Need help/advice on rear main seal (11 Viewers)

[Geezer Cruzzer]

When I bought Miss Scarlet in 2017 I had my mechanic replace the rear main seal. It failed again in 2021 and had it replaced. It's failed again. The first time around we lived in Colorado. So, the garage queen sat undriven from early November until early April. Now she lives in Arizona a sits from mid May until late September while we flee the heat. My mechanic here in AZ says my problem is all the time sitting lets the seal dry out and fail which makes sense to me.

Are all replacement seals the same or is there a best one? I just hate to keep dumping $1,100 into it every three or four years for a rear main seal. I've even thought about selling her but just hate to and the wife is having a meltdown when I mention it.

 

[cruisermatt]

are you using OEM seals?

 

[charliemeyer007]

You need to look for the speedy sleeve solution. I put a new toyota seal in my unit - yea it leaked just like my dad said it would. There are tiny groves wore on the sealing surface and it will never seal for long - speedy sleeve gives a new flat seal surface and will last a while. I have the rear main engine seal one need the one for the front inner axles.

I can (in the past) pull the engine/tranny/transfer in 3 hours by myself. Less than a day to pull it replace the seal and put it back - I don't make $1100 a day and can't afford to pay someone else that.

 

[Its me shaneus]

Not sure if rope seal was ever used on F or 2F. If so, I would consider for your use case. May need to have retaining pin in block or main cap to use.

They dont seal perfectly, but they dont just dry out and fail from setting either.

 

[TEakins]

Mine has been leaking for about 12 years. But i am okay with it.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Is this where you would see those drips?? I’m getting a few.

 

[3_puppies]

absolutely positive it is the rear main seal?
X2 on OEM seal

 

[Geezer Cruzzer]

I'm not sure if either replacement was OEM. Have not heard of speedy sleeve. Will check it out. Looks like I also have plug leak. They had a heck of a time finding the correct size.

 

[charliemeyer007]

The best plug gasket is a soft lead washer. Melt some pure lead (muzzleloader balls/bullet) in a big spoon from the thrift store/ yard sale with a propane torch. Never use that spoon for food!!!! Pour the molten lead on an old dry board/newspapers, you want disk as big as the flange on your plug and about 1/8 of inch thick. Center your plug on the disk and whack it with a hammer. Cut out the marked center so you have a form fitting crush washer that will last many cycles. Wash your hands well after handling lead, melt and cast outside, don't breath the fumes. Sheet lead will work if you have any.

SKF

www.skf.com

 

[rainingagain]

How many miles are on it? I don't know if this effects F/2F engines, but worn main bearings can drop the crank enough to eat rear main seals on many engines. Tractor motor, I know...probably not applicable.

 

[Augustiron]

+1 on the " are you sure it's the rear main seal?"

There is an oil galley pressed in welch plug on the back of the 2f block that is known to fail and send oil down to come out looking like a rear main seal leak.

Easy to overlook it if you don't know to look for it

 

[charliemeyer007]

UV oil dye, UV light, amber glasses and a borescope that works on your phone. $50 0r so. The have UV dye for coolant too in case you are looking at heater cores, water pumps - cross pipes....