaks are typically minor. Often seen as drip on inside of hatch glass, and sometimes some water on cargo floor directly below 3rd br light. You've sealed. It's not going to be a bad leak or get to side door area. So I don't think this your primary leak issues if even any.
 
First I wanted to note. My shop vac motor, was in blower mode, not vacuum.

Based on what you've stated and pictures: My bet is your roof rack bolts.

Your side doors look aligned well, and you've not shown any pictures, indicating seal damaged. So I do not think side doors.

Your picture of read hatch wire & washer hose ports plugged. You did not note and seal issue or rear doors alignment issue. So I do not think rear hatch or gate leak.

Third brake light leaks are typically minor. Often seen as drip on inside of hatch glass, and sometimes some water on cargo floor directly below 3rd br light. You've sealed. It's not going to be a bad leak or get to side door area. So I don't think this your primary leak issues if even any.
I assumed the shop vac was on blow instead of vacuum.
I'm going to pressurize the cabin this weekend and soap everywhere I can think of down, then go from there.
 
@CharltonWard
What is the condition of the cargo side windows seals?
You can add fender washer(s) between the electric motor and the body to pull the side vent window closer to the body. This may help to create a tighter seal there if the leak is from there.
I was wondering if either the far back window seals, or the little vents below them were the culprit of the leak. I plan on working on this tomorrow. I'll report back.
 
Keep in mind while pressurizing the cabin. The rear side windows wings, are a reverse seal. The vent at rear 1/4, back of wings. I believe is also a reverse seal. I say "believe" as I've not looked closely at one. But as I slam a door closed, I hear air vent there. These two vents, seem to easily open with small difference/increase in pressure. I've not tried this. But you could tape over vent grate, which may possible slow escaping air. I've also never tried to remove vent grate.

When I do get soap bubbles, indicating a leak. I then work to confirm leak point, by looking inside cabin. By either removing trim molding and or with my borescope. Which I've a 6mm flexible and 360 degree guidable snake camera, I can snake into areas. Very helpful, for those leaks hidden by headliner or other trim. The 6mm is thin enough. I can even snake down through drain hoses, like sunroof drains.
 
Those are the vents I was talking about earlier that I may tape over to maintain cabin pressure, last time I had the air on high to check the 3rd brake light leak, I could feel a ton of air pouring out of them.
I don't have a bore snake cam sadly.
 
Update: she's blowing more bubbles than a toddler at a birthday party
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There arent a ton of bubbles around the mid portion of the driver door like there are at the top and bottom, reason being is that the airflow coming through that area is so strong that it burst all of the bubbles. Its strong enough that I can feel it if I hold my hand up, and it immediately forces out any soapy liquid I attempt to spray in/around it. I'm assuming the door seal. Also, it seems that I have a small leak at the side molding that runs across the lower portion of the door?
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Looks like top corner of the door seal. Also a leak from the weather strip that presses against the rear passenger window? All 4 of these weather strips on my truck are distressed. The drivers door strip is pealing up above the door handle area.
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It looks like my rear seal may be the culprit? The section that seals to the hatch seems to be more wet than it should be, and this is the area that produced the most bubbles.
 
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Nice bubbles, what soap are you using?
Any accidents in history?
Just Dawn dishwashing liquid. About an ounce in a spray bottle mixed with warm water with the nozzle set between stream and spray.
No accident history.
What about these bubbles coming from the side molding?
I think the large amount of bubbles coming from the tail light are due to a bad taillight seal. The housings are not OEM, and I'm not even positive that they even have a seal. I'll have to take them out and see, but there is def air coming through the rear hatch seal.
 
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You've really created a very high pressure in cabin, more than I have. Keep in mind this is pushing outward on all seal. The seals are made more for neutral pressure IMO.

What I do not see is roof rack area. Presumably you saw now bubbles around roof racks mounts?

Leak at rear gate light seals, leaks into gate cavity. You'll find weep holes at bottom of gate.
Leak at rear 1/4 light seals, leaks into 1/4 body cavity.
Leaks around gate or hatch seal, can get into cavity. These would first get back edge of cargo carpet damp. Note: Gate and hatch, need a bit of force closing. To get them to seal well.
Leak at door molding or glass seal, leaks into door cavity. You'll find weep holes at bottom of door for these.
Leaks around side doors seal, can get into cabin. These would first get carpet damp by doors.

The LH "A" pillar bottom corner near windshield bubbles, are interesting. This is either a gap in glasses black ploy glue, or hole that should not be open.

I can't say I'm seeing anything, that would soak carpet along side doors.
 

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